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CAT 312 Water Temperature Sensor

Pepe

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May 31, 2012
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Just wondering if anyone has had a faulty water temp sensor & if faulty would this cause the guage to go up & the buzzer go off after 1/2 hour of running. Coolant is OK on inspection, thermostat fine & coolant not overflowing to the holding tank?? any thoughts.
 

Nige

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Just wondering if anyone has had a faulty water temp sensor & if faulty would this cause the guage to go up & the buzzer go off after 1/2 hour of running. Coolant is OK on inspection, thermostat fine & coolant not overflowing to the holding tank?? any thoughts.
Highly unlikely to be the gauge or sensor if it takes that long to max out.
Try using an infra-red heat gun and when the buzzer is going off shoot the temperature of the hose from the thermostat housing to the radiator and the hose back from the radiator to the engine.
Also please post a Serial Number. It mkaes it easier to find information.
 

Pepe

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Thanks Nige. I will buy a infra-red heat gun & check. Serial No: 8JR01832
 

Pepe

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Highly unlikely to be the gauge or sensor if it takes that long to max out.
Try using an infra-red heat gun and when the buzzer is going off shoot the temperature of the hose from the thermostat housing to the radiator and the hose back from the radiator to the engine.
Also please post a Serial Number. It mkaes it easier to find information.
Hello Nige I put the infra red gun on my CAT 312. After half an hour running. Readings 1/. Thermo to Radiator 91 F- 96F 2/. Back to engine hose: 113-107 F. In 1 hour reading was 1/. 32-34 C & Back to pump 43C...... The Guage stayed just under 1/2 level. Im wondering what have I done?? as not overheating after an hour running......I will need to run it longer to see id any changes I guess
 

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Nige

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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
After half an hour running. Readings 1/. Thermo to Radiator 91 F- 96F 2/. Back to engine hose: 113-107 F.

In 1 hour reading was 1/. 32-34 C & Back to pump 43C
I’m sorry those numbers make no sense. With a measured temperature on the return line from the radiator to the engine HIGHER than from the engine to the radiator that would indicate the radiator putting heat into the coolant not taking it out.
 

Pepe

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I’m sorry those numbers make no sense. With a measured temperature on the return line from the radiator to the engine HIGHER than from the engine to the radiator that would indicate the radiator putting heat into the coolant not taking it out.
Thanks. My next move will be clean radiator & oil cooler in front as hard to get the bottom in between. Fan OK & Belts. Can you tell me is there any pressure when I disconnect the oil cooler or can I just unbolt & catch oil? as have no manual.
 

Nige

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My next move will be clean radiator & oil cooler in front as hard to get the bottom in between.
Being made up of so many indicivual elements those cooling packs are impossible to clean when installed. You need the whole thing on the ground and disassembled before you attempt to start cleaning otherwise you are wasting your time.

Did you carefully read my comments above in reference to your temperature readings.?
I will repeat, they make no sense because at face value they show that the radiator putting heat INTO the coolant instead of taking it out, which by all the known laws of physics is impossible.
 

Pepe

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Being made up of so many indicivual elements those cooling packs are impossible to clean when installed. You need the whole thing on the ground and disassembled before you attempt to start cleaning otherwise you are wasting your time.

Did you carefully read my comments above in reference to your temperature readings.?
I will repeat, they make no sense because at face value they show that the radiator putting heat INTO the coolant instead of taking it out, which by all the known laws of physics is impossible.
Yes I understand the cooling in & out not good. Ok will take both out.
 

Nige

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Yes I understand the cooling in & out not good.
It's not just that. The temperature of the outlet is higher than the temperature of the inlet. That ought to be physically impossible.

I thought that maybe you had somehow juxtaposed the two sets of readings and put "inlet" where you meant "outlet" and vice versa. To be clear the inlet to the radiator is the hose from the temperature regulator (thermostat) housing shown by the red arrow and the outlet is the hose from the bottom of the radiator to the water pump shown by the blue arrow. This illustration is from the side looking backwards from the front of the machine.

After the engine has warmed up the red hose should always be significantly hotter than the blue hose.

1715894340294.png
 

Pepe

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It's not just that. The temperature of the outlet is higher than the temperature of the inlet. That ought to be physically impossible.

I thought that maybe you had somehow juxtaposed the two sets of readings and put "inlet" where you meant "outlet" and vice versa. To be clear the inlet to the radiator is the hose from the temperature regulator (thermostat) housing shown by the red arrow and the outlet is the hose from the bottom of the radiator to the water pump shown by the blue arrow. This illustration is from the side looking backwards from the front of the machine.

After the engine has warmed up the red hose should always be significantly hotter than the blue hose.

View attachment 312387
Thank you very much for your time & effort assisting me. No I got the Lazer readings right. I talked to another old farmer friend whose an ex marine engineer about it as he has an old Kato that still runs after many years. As we get starlings nesting in the engine bays [the cause of many ex fires in NZ] the bottom portion of both radiator/cooler will get clogged up. He told me to do a simple test --clip a sheet of paper between the 2. Lower down all over the radiator to see if blowing or sucking. Its wet here so have to wait a few days until we get better weather....
 

Pepe

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Attached the R&I instructions for the oil cooler and radiator.
Special thanks to you again Nige .... makes it so much easier when you get experts like yourself helping a 74 yr old who can pass on these things. In my town we had real good bush mechanics but sad to say those times have changed with the computer age. I'll check back when I get working on it.
 

Pepe

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Messages
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Location
New Zealand
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Retired
Thank you very much for your time & effort assisting me. No I got the Lazer readings right. I talked to another old farmer friend whose an ex marine engineer about it as he has an old Kato that still runs after many years. As we get starlings nesting in the engine bays [the cause of many ex fires in NZ] the bottom portion of both radiator/cooler will get clogged up. He told me to do a simple test --clip a sheet of paper between the 2. Lower down all over the radiator to see if blowing or sucking. Its wet here so have to wait a few days until we get better weather....
It's not just that. The temperature of the outlet is higher than the temperature of the inlet. That ought to be physically impossible.

I thought that maybe you had somehow juxtaposed the two sets of readings and put "inlet" where you meant "outlet" and vice versa. To be clear the inlet to the radiator is the hose from the temperature regulator (thermostat) housing shown by the red arrow and the outlet is the hose from the bottom of the radiator to the water pump shown by the blue arrow. This illustration is from the side looking backwards from the front of the machine.

After the engine has warmed up the red hose should always be significantly hotter than the blue hose.

View attachment 312387
Stupid me: I used the lazer higher up on the bottom hose? Lower down after 15 minutes running it read [BLUE] 18 C & top hose [RED] 23 C....Ran air thru cooler & radiator but seems to be sucking if I put paper on the outer oil cooler side. Both sides insulated & under the cooler? We will be taking both rad/cooler out..
 

Pepe

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Messages
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Thank you very much for your time & effort assisting me. My Lazer readings wrong. I talked to another old farmer friend whose an ex marine engineer about it as he has an old Kato that still runs after many years. As we get starlings nesting in the engine bays [the cause of many ex fires in NZ] the bottom portion of both radiator/cooler will get clogged up. He told me to do a simple test --clip a sheet of paper between the 2-not good as sucked into radiator & also on outer cooler side.
 

Nige

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Stupid me: I used the lazer higher up on the bottom hose? Lower down after 15 minutes running it read [BLUE] 18 C & top hose [RED] 23 C....Ran air thru cooler & radiator but seems to be sucking if I put paper on the outer oil cooler side. Both sides insulated & under the cooler? We will be taking both rad/cooler out..
OK, so you at least confirmed that the laws of physics are safe for the time being. Let us know what you find when you disassemble the cooling package - post photos.
 

Pepe

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OK, so you at least confirmed that the laws of physics are safe for the time being. Let us know what you find when you disassemble the cooling package - post photos.
1/. Cleaned fins on both radiator & cooler. 2/. Foam baffle missing on one side--installed new one. 3/. No foam baffle on engine hood-missing? but baffle on bottom fine 4/. Ran CAT for 2 hours working it--- temp stayed normal & read 41C top & bottom hose 38C. Temp Guage reading stayed under 1/2. [ If the temp went to red I would have put the lazer by the alarm senser?] .....I read missing foam baffles do cause overheating & didnt even know there was a baffle there......Ok for now. NZ CAT dealer wanted $390 for a top baffle so made one? Thank you for the help Nige.
 

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Pepe

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That's far too cold for 2 hours running. It should have been pretty well up to normal operating temperature (85+ DegC) after that amount of time, especially if you were working it.
Does it have a temperature regulator (aka thermostat) fitted.?
Ok back to the drawing board thank you. Will run it again end of next week. Thermostat OK & tested. We only ran it on 3 clicks -- ??? not hard work... will get back
 

Mobiltech

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When you say it stayed under half on the gauge it makes me think your laser readings are low.
If it was part way up the gauge it must be more than 41c
 
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