I'm not sure what you actually mean by the steering clutch "pulls slow". Does that mean the steering clutch is slow to release, or something else?
There is no adjustment on the actual steering clutches themselves, but the control linkage needs to be adjusted to ensure the correct level of freeplay before the steering clutch valving is actuated.
If the freeplay is inadequate, the valving will not return to its proper off position and the clutches will be partially released at all times the engine is operating.
If the steering clutch is not releasing fully, then the hydraulics that operate the steering release mechanism are at fault.
The steering clutch hydraulics are powered by the transmission pump pressure - oil under pressure is bled off the pump and directed to the steering clutch valve, as each lever is pulled.
A hydraulic spool is activated when the steering lever is pulled, this spool directs oil into a circular piston, which is sealed by a teflon piston ring, at the steering clutches.
As the oil pressure increases, the piston moves inwards to compress the heavy springs and the multi-plate steering clutch is disengaged.
If the teflon seals start to leak, oil pressure in the piston is lost and the steering clutch will fail to disengage properly.
The seals are normally very durable, but if the bevel gear/cross-shaft bearings are failing, this will allow the cross-shaft to drop and damage the teflon seal, and steering clutch oil pressure is then lost.
As a general rule, if steering clutch pressure is being lost in a big way, this is a sure indication of a failed bevel gear/cross-shaft bearing.
Another factor is trash from wear in transmission components can find its way into the steering clutch spools and cause erratic performance.
Trash gets into these spools when the transmission oil filter is not changed regularly (or the transmission is failing), and the filter becomes overloaded with debris.
The oil filter is a bypass type, so if the filter is full, the bypass valve opens and debris is simply dumped back into the oil system.
Removal of steering clutches is a big job, it requires fuel tank and seat and floor plate removal, removal of all steering and brake linkages and shafts, and removal of the steering clutch housing covers.
Once all this is removed, the bolts holding the steering clutches are removed from both sides (this requires jacking the track to move the tractor a few inches to access all the bolts.
Once all the bolts are removed (you leave one each side at the top to hold the drum and clutch assembly until you're ready to lift them out), you then utilise the brake band as a sling to lift the clutch and drum assembly out.
A small wire rope sling is used to pull the tops of the brake band together to hold the drum tightly.
You must ensure the clutch assembly doesn't fall out of the drum once it's out.
This job is a 2-man job at minimum, 3 will make it proceed faster. It's major surgery, so you don't want to be paying good money for a tractor that requires this level of repair.
The primary check is to attach a pressure gauge to the steering hydraulics circuit to find out whether the steering clutch hydraulic pressure is within specifications. This is easy enough to do, and is what you need to do before you go any further.
