I rarely have to use the brake since the machine stops automatically when taking my foot off the pedal (like a lawnmower does). However, that's only when it's used on flat terrain. Tt's not a positive stop, so it will try to roll on an incline due to the weight of the machine. As far as the shifting, make sure the machine is on level ground when changing gear. That may be the only reason you have trouble shifting between gears. Tapping on the foot pedal forward or reverse as you try shifting may help too. I can't think of any other reason it could be.Yeah, I will be going through and greasing everything (including all linkages that I can gain access to) and then do all fluid changes. After that, I'll use it a while, listen to what she's telling me she needs and go from there. My machine also has the hand brake, but I need to take a look at it since it isn't holding, but I can't imagine it needs to much repair, perhaps just some adjusting. Mine also wants to "creep" juuuust a tiny bit, (like an inch a second at low-mid idle) but I'm hoping cleaning up the pedal linkages and the pedal shaft will help it out (fingers crossed!) I'm also noticing that is has a hard time shifting between 1, 2 and N. These are my initial findings having just got it, and driven it for 15 minutes collectively. I've been stuck at work just chomping at the bit to explore this thing in further detail!
Future plans will be to convert it to accept any Bobcat Quick Tach attachment, and also run remote/aux hydraulics/electrical up front. Also, I will check my axels to see if there is a date on them as well.
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1989 Prime-mover or John Deere LD50
- Thread starter Sandhills-elect
- Start date
bgdumas
Member
Hey I have a story on a leak out the front. My machine had the same problem.The guy I purchased it from did and it's leaking again. The guys at the shop said with motors that small when they leak out the shaft and it has been replaced that there is to much play so it's better to just get a new one. Just trying to find a pump that would work on this machine since it is difficult to find. Those guys are having a tough time finding one too...
The seal is not a metal clad seal like most other seals.
The first time I pulled it the front input has a big snap ring holding an aluminum (don't know what to call it).
Anyway the snap ring is a bitch. Now there are 2 brass bushing like things.
There is a thrust washer that has 3 or 4 little springs and all other seals are Orings.
Enough of all of that. Here's my story. Really hard to find that setup. Found it finally but, it was 150.00 to ship it.
Now once I put the hydrostat back in a leaked emediately. So out again and cussed for two months.
All the literature out there but only one part assembly defined it as a static seal.
Think about that. The second time putting it back in after 5 gallons of fluid I started it up. Unbelievable no leak. My conclusion is that the static is key to sealing it up.
I know I'm still scratching my head.
So there's a thought for anyone with this issue.
By the way my leak was actually a hose that ran under the bell housing.
bgdumas
Member
You are so correct. My monster was an oil and debri mess. A 1989 and who knows how long it has leaked. I did many power washes and had a heck of a time getting into those blind spots. I even had the luxury of replacing 2 hoses that went under to lower bell housing. My next delima was which hose went where on the hydrostat. Yeah I marked them but I ignored replacing them right away due to getting hoses made and being lazy. Have diagrams but just not sure which goes where. I even took pics before removing them. Now that's funny right there. What made me think I could use those to help? Anyway thanks for the response and I will pass on if I got those hoses right.Those hose leaks can sometimes make it appear something else is leaking. That's why it's important to pressure wash everything so the true source of the leak can be found.