259D conversion to mechanical bucket coupler?

[Traut811]

Hi all. This is on a 2017 259D CTL, SN FTL11539.

The electric quick coupler went out 3 times on the PO, so he gave up and gutted the motor/wires to the loader arm. You now use a 3/8" ratchet to drop the bucket/change tools and it's rather inconvenient. Before I spend the money on the CAT hydraulic quick coupler conversion, I'm wondering if anyone with a "D" series had converted from electric to the old flip lever mechanical style, which I would be fine with. If so, do all components have to be sourced individually, or what all was entailed to do this?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Tyler d4c]

Probably just need to buy the levers.

Buy the hydraulic set up you'll get sick of the levers

 

[Nige]

If so, do all components have to be sourced individually?

Unfortunately yes they do, unless you can find a manual coupler on a machine that is being broken for parts.

As Tyler said above, you can also potentially go to a hydraulic QC. There is a retrofit kit for that.

 

[Tyler d4c]

I installed the hydraulic kit on my machine about 2 months ago total cost of parts was about 1800. Just for reference

 

[Mbar]

I switched a customers over a few years ago Order the parts and install. Back to work in no time.

 

[92U 3406]

That CAT electric quick coupler actuator is nothing but a massive pile of **** IMO.

I'd go hydraulic if its in the budget.

 

[Traut811]

Thanks for the replies everyone.
I am wanting to try out one of the new 255s so don't know if it's worth investing money into the hydraulic unit just to sell it this spring. As mentioned I'm just using a ratchet so feel it may just be a lever and hardware purchase, but didn't know if anyone could confirm.

I'll see if I can print out parts diagrams side by side and see what all is different. Thanks again for the help.

 

[Traut811]

Quick update for if it helps anyone in the future.

I ended up making a couple levers. I used the original rotating plate that usually connects to the motor end (or hydraulic cylinder) and just bolted the levers to it using 2 existing holes. It works well with positive lockup and proper disengagement. I used some 3/8" x 3" mild steel and they were about 12in long. The levers were clamped together so profiles matched exact. I was too impatient to wait for the waterjet/plasma so cut out a cardboard template, transferred and cut by hand. Bent the angle for attachment clearance, smoothed, blasted, and painted. They work well with positive lockup and disengage properly.

 

[UBPS10900]

That CAT electric quick coupler actuator is nothing but a massive pile of **** IMO.

I'd go hydraulic if its in the budget.

What models and series have you had trouble with?

 

[Acoals]

That's a nice fabrication job. I am converting my 289D to factory manual levers for the same reason. That machine spends 95% of the time with a tooth bucket on, I really don't want to dump 2k into the hydro conversion.

When I first started in skid loaders power quick attaches didn't exist anyway . . .

 

[92U 3406]

What models and series have you had trouble with?

The actuator itself is just a poor design. Unless they've updated the design since I left the Caterpillar world they're just plastic gears inside it. They don't hold up well if the external linkages aren't kept clean and lubed so they move freely.

Plastic has no place outside the cab on construction machinery IMO.

 

[Traut811]

That's a nice fabrication job. I am converting my 289D to factory manual levers for the same reason. That machine spends 95% of the time with a tooth bucket on, I really don't want to dump 2k into the hydro conversion.

When I first started in skid loaders power quick attaches didn't exist anyway . . .

Thank you. I will be selling the machine soon most likely anyway so didn't want to stick a lot of money into something like that just to potentially not get my money back out of that portion.

I was really concerned something in the mechanics would be different enough to not let it work since several part numbers were different, but I did not change a thing to make it work, only made the levers and bolted to existing holes.

 

[Grant Keehn]

I just had a similar problem arise on my 2016 CAT 287D. The locking pins are kept well-greased, however, little by little, the electric motor began to have trouble initially extending the pins. It seems like they are retracting a tad too far and end up binding. At first, if I tapped it with a hammer, I could get it to activate. Now, however, the only way it will lock is if I manually advance them a bit, then hit the switch. Other than in the full open position, everything seems to work fine. I have even disassembled the motor and the gears look fine? After reading this thread, I'm leery about replacing the motor only to find out it won't solve the problem, or like one fellow discovered, only to replace one motor assembly after the other. Anyone have a quick, cheap idea, or should I just take the advice here and put on a hydraulic retro-fit? And if hydraulic is the way to go, is it a CAT product or an after market? In other words, what's a good one and where would I look to find it. Thanks as always for the help.

 

[Traut811]

If you check out my replies above it would be the cheapest solution you could come up with. I looked into the cat hydraulic coupler and think for the amount you need (and what you're getting) it would be the way to go if you are against manual.

I'm extremely pleased with how my levers turned out and function. I change attachments like underwear and absolutely no issues or complaints in the last 10hrs or so of run time

 

[HardRockNM]

What models and series have you had trouble with?

236D and 242D in my case. These were cleanup machines on mines, and saw frequent attachment swaps. Frozen mud seemed to accelerate the electric coupler failures.