Oh that's cool. Okay, one more question on the bulb. I have a 55w halogen in the garage, would that do the trick or do I specifically need a 60w incandescent for this test?
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CAT 226B Parking Brake Indicator and Armrest Indicator Are Flashing
- Thread starter AustinC
- Start date
Nige
Senior Member
A 55W halogen would work. TBH you don't need a power probe, just some suitable lengths of wire to connect Batt+ to one end of the 202 Black wire, your lamp, and a piece of wire to connect the other end of 202 Black to frame ground if you are testing it to some intermediate point.
If you propose to leave 202 Black connected to ground at one end then basically all you need is a long enough length of wire to connect Batt+ to the lamp and another short length to connect the lamp to the exposed end of 202 Black. Simples.........
Okay thank you. Before I continue with the test light I wanted to go out and locate wire 202 and I'm not finding it.
At the arm rest connection I'm seeing a black wire, 200-cn139. In the electrical schematic it's 202-cn139.
The ground that contacts the cab near that location has three wires contacting it.
200-cn32
203-cn125
203-PA127
I'm not seeing 202. Maybe there is a different electrical schematic for my machine?
Here is a picture of the three wires going to the ground. You can also see the connection to the armrest on the left.
Nige
Senior Member
Believe the schematic. 202--CN139 goes right from the armrest switch to the cab ground in Grid H-11. Personally even if the 55W lamp lights fine I would be tempted (after having done that test not before) to disassemble the wires at the cab ground point and clean all the ring terminals, then reassemble.
While you are in there check the connection on the other end of the 7G-1060 cab ground strap is clean and tight.
Before I move on with testing the armrest switch with the test light, I wanted to mention this and get some clarification.
The other day when I was going through the troubleshooting procedure for 1184-3, I had the wire harness for the Aux ECM unplugged in order to troubleshoot. After I followed the steps I never reconnected the wire harness to the ECM.
The following day, I went out to move the machine so I could pull my trailer out of the backyard. I forgot I never reconnected the wire harness but I was still able to start the machine with the Aux ECM harness unplugged. After I had started the machine and moved my trailer I realized I had forgotten to reconnect the harness.
So my question is, how did the machine start with the Aux ECM unplugged from the harness? What is the purpose of the Aux ECM?
Nige
Senior Member
Its full title is Aux Hydraulic ECM, which gives a clue as to its function.
There is nothing in it that would prevent an engine start. That is the function of the Interlock ECM.
I'm assuming that although you started the engine you never attempted to move the machine or operate the implements.?
Okay got it. I started it, raised the bucked and dumped water out because it had rained and the bucket was full of water. That's when I realized the harness was unplugged. Should I have been able to raise the bucket with the Aux ECM unplugged?
Nige
Senior Member
Yes because your machine is old style with pilot-operated implement controls, not the electro-hydraulic joysticks used on later C & D models. The implement lockout switch is an input to the Interlock ECM.
The only systems that are electro-hydraulic on your 226B are the controls that require push-buttons and/or the thumbwheel roller to operate.
Okay great, thanks for clarifying. I will follow-up once I use the test light on the armrest switch.
I finally found time to go test this. I'm not sure I tested it correctly though.
I started by disconnecting my battery from the machine. I then connected my test wires, on one end of batt+ and batt- to my battery on the machine then I connected batt+ to the test light and the arm rest connection, black wire 200-cn139. Then I connected batt- to test light.
The light obviously turned on since it had batt+ and batt- from the machine battery. The black wire 200-cn139 did not get hot but I don't think that applies due to how I tested it.Do I need to leave the battery cables connected to the machine during this test?
To clarify, I don't have 202-CN139 on my machine at this location. At the arm rest connection I have black wire, 200-cn139.
The ground that contacts the cab near that location has three wires contacting it.
200-cn32
203-cn125
203-PA127
Any advice on how to test this the correct way would be appreciated. I'm sure your instructions above make sense and I'm just missing something.
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Nige
Senior Member
First the test light.
1. You should disconnect both the Batt+ and Batt- cables from the battery. They remain disconnected throughout the test.
2. Connect a temporary wire from the Batt+ terminal to the test light.
3. Connect a temporary wire from the other side of the test light to one end of the wire you want to test - 200-CN139 at the seat end in this case.
4. Connect one end of a temporary wire to the other end of 200-CN139 (when you find it). Touch the other end of that same temporary wire to Batt- The test light should light if 200-CN139 is in good shape because you are passing the current powering the test light (approx 4.5A) through it.
Question: How many ohms of resistance do you measure on the 200-CN139 wire between the seat switch and machine frame ground.?
1. You should disconnect both the Batt+ and Batt- cables from the battery. They remain disconnected throughout the test.
2. Connect a temporary wire from the Batt+ terminal to the test light.
3. Connect a temporary wire from the other side of the test light to one end of the wire you want to test - 200-CN139 at the seat end in this case.
4. Connect one end of a temporary wire to the other end of 200-CN139 (when you find it). Touch the other end of that same temporary wire to Batt- The test light should light if 200-CN139 is in good shape because you are passing the current powering the test light (approx 4.5A) through it.
Question: How many ohms of resistance do you measure on the 200-CN139 wire between the seat switch and machine frame ground.?
Perfect thank you!
Any advice on how to locate the other end of 200-cn139 since it's not showing 200-cn139 in the electrical schematic? I'm thinking I will need to remove the cover from the wire harness and follow it until I find the end.
For the resistance measurement on 200-cn139, (see pic for how I tested) I disconnected the armrest switch and left the seat switch connected. Then measured from 200-cn139 with the red probe and the black alligator clip attached to the machine ground. If I tested it correctly I'm getting 0.00 ohms on that test.
Nige
Senior Member
I would suggest that you do the test again and this time set your meter dial on the 2k ohm setting rather than the 20k setting that it's on in your photo, just to see if it makes a difference.
Okay, just ran out and tested at 2k and got .000
I'll work on locating the other end of 200-cn139
Nige
Senior Member
That measurement sounds implausible. There should be something even if it’s only decimals of an ohm. Unless it’s a reflection of the accuracy of the meter you are using.
I tested this yesterday, the light turned on (see pic) and the wire did not get hot.
I found that 200-cn139 ties into 203-cn125. 203-cn125 is the ground to the machine frame.
Following your instructions above, I connected batt- temp wire to 200-cn139 and batt+ temp wire to 203-cn125 and the test light.
After the test, as recommended I removed the grounds an cleaned them and the contact to the frame.
I'm guessing that I didn't test this correctly.
When you say the 200-cn139 wire between the seat switch, should I be testing the G985-CN137 wire on the seat switch connection?
Previously I tested 200-cn139 from the arm rest connection to the machine frame.
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Nige
Senior Member
From what I can see the ground connection from the armrest switch appears to be fine. i think maybe the level of accuracy of your meter is not sufficient to register the (v small) resistance that would normally be measured between 200-CN139 at the armrest switch connector and machine frame ground.
Also by using the 55W lamp to pass current through 200-CN139 and the wire does not get hot I think you can safeyl say it's in good shape.
Also by using the 55W lamp to pass current through 200-CN139 and the wire does not get hot I think you can safeyl say it's in good shape.
You can test both G984-CN58 and G983-CN138 using the test light & temporary wires from the armrest switch to the ECM. In the case of the latter it will be via the seat switch (where it morphs into G985-CN137) so you will need weight on the seat to close the contacts of that switch.
Hello, I'm still working through this issue with my machine when I have time. I needed to move my machine yesterday so started it up and moved it. While doing that, I noticed that the detent coil was not working. I shove the joystick forward and it would lock for a second then unlock. I wonder if my detent coil is causing all of the issues that I'm having with the parking brake and armrest indicator flashing. Any one have any thoughts or input on the detent coil being the culprit? Thank you!
Hey Nige, I did these test and everything seems fine. I sent my ECM to GOECM and they said it couldn’t be repaired due to corrosion. I purchased a refurbished ECM from them. It arrived yesterday and I installed it. When I turn the key on I get a battery and oil light but the machine won’t attempt to start. Do you have any ideas on what could be going on? Did I get a faulty refurbished one from GOECM?
Nige
Senior Member
No I don't have an idea. It should be plug&play. I think you may have a bad ECM but better to refer back to the supplier for advice before condemning it.