Bobcat T180 Track Lock issues

[mkbob]

Hello,
I have been searching the forums but cannot find anyone with the same issue. I have a bobcat T180 that is an amazing machine and has started to give me some issues.

The machine runs flawlessly however sometimes when i lift the seat bar mid operation and put it back down the tracks wont unlock even though all lights for unlocking have lit up and the lift and tilt cylinders begin to operate. Its almost as if the machine doesn't want to unlock the tracks only.

To get it out of this issue I just have to turn off the machine run a battery box and it goes away. The battery doesn't have any issues because its in the dead of winter and it is capable of starting the machine after sitting idle for weeks.

The workaround for this issue I have found is i turn the machine off before lifting the seat bar, and start it when I need to use it.

The alternator is also doing its job as I can operate the machine for hours non stop with no hiccups.

Any suggestions im super lost?

 

[Simon C]

Might be a good idea to post your serial number and year of machine if you know. Sounds like a harness, connection or similiar problem.
Have you checked all the ground connections. Have you tested all or any of the fuses, relays, fusible links, Diodes positive power to the controller, positive power and ground to the instrumentation panel.
Tell somemore about it. Do you have a quality multimeter with various ends.
Simon C

 

[mkbob]

Hello it is a 2005 machine 2900 hours I dont have the Sn handy

I have checked all the fuses. I dont know where to look for ground connections is there anywhere specific?

I will look into the instrument panel and yes i have a multimeter. I have checked the solenoid for frays and it looks clean aswell. The seat bar sensor is functioning as it lifts and shuts controls and it is lowered the light indicator illuminates.

Ive noticed when i increase the speed on the engine the lights go brighter but that seems normal because the alternator speed increases? In terms of Frays what am i specifically looking for

 

[ozarkag]

Have you tried other sequences. Such as set park with park rocker switch?

 

[Simon C]

Ok. So your machine is 20 years old and has 3000 hours basically. Here is what I can tell you. Those track machine vibrate a lot compared to rubber tired machines. That equates to things getting loose in time. Most of the connectors on that machine have guaranteed less tension on the pins than when it was first built. So you need to do some voltage testing with your multimeter to find the circuits with too much voltage loss.
Might as well start at the alternator if it is at 3000 hours and original. If the diodes start to wear you will get too much AC in the circuits and will have all kinds of problems from it. You already said the lights get brighter when you rev it up.

First test costs nothing. Just do it and post results. #1 Put your meter on AC lowest voltage ( 4 volts or less preferable) not DC and with machine running , revved up and lights on put your red multimeter lead on the*** Alternator*** battery terminal (positive), not at battery. Put your black lead at Battery negative. How much AC Voltage is leaking. And don't say non or you have done it wrong.. Probably your meter will read
(0.03 volts or 30millivolts) or more up to 0.5volts(500 millivolts). Do not put your Red test lead at the battery for this test, as battery will act as a heat sink and nothing will record.

Take a picture of these instructions, and bring them with you so that you don't waste your time.

#2 While unit is still running CHANGE meter to DC and put Red test lead in center of battery Positive and black one in center of battery Negative. How much is it reading.?

#3 With machine running and lights on stab the center of Positive post with the Red test lead and stab the Positive of the Key switch with the Black test lead. What is the reading?

#4 With the Red test lead still on the battery positive and the machine running and the lights on stab your Black test lead to the ACC terminal of the key switch . What does the meter reads?

#5 With Machine running and lights on Stab the upper console frame on clean steel with the RED Positive terminal and stab the Dead center of the battery Negative post with the Black Negative test lead ( not on some frame part). What does the meter read?

#6 Machine running , lights on stab side of frame on clean steel with Red test lead and stab dead center of Battery Negative post with Black test lead. What is the reading.

Start with these test first just to rule out that you missed something or just go buy a pile of parts LOL. Sorry for being smart just have seen too many simple ones missed over the years.

This is what I would test first, then we will test a few other simple ones. Hope it helps.
Simon C

 

[mkbob]

Should I do these test with machine on idle or high speed?

 

[Simon C]

High idle or even 2/3 throttle is good, just to make sure alternator is putting out max., and with enough lights and maybe the fan on to create loads so that the weakness in connection somewhere will become evident. Always need to move some current to do quality voltage drop testing.
Lets face it, the more current you flow through a connection in not perfect condition, the more likely it is to fail partially or entirely. Hope it helps.
Simon C