2011 Deere 319d Track Loader Raccoon-Wiring

[dkeagle]

First time post, as I’ve not needed to post here before, but I’ve got a dilemma on my hands…a baby raccoon got into the cab of my 2011 319d (PIN: 1T0319DACB0196639) through the handle hole and died. Before he expired, it appears that he and his momma tore hell out of the cab interior and a lot of wiring throughout the machine. Since the main wiring harness alone is $3,300 from Deere, I decided to try to splice the wiring back together, since it looked like I could get to most of the critical stuff, and could tell from the labels on the wires what went together. There was really not much in the cab that was damaged, but below the cab in the area of the hydraulics had a lot of wiring damaged, as well as on the top side of the engine compartment in the back of the machine. I got everything I can see spliced, but am still having some issues:

The main problem is that the hydraulics for the boom and the bucket aren’t working right. It the pump engages, and the move slightly, but it’s like the parking break is still engaged. The wiring at the switch and parking break are fine to the EMU and appear to be unaffected.

The codes I’m getting are: 523693.03; 523694.03; 523694.12. I don’t have access to the codes, and I know there are some very helpful service techs that are on this forum. I’d rather not guess any further. If I have to bite the bullet and buy the wiring harness, I guess I could do that and might, but also want to make sure that it’s not something else. Any help is greatly appreciated

 

[mg2361]

Welcome to HEF dkeagle!

Might need that wiring harness.

523693.03 - Auxiliary Hydraulic Channel 1 Out of Range High.

523694.03 - Auxiliary Hydraulic Channel 2 Out of Range High.

523694.12 - Auxiliary Hydraulic Input Device Fault

None of these will affect normal operation, just the auxiliaries.

These are the only codes? If you scroll to codes in the monitor, any others?

 

[dkeagle]

Thanks MG! Those were the only codes in there, other than an Auxiliary Hydraulics Channel 2 Input Device Fault (which didn't seem pertinent). That seemed strange to me too, since those codes were there before all of this happened, so I knew I had auxiliary hydraulics issues that I needed to address. Machine starts and runs, and no other active codes that I could see.

The only other thing that I can think of that isn't electrical, is the bolt holding the boom release cable broke off, so the handle and cable is loose, but I can't move the handle/cable to pull it out, so I assume the raccoon couldn't either...would that being slightly pulled out cause something like this? I honestly can't tell you that it wasn't like that before the raccoon situation when the machine worked fine.

I checked all the solenoids on the hydraulic control valve, and they seem to be carrying the proper resistance. And if those failed, I assume that would throw a code. Unless something is wrong with the EMU?

I may just have to bite the bullet on the wiring harness, but I'd also like to be sure that will solve the problem before dropping $4k on wiring, since I'll want to do the hydraulic harness also, at a minimum in addition to the main wiring harness. And, I'll also have to tear the back half of the machine apart, too to get to the rest of the wiring.

I appreciate your thoughts!

 

[dkeagle]

I checked again this afternoon and the only codes showing are the same aux hydraulic codes. Cleared them, same codes showed back up. Wouldn’t it throw some other codes if it was a wiring issue?
There are a couple of connectors that were chewed loose and wrapped in a plastic bag under the cab, as if they weren’t previously used. One looks like the Aux port solenoid connections (but those two are there also already) and the other one looks different than any other one I’ve run across so far. It’s a 6-pin with a white, black, and red wire going into it. I couldn’t place it on the wiring diagram either by the coding on the wire.

Any other ideas? It acts like it wants to move the bucket and boom when I use the pedals, but they only move an inch or so on the cylinders.

Thanks!

 

[mg2361]

Yes, there would be codes with an electrical issue. All the lights on the instrument panel are out when seated, seat bar down, door closed and the PB released?

 

[dkeagle]

Quick update - I replaced the hydraulic control wiring harness, and the boom and bucket controls are working now. Looks like I either wired something up wrong in that harness, or had something connected poorly.

Still need to verify the auxiliary hydraulics, but we’re headed in the right direction.

On the back side of the machine, I spliced a wire to the reversing fan switch, and I think the hydraulic oil filter restriction switch. Not sure how I would check to see if those are working correctly.

I’m really confused as to why more error codes wouldn’t have been thrown in this situation - any insight? Thanks!

 

[dkeagle]

Sorry MG2361, guess I didn’t answer your last question…no lights when I started the machine, but also, I didn’t start the machine again until yesterday after I replaced the wiring harness, as the battery was shot from all of the starting to test and then not running the machine. Not sure the battery was that great when I purchased the machine and while I’ve owned it.

 

[mg2361]

I’m really confused as to why more error codes wouldn’t have been thrown in this situation - any insight?

Nope

Auxiliary codes most likely from a bad switch in the handle (you would have to purchase the handle, switch not sold separately), but make sure the wiring is sound first (from your raccoon damage). There should be a 5 volt reference, a ground, and two signal wires that send voltages in opposite directions to the EMU (monitor). For example, 2.5 volts in neutral, roll the switch in one direction and the voltage should increase in a signal wire, and decrease an equal amount in the other signal wire. Your code indicates they do not match equally.

 

[dkeagle]

Well, the saga continues. Now the electric Quik-tach doesn’t work, and I’m almost positive it did work after the raccoon incident. Replaced both relays, switch, and fuse, visually checked all wires and continuity from the switch to the relays, no sign of a problem. Checked the actuator with a separate battery and works fine. If I didn’t have problems with this skidloader I don’t think I’d have any problems…

 

[mg2361]

There are 2 fuses. Did you check them both (F7 and F13)?

 

[dkeagle]

I did not check F7, will check that one also. Thanks!

 

[dkeagle]

F7 checks out okay, too. Man, I’m stumped.

 

[dkeagle]

The only weird thing I get, is when the relays (new or old) are plugged in, the white power wires to the actuator have continuity between them, and to ground, like they are shorting to ground, but when the relays are removed, the wires have continuity to themselves only from where the relay plugs in. I assume that’s normal function with the relay?

 

[mg2361]

Was the actuator unplugged when you performed this test?

Let's take this one step at a time. With the actuator unplugged, operate the actuator. Do you have voltage to the actuator?

Check your messages. I sent you the quick-tach actuator schematic, if you don't already have it. It will show you why you have continuity between them.

 

[dkeagle]

Finally got a chance to test this, no voltage at the actuator while unplugged and operating the switch. Could both relays be faulty? Or something causing them to fail? Thanks!

 

[mg2361]

While your fuses may look good, does voltage pass through them?

Does the actuator switch have voltage and does the voltage pass through?

Make sure the G01 black wire at the starter ground is there, secure, clean and tight.

Could both relays be faulty?

Not likely. Your issue is basic. Bad fuse, bad switch, or bad wiring or connector. You are getting ahead of yourself. Just follow the steps I give you and we will solve this.

Check your messages for another attachment.

 

[Vetech63]

What kind of wrong could a person have done in their life to deserve a dead baby racoon inside their machine? OP.....I'm keeping an eye on you! LOL

 

[dkeagle]

What kind of wrong could a person have done in their life to deserve a dead baby racoon inside their machine? OP.....I'm keeping an eye on you! LOL

I deserve far worse than a dead baby raccoon and a PO’d mama…lol

 

[dkeagle]

I’ve checked the fuses with a meter and verified I have ground, but will look at that ground wire one more time, and maybe try to clean those connectors. Power to switch is non-existent, I already checked that, that’s why I was concerned about the relays. I don’t know how to check power to the relays with the machine running and the cab up. Not sure how to accomplish that. I have checked power at the starter motor connection and continuity in the wires with the cab up. I’ll keep at it…thanks!

 

[mg2361]

Power to switch is non-existent

Then your issue is between the F7 fuse and the switch. Check the X1 and X2 connectors at the top rear of the cab real good.