OFF
Senior Member
Racine part number for those coils - #493871
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The JLG 40F Boom Lift Dilemma
- Thread starter od1
- Start date
Grovecomm
Active Member
Hi Guys. You may remember my old 40F, at least I think that's what it is. I got it recently and the two rear pistons were seized with rust and the same two cylinder exhaust valve stems were seized. This was a result of rain/snow water entering view the exhaust pipe. I managed to free them up after several days of oil, trans fluid, WD-40 soaking, gentle taping, working them back and forth etc. I installed new head gaskets and much to my surprise it started.
It runs fine until it gets hot and then stops. When I start it cold, there are no crankcase breather fumes/smoke. After about 3 minutes, smoke starts pouring from the breather (oil fill cap) and about a minute later it seems to load up and quit. This is all at just above idle with no hydraulic loading.
I thought I was over all my major hurdles with the motor, but I guess not. This is a VH4D, mid 70's build. After it quits, it will not restart. The next day it starts fine and then has the same fault.
Someone please tell me this is won't cost me a bunch....
It runs fine until it gets hot and then stops. When I start it cold, there are no crankcase breather fumes/smoke. After about 3 minutes, smoke starts pouring from the breather (oil fill cap) and about a minute later it seems to load up and quit. This is all at just above idle with no hydraulic loading.
I thought I was over all my major hurdles with the motor, but I guess not. This is a VH4D, mid 70's build. After it quits, it will not restart. The next day it starts fine and then has the same fault.
Someone please tell me this is won't cost me a bunch....
RSIGuy
Well-Known Member
Grovecomm, I'm no engine guru but sounds like rings are shot. A good motor guy told me the reason it would blow a little oil through the breather is either rings or valves but most likely rings. Mine has a little blowby on high engine under a load like driving for extended periods. We didn't do a leak test because I'm sure it's one of those issues and I'm going to rebuild or replace next winter since everything else is nearly perfect. As for it quitting when hot I don't have much to offer, a guess would be so much oil is sliding by the rings it gets loaded up and stalls or maybe a bad coil. I'm sure someone with more motor skills will shed more light on it.
OFF
Senior Member
The bad rings alone shouldn't kill it. There must be something else going on. Is it running out of fuel maybe? That takes about 3 to 4 minutes at an idle. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge you could check with? Do you have access to one of those infra-red heat sensor guns? If so, check what temperature the cylinders are getting to when it shuts down. Does there seem to be lots of air flow around the cylinders? Depending on how badly those rings are siezed in the pistons, they could loosen up in time (some additives might help too). It wouldn't be that big a deal to pull the head again, drop the pan and pop out a piston or two either.
terasque
Member
Thanks again. Parts are on order. I can't believe noone could cross reference this after calling 3 or 4 jlg service companies. The only manual I have is one I got from here so I gave them the numbers from that. Again thanks all I will keep you guys updated if it starts working properly. I will see if I can get you guys some pics of what I got pulled into on this.
kingsley
New Member
hey plaese help lol i cant read load charts
why is there a mm number beside the weight at max reach??
i dont get it
why is there a mm number beside the weight at max reach??
i dont get it
Hi to all, just registered after finding this site last night. Found a lot of info after reading all 55 pages till 2.30 this morning. I am repairing a 40fc that is a basket case. I have never seen a thread go this long for so long. Great site.
RSIGuy
Well-Known Member
I told you I'm not an Engine Guru :notworthy. I did have a problem with mine like that a few years and it was the fuel pump combined with a bad line and clogged filter.
I wish you were closer, sounds like you could cure my last ailment with the blowby.
I wish you were closer, sounds like you could cure my last ailment with the blowby.
My one friend within the communications trade. i exploit miles of cable. If you ever would like cable talk over with ME initial. The cable he's victimisation on the 40F is OLFLEX AUTO-116 awg Hi-Flex 600 potential unit ,25 numbered conductor. half dozen greenbacks a foot. It's rated T1 that is that the rating for receptacle usages. He additionally|also can|can even|may also|may** get SAB cable half # 07761625 also sixteen awg twenty five numbered T1. it is a very little niecer and smaller in Defense Intelligence Agency. nine greenbacks a foot. SAB sells it for nineteen greenbacks a foot.
OFF
Senior Member
I've never worked on or used a JLG electric manlift so I can't say. I'm sure Willie59 or VoodooMojo could offer and opinion an opinion though
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RSIGuy
Well-Known Member
OFF, I have a dilemma. The second set of high pressure seals are leaking on one of the drive motors. I have been lead to believe that the tolerances may be off enough that there is extra blow by thus weakening the seals very quickly. Any experience with that situation? I hate to just start ordering shafts and who knows what else but since JLG doesn't support them any longer running low on options.
OFF
Senior Member
aside from wear, the only other thing that will cause seal failure on a drive motor is a plugged case drain hose. You should have 4 hoses going to each motor - 2 large ones and 2 small ones. 1 small hose goes to the brake, the other small hose is your case drain. Make sure your case drain hose goes somewhere and is not capped/plugged/crimped. It should be free flowing back to the hydraulic tank. If you don't find a problem there, any hydraulics shop should be able to fix your motor. Find out what brand it is and check for dealers in your area.
RSIGuy
Well-Known Member
I have a loop for you. Mine has 4 lines on the left but 3 on the right motor, I'm reasonably sure they're all good though. Is it one or both of the shafts most likely that would have worn down allowing blow-by. If so, how will anyone know what original specs are. Is that info out there someplace? I will look at the tag and see if I can find someone alive who still makes that brand.
OFF
Senior Member
both motors should have 4 lines. Is it the right motor that is leaking all the time by chance? In the maintenace manual, page 2-24, check out figure 2-18 Drive Circuit Hydraulic Diagram. It shows both motors with case drain lines "T"'d into one hose that runs through the swivel and back to the tank.
pyro-1955
Active Member
I just acquired a JLG 40' lift, I do not know exactly what model as it was repainted at some time to the newer off White / Orange paint scheme from it's original Yellow. It has the Wisconsin 4 cyl, is dual fuel, 2 WD and has the Racine valves, I think it's a 40F, however I can not find any ID plates on the machine that tell me for sure, Should there be one, and if so, where do I look? Thanks, Pyro
od1
Well-Known Member
Hey Pyro
There are no ID plates but there is a serial number located on the main frame just below the the turret. It isn't deep in the metal and could be filled with paint. It's on the vertical part just below the swing gear. Post a picture of the rig. and another of the engine compartment.
There are no ID plates but there is a serial number located on the main frame just below the the turret. It isn't deep in the metal and could be filled with paint. It's on the vertical part just below the swing gear. Post a picture of the rig. and another of the engine compartment.
od1
Well-Known Member
Hey Torquer
Great comment man. You can thank JLG for that. I repeatedly tried getting help from JLG and they just left me on hold or told me someone would be getting back to me. They just do not care about these older units at all.
Great comment man. You can thank JLG for that. I repeatedly tried getting help from JLG and they just left me on hold or told me someone would be getting back to me. They just do not care about these older units at all.
pyro-1955
Active Member
OFF
Senior Member
Welcome!
Looks like a newer model alright. Should have a serial number plate on the front face of the big square tube that the basket controls mount to. Under the control box, just about where the basket hangs on the hooks. That's the original location. Serial number, rated capacity and the basket size.