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Broken Axle (?) Identification

Truck Shop

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Where you will get hooked is on the core, most all want like for like. A non locker core
is going to drive the price, unless you can find a used locker take-out with no core charge.
 

Acoals

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Where you will get hooked is on the core, most all want like for like. A non locker core
is going to drive the price, unless you can find a used locker take-out with no core charge.

As usual, you are correct. A Weller reman on the shelf in Milwaukee is $2,600. They have a Locking rear on the shelf as well, $3,400, however there is a $1,100 additional charge for the wrong core, plus the cost of the axle. Basically I am $2,600 to get the truck running or $5,000 to upgrade it. I have thrown enough money at these things the last couple months I will probably just leave it the way it is.

You were a little off on the ratio, it is a 4.56 :D . . . probably because of the overdrive transmission.
 
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Acoals

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I have to figure out what is wrong before I start buying stuff, the only way I know of is to take the center out.
There is a local guy with a tandem wrecker who will bring it in for half the price of the big outfits here, it just has to be 6am Saturday and I have to help him hook up. Once I get it into the shop tomorrow I will start taking things apart. ...
 

Truck Shop

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Too bad you don't live closer, I would help you, plus I have a really cool jack that's custom
designed for removing drive center sections and flywheels. It takes all the fight out of it.
I've changed a front drop in 1.5 hrs using this jack many times.
 

Acoals

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I have an automotive transmission floor jack I was thinking of using. How is yours set up? Maybe I can make something. I have been trying to think of a way to support it, and my most readily available help is an 8 year old .... lol
 

Truck Shop

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Mine is a manufactured, don't remember the name. It holds it by the yoke and has feet
that grab the flange. But I also use 4" long dowels in the housing to line it up for a
straight shot.
 

Truck Shop

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Well, add that to the wish list. Would be particularly helpful when working alone . . .
Knock on wood--I still have all my fingers, thumbs and limbs. Even if two people are there it's
just less grief for both, and a better job in the end. The older I got the less I wanted to put up
with a make due situation. For some it's easier to hold on to that beer.
 

1693TA

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Don't look like nuthin my little AC-225 Lincoln "buzz box" welder, some sticks of Tractor Supply 6011, and a couple hours with a Dremmel tool won't take care of to me.

Remember "I ain't no professional", so you can try this at home.....

Seen that several times in the past. A pullout is the least expensive way to go, or a reman as suggested if you are going to run the truck for a while. I used Geiger Truck Parts in Watseka, IL a lot when in business. https://lkq-ht.com/en-us/locations/watsaka-il/ They are now in the LKQ network. Talk to either Doug Geiger, or Shawn, (can't remember last name) but if they don't have it they'll find it for you. Better pricing than other big names in my experience.

Keine builds good stuff for certain. My diesel pop tester is from them purchased in 1983 through a military diesel school I attended.
 

Acoals

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Don't look like nuthin my little AC-225 Lincoln "buzz box" welder, some sticks of Tractor Supply 6011, and a couple hours with a Dremmel tool won't take care of to me.

I have a buzz box, but 6011 is too smoky and spattery, I am going to use 6013 just to get Welder Dave torqued up when he comes by . . . :cool:

Weller truck in Millwaukee has a reman on the shelf, I will be rolling out at 3am Monday, in theory I can be back to my shop by Noon, with a little luck it will run by the end of the day.
 

Acoals

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Sorry to see that but when rear drives hop it's what torque does. I've seen both taken out
at the same time.

Yes, I know exactly why this one failed. "This ground seems pretty good, I think I can back down a little farther and then I don't have to track back and forth as I load it"

The easy way out of the situation would have been to have another guy put the bucket up in the load and push as I started the truck out, but I was alone. Because that wasn't an option, I would have had to walk the excavator all the way around the foundation, which would have involved flattening out the spoil piles on two sides; it would have been like 1/2 an hour. I would have also had to build a berm for safety in case the chain broke or something, because it was about 75' down a bank into a lake behind where the excavator was.

So basically I saved myself 45 minutes by putting the truck down for three days and spending $3,000 on parts and a tow truck . . . :cool:
 

1693TA

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I have a buzz box, but 6011 is too smoky and spattery, I am going to use 6013 just to get Welder Dave torqued up when he comes by . . . :cool:

Weller truck in Millwaukee has a reman on the shelf, I will be rolling out at 3am Monday, in theory I can be back to my shop by Noon, with a little luck it will run by the end of the day.
I was trying yet to save you a bit more time as them 6011 welding sticks save with being able to weld onto greasy, rusty, dirty, or imperfect base metals with perfection based results. Them 6013 sticks needs to have cleaner metal to work with. The slag does chip off easier though.

Glad Weller has a reman readily available. That will help get you back up on short order.
 

terex herder

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I don't know why a little 6013 wouldn't work. I've lost count of the starter ring gears I've fixed with oxy/acetylene and a coat hanger
 
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