Rehabing Case 855D; tracks are very noisy; need some advice please

[viking1]

You will need to collapse your track adjustment, then raise the crawler to where the roller can be withdrawn from the outside. Many mechanics will use a section of plywood to support the rollers coming out and going in to keep from fighting the rail. Good place to mash blacken a fingernail or two and cut one's fingers to shreds if the rails are wear sharpened. Break the bolts loose but not removed for that roller before you jack it up unless you have a healthy impact wrench.

Thx D; real good advice!! Not looking fwd to the roller change!

 

[viking1]

Yair . . . viking1. You need more room to change that roller than you might imagine and the roller change will be much easier after you get the machine mobile after repairing your rams.

As Dmiller mentions, collapse your track adjustment by removing the grease fitting and bump the idler back against a stump or baulk of timber.

Next, move the machine to a nice level place and jack the front way up with the bucket. You will need a heavy baulk, maybe a chain sawed section of tree trunk (say) about one foot in diameter and get it under the track at about centre point on the track frame . . . it will probably be a little awkward as the slack track will most likely be drooping down.

Once you get it under lift the bucket and, if you have the baulk in the right position the tractor will teeter-totter forward and the sprocket will lift up off the ground, you mightn't get it right first time but you'll soon get the idea.

Cut another baulk and pack beneath the sprocket then lift the front of the tractor with the bucket remove the teeter-totter baulk and use it to pack beneath the idler. Lower the machine, bucket down hard, lock brakes and chock the other track and check that every thing is safe.

If everything went right there should be heaps of clearance. Once you get the other roller off it will probably pay to run a tap into the holes and wire brush the bolts so they run in nice and free . . . don't forget the Never-sieze!

I had a squat two stage mechanical jack for lifting rollers but with a little tractor like that you could do it with an off-sider and a bar. I have never used the plywood but it sounds like a good idea.

Be careful and work safe.

Cheers.

That teeter-totter's a great idea Scrubs (although I NEVER would have thought of this machine as "little", LOL!!). I think I'll be using railroad ties (all that I have), or maybe even sections of heavy steel pipe (although that idea scares me a little)....

 

[viking1]

Bucket cylinders resealed & installed w/no leaks!! Taking the rod bolt off was easy once I figured out I HAD to melt the loctite with the torch. Pressure washing all the fluid and last bits of gunk off tommorrow, then I'll start painting. Looking fwd to it....

 

[viking1]

90% of painting completed today. Went through one gallon of Case power tan, and it was really easy and turned out great. New decals are on the way, and when this coat is completely cured in 48 hours I'll move the machine to get the bottom of the tracks/etc, as well as lift the bucket to get the areas I couldnt get to. Really makes the machine look like new.......

 

[mitch504]

Man, I was hoping you'd have some power tan left so you could come paint my 580sK.

It really looks good.

 

[viking1]

Man, I was hoping you'd have some power tan left so you could come paint my 580sK.

It really looks good.

Thx Mitch. BTW if I can repaint a machine, I guarantee you can.... Really easy, that Case paint goes on like butter....

 

[td25c]

Well done viking1 . Paint looks great!

 

[viking1]

Well done viking1 . Paint looks great!

Thx, TD. Sun came out again here in AZ, so I'll move the machine and lift the bucket later to get the spots I missed. Paint curing as we type....

 

[viking1]

Amazing how many missed spots you dont see until you raise the bucket. Final step will be to move machine till the unpainted portion of the running gear is exposed and ready to paint.

 

[Dickjr.]

Does this machine have the 6 cylinder cummins?

 

[viking1]

Does this machine have the 6 cylinder cummins?

Case 6T-590, I believe.....

 

[mitch504]

6t-590 Case = Cummins B 5.9 turbo.

That engine was designed by Case, and they made a deal with Cummins to build it.

4-390 = B 3.9
4T-390 = B 3.9 turbo
6-590 = B 5.9

 

[viking1]

6t-590 Case = Cummins B 5.9 turbo.

That engine was designed by Case, and they made a deal with Cummins to build it.

4-390 = B 3.9
4T-390 = B 3.9 turbo
6-590 = B 5.9

Thx Sir; good to know. According to my manual I had options for either the turbo, or naturally aspirated (I got the latter)....

 

[mitch504]

Ok, if it's naturally aspirated it's a 6-590, not a 6T-590.

 

[viking1]

First day using machine since rehab. I used it to drag my next project into driveway; an M56 driveline swap . Case decals arriving today, should finish it off nice. Sure is tough to see all that fresh paint wear off the grousers within 10' of travel though....

 

[viking1]

Decals finished it off nicely.......

 

[viking1]

I'm about to try and break the roller bolts loose Friday or Saturday (got a lil sidetracked). I will heat the heck out of them beforehand, but have been told they most likely will snap off. Anyone out there have any other advice for breaking them free?

 

[Scrub Puller]

Yair . . . viking1. It could be an advantage to heat the bolt-heads cherry red and let them cool out overnight. This expands the bolt and with a bit of luck it may break the rust seal, a good pounding on the accessible bolt flats with a drift and four pound hammer would maybe help as well.

I have found that one of the problems with roller/rock-guard bolts on the older machines is that they screw through open ended holes tapped into blocks welded inside the track frame. The exposed threads inside get rusted and corroded and you can often pop them but the threads gall up and lock the bolt after a few turns and that's when the darn things break.

Any sort of lubrication you can squirt up in there is going to help.

When reinstalling I used to always measure the bolts and cut them one thread short of protruding with plenty of Neversieze they will be much easier next time.

However if your machine has lived in the desert you may be pleasantly surprised and find you have no problem . . . if you are doing battle with a bolt heat an adjacent strip on the track frame and try and keep the bolt as cool as possible.

Cheers.

 

[viking1]

Yair . . . viking1. It could be an advantage to heat the bolt-heads cherry red and let them cool out overnight. This expands the bolt and with a bit of luck it may break the rust seal, a good pounding on the accessible bolt flats with a drift and four pound hammer would maybe help as well.

I have found that one of the problems with roller/rock-guard bolts on the older machines is that they screw through open ended holes tapped into blocks welded inside the track frame. The exposed threads inside get rusted and corroded and you can often pop them but the threads gall up and lock the bolt after a few turns and that's when the darn things break.

Any sort of lubrication you can squirt up in there is going to help.

When reinstalling I used to always measure the bolts and cut them one thread short of protruding with plenty of Neversieze they will be much easier next time.

However if your machine has lived in the desert you may be pleasantly surprised and find you have no problem . . . if you are doing battle with a bolt heat an adjacent strip on the track frame and try and keep the bolt as cool as possible.

Cheers.

Thx for all that great advice, Scrubs. I will follow it to the letter, and hope for the best. Still no idea how I am going to get enough torque with my bad shoulder on those bolts. Its my understanding they are torqued to 2300 ft lbs (ouch).........

 

[Birken Vogt]

Yair . . . viking1. It could be an advantage to heat the bolt-heads cherry red and let them cool out overnight. This expands the bolt and with a bit of luck it may break the rust seal, a good pounding on the accessible bolt flats with a drift and four pound hammer would maybe help as well.

Sometimes it helps to shoot them with your penetrating oil of choice while they are still red hot also. (They usually won't catch fire) Some people like candle wax also. Something about the cooling effect pulling more lube into the spaces. It seems to have worked for me a couple of times.