• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

503L front spindle problems looking for suggestions

oarwhat

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2009
Messages
843
Location
buffalo,n.y.
Seems to me the roll pin will stop the washers from turning. Which will stop the bolt from loosening. You don't need a special bolt just another washer without a hole to keep the pin in place.
 

goldhunter_2

Active Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2024
Messages
37
Location
TN
Seems to me the roll pin will stop the washers from turning. Which will stop the bolt from loosening. You don't need a special bolt just another washer without a hole to keep the pin in place.
that is possible , I think the pin should stop the washers form turning and the cover plate I am thinking will hold the pin in place, however, at this point if there is a bolt out there with the right size head that pin can also hold bolt form backing off I would really like to just get it and be done with it so I can use the grader with out worrying about it anymore.
 

Crux

New Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2023
Messages
4
Location
Tennessee
that is possible , I think the pin should stop the washers form turning and the cover plate I am thinking will hold the pin in place, however, at this point if there is a bolt out there with the right size head that pin can also hold bolt form backing off I would really like to just get it and be done with it so I can use the grader with out worrying about it anymore.

With bearing wear you might need additional shims to attain the correct preload for rolling torque....at 50 ft/lbs on the bolt.

Just to help git'er done, heres a link to spring scale


and you can get shim stock at napa and make additional shims
 

goldhunter_2

Active Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2024
Messages
37
Location
TN
You could pull the cover off the other side to confirm the bolt head and pin size.
I think I mentioned this before but mite have been in another thread. I did peak into the right side however it has four wire ties to the plate bolts so I did not remove all the way and disassemble. I am firm believe in "if it ain't broke don't fix it" and I have enough problems right now with the left side wheel to last me away lol I am just trying to get it usable again as we have a very long easement road as only access and really need this grader running to get proper grade and drainage one day well get rock but not in budget for right now

I have physical measured the pin to center of bolt to get the bolt head size of 1" , MacmasterCarr has a B7 bolt with a 7/8" head that mite be close enough to work but if other guy can find a cat part number for one with the 1" head I just going to try to find one of those
 

Nige

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
29,768
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
did you happen to find a cat part number that the bolt has that 1" head?
Sorry, no. I thought I had seen some non-standard bolts listed but I can't find them now.
I did peak into the right side however it has four wire ties to the plate bolts so I did not remove all the way and disassemble. I am firm believe in "if it ain't broke don't fix it"
A photo of the intact RH side without disassembling might help. I can't get my head around the "it has four wire ties to the plate bolts" when the bearing retainer plate only has one bolt. Or are you referring to the bolts for the outer cover plate being lock-wired.? Dunno about anyone else but I can't see any reason at all to lock-wire the cover bolts because all they do is keep the grease in.

An off the wall suggestion FWIW. You say you only have 2 shims in there at the moment. I imagine they are only quite thin, 20-30 thousandths maybe.? Cut a disc of 1/16" plate with the same OD as the shims and drill a hole in the centre for the bolt. Install that with the shims, cover plate and using just a regular 1/2" bolt tighten it using no more than a power handle. Then grab hold of the top & bottom of the front tyre and feel for play in the bearings. If you can feel movement then the bearings are too loose, but you have proved the point that previously the bearings were too tight, not enough shims in other words.
 

goldhunter_2

Active Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2024
Messages
37
Location
TN
Sorry, no. I thought I had seen some non-standard bolts listed but I can't find them now.

A photo of the intact RH side without disassembling might help. I can't get my head around the "it has four wire ties to the plate bolts" when the bearing retainer plate only has one bolt. Or are you referring to the bolts for the outer cover plate being lock-wired.? Dunno about anyone else but I can't see any reason at all to lock-wire the cover bolts because all they do is keep the grease in.

An off the wall suggestion FWIW. You say you only have 2 shims in there at the moment. I imagine they are only quite thin, 20-30 thousandths maybe.? Cut a disc of 1/16" plate with the same OD as the shims and drill a hole in the centre for the bolt. Install that with the shims, cover plate and using just a regular 1/2" bolt tighten it using no more than a power handle. Then grab hold of the top & bottom of the front tyre and feel for play in the bearings. If you can feel movement then the bearings are too loose, but you have proved the point that previously the bearings were too tight, not enough shims in other words.
Ok thanks anyway for looking for the bolt .

yes the four wire ties go to the four bolts on the cover plate so if cover come off so do wires, at this point I image at some point someone has been in that RH wheel at some point, but to me its working and I really don't want to mess with that side for that reason.

yes the shims are thin, I haven't mic them but I image they are more like 10 thousand each , I could try some extra shims , either see if napa has some or make some like you suggested . I have previous done basically what you have said several of the times I hand tightened it before and I honestly expected to feel some slop but really bearings feel tight they spin but can't notice any freeplay . when i bought it the guy said he just put new chains on rear an some other stuff i thinking he replaced this bearing but don't know for sure
 

Nige

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
29,768
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
I honestly expected to feel some slop but really bearings feel tight they spin but can't notice any freeplay .
That's probably as good an indication as any that there are not enough shims in the assembly. If you go down this route I would also suggest that when you are attempting to set the bearings remove the wheel/tyre assembly first. It will make it easier to "feel" for the bearing adjustment without having to fight against the weight of the wheel.

Also when you go to reassemble post some photos showing the condition of the bearing rollers and of the bearing cups where the rollers run. Do this after you have cleaned off all the existing grease.
 
Last edited:

Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,733
Location
Canada
I'd take a different approach. You have 1 side you can't keep the wheel on and 1 side without that problem. You don't want to disturb the good side because it has 4 tie wires. Removing the 4 tie wires, that may not even be needed, seems like something pretty simple that could reveal what the problem is. Shouldn't be hard to replace the tie wires. Pics. of both sides might help.
 
Top