12 or 24 volt system on Lull 644

12 or 24 volt system on Lull 644

Look at how the batteries are wired.

Anything is possible but I've never seen a 24V Lull 644 myself

"Look at how the batteries are wired."
The machine had no batteries when I bought it, did have two small battery cables to use in a parallel setup. put new batteries in but it was cranking slowly.

I checked the specs on 644 HIghlander, the 644B, the 644C, and the 644E and they're all 12V. I've never seen a Lull that's 24V from the factory

Thanks. wasn't sure as it was cranking slowly on 12v.

Might not be easy to see, but most alternators have specs stamped on them, generally on the frame just below the bolt ear for the top flange, that will say 12 or 24V. Starters sometimes also have tags on them to note voltage, then there's the gauges in the dash. Also the various solenoid coils for the hydraulics, they typically have a tag on them that notes the voltage. And no, none of these are easy to see and require some looking. As for slow cranking if it is 12V, possibly weak starter, and for sure needs substantial battery cables, like 2/0, as well as good hot group 31 batteries if it has the Deere engine in it.

Very helpful. Thanks

BTW, it has a Deere engine.

Several other things can factor in here. I don't know what series 644 you have, but Deere 4 cyl diesels, I've never known them to crank particularly fast, whether it's an old 4239 or a newer 4045T. We have a 10K Genie forklift with a 4045T, original design by Genie is the engine is at the year and the single group 31 battery is about mid frame on the right side. Not enough room in the box for another battery, and they used 2/0 cable, but that's about 10 ft of cable, it never cranks fast, and in winter, forget it. I've replace starters, replaced the battery, made sure the cable was good with good ground, still hard cranking in winter. One day I had enough of that machine, built another battery box closer to the engine, added a second group 31 battery with a shorter 2/0 cable to the starter. Now with those two batteries it cranks good enough to start. Another thing that can cause slow cranking, I'm not familiar with the Lull 644, but some machine hydraulic systems are designed to have a high stand by pressure for the pump. The Genie 844 is like that, as soon as you crank it starts building pump pressure, which labors the starter. On that machine Genie fitted a solenoid valve to de-stroke the pump, simply mash a push button on the dash while you're cranking to start the engine, once started you release the button and it engages and loads the pump. I don't know if your 644 has something like that, might want to check.

It may have had a big 4D battery and they put 2 smaller batteries in it. The starter may be dragging as well. Also, Be sure to check for corroded battery cables. They'll be corroded up inside the cable and it won't crank well. That can take the starter out. A lot of these old engines are tired and don't have the compression they used to have, so if it's cold where you are and there's power available put a block heater in it. I did that to a couple of them we run. It'll crank in the morning. Good luck

tractormech said:

...so if it's cold where you are and there's power available put a block heater in it. I did that to a couple of them we run. It'll crank in the morning.

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Absolutely, if it doesn't already have one. Every Deere engine I've worked on in construction machines either has a coolant heater or it can be fitted, big 1 1/4" hex plug on the side of the head, you can get the heater kit from Deere and possibly even aftermarket.

Changed battery cables and the starter sounds rough. Anyone have a 2 hole starter for this Lull?

Found a starter. NOW I need an injection pump, nothing coming out when we crank it over. Anyone have one?

Before you condemn the pump- is the lift pump sending fuel to the injection pump? Is there power going to the shutoff solenoid? Turn the key on and see if there's power there at the solenoid. Take the power wire loose and touch it to the terminal and see if you hear it operate or touch it and see if you feel a click. Those Deere engines have those rubber grommets on the fuel lines and they can suck air when they get old or if they've been taken loose and reused. Make sure the filter housing isn't cracked or eroded. You can hook up a 12 volt fuel pump temporarily to push fuel into the system just to be sure there's fuel there. And ckeck those battery cables for corrosion. I've seen more than one starter taken out by bad cables.

We hooked up a 12 v pump, pushed right thur the lift pump and we have 12v at the solenoid, loosed the input line and had fuel pouring out. loosened the lines at the injectors-nothing. did not feel or listen for the click, didn't think of that.

Battery cables all replaced as well.

scrapman1077 said:

NOW I need an injection pump, nothing coming out when we crank it over. Anyone have one?

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scrapman1077 said:

We hooked up a 12 v pump, pushed right thur the lift pump and we have 12v at the solenoid, loosed the input line and had fuel pouring out. loosened the lines at the injectors-nothing. did not feel or listen for the click, didn't think of that.

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There is no “ one size fits all” injection pump.
Post a pic of the injection pump and the pump model /serial tag.
The shut solenoid MAY be available separately.

I will ASAP, the Lull is about an hour away.

Those pumps can be stubborn to prime. If you hear/feel the click, loosen the injector lines You can get a spray bottle with some gas and take the outer air filter out. Get someone to hold the accelerator to the floor -crank it over and spray a LITTLE gas in it. If it fires mist JUST ENOUGH gas in it to keep it running. See if it starts squirting fuel. If so, tighten the lines and see if it cranks on it's own. It'll stumble a bit until it works the air out of the lines. You can always mistna little gas in it to get it fired up again if need be. Good luck with it.