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Cat D6H LGP 2 overheating engine (coolant restrictor?)

JAJ

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JAJ, did your regulator look like the 1 in the post No 29 by Nige, or better still put up the part number of the thing you fitted, i notice you love a good amount of pig jollop around a gasket face, you might need to have schooling on it's use, that crap only needs a smear to be used, you seem to have plenty spare, if you look on the top of the old regulator it will state a temp standard. tctractors
Hi TCTractors
Yeah I couldn’t believe how much gasket goo I put on there when I pulled it apart!! I had to reuse the old gasket, that was the only reason it was on there at all and I was worried about it leaking. I don’t use any on new gaskets at all. I had to do the same when I had it apart to bore the hole out, but put a lot less on for round 2.
Very well spotted.

The regulator is a bit different to the parts diagram, Cat tells me this is the new part that replaced the old one, so I hope that’s right. I have the spare one in the car I’ll go take some pics, they are both the same. I’m sure they have 175 on them, there is a higher temp one available but these are the low temp option.
 

JAJ

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89A63189-B539-420D-BE50-C88E77942603.jpeg 9E262037-524C-4980-841E-C6A6CC03B524.jpeg 988B2711-BF06-4C19-B60E-51955A685480.jpeg A pic of the machine and looking forward and backward down the cleared line to show what work its doing
 

JAJ

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Hi Nige just uploaded pic and part no of the Reg
I thought the lower temp one would be better in hotter temps? I think it is supposed to be full open at 91*C if I recall the specs… I thought full flow at lower temps would mean it would run cooler over all. I could be very wrong though and very glad to be corrected!!!!!!
I think the hotter option was full open at 97*C but can’t remember for sure.
Could you explain what you think the difference would be between the two options?
Thanks
 

Mobiltech

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What did the jiggle valve look like beside the regulator. Was there one in it?
You should probably replace it too.
 

Nige

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I thought the lower temp one would be better in hotter temps? I think it is supposed to be full open at 91*C if I recall the specs… I thought full flow at lower temps would mean it would run cooler over all. I could be very wrong though and very glad to be corrected!!!!!!
I think the hotter option was full open at 97*C but can’t remember for sure.
The 111-8010 starts to open at 79.5*C and is fully open by 91*C.
The other option is a 116-7577 that starts to open at 86*C and is fully open by 97*C.

Here's how I would explain it. I hope it makes sense. Everything else being equal the reduction in the temperature of the coolant as it flows through the radiator depends basically on two factors. How fast it flows through the cores from top to bottom, and the temperature difference between the coolant and that of the ambient air that is being blown over the radiator by the fan. So provided that the coolant is not overheated the temperature gradient between a hotter coolant and the prevailing ambient temperature obtained by using a regulator with a higher temperature would actually aid cooling.

An interesting factoid is that the 111-8010 regulator is the one specified for use with the 8N-0743 Orificed Outlet Pipe which seems to back up the use of that pipe on machines working in colder climates.

I think it's important to stress a few things in your particular operating environment: -
1. A lot depends on the coolant flow being as it should be right through the system. You said earlier you'd been into the water pump but what did you find.? Got any photos.?
2. The fan spider, pulleys, tensioner mechanism, and belts all have to be in tip-top shape. Were those photos you posted on Page 2 of the "will fit" belts that were installed previously or of the OEM Cat ones that are installed now.?
3. Air passing from the fan through the radiator has to have nowhere else to go other than through the cores. The sealing of the baffles on the fan shroud around the spider and between the shroud and the radiator have to be as perfect as you can get it.
4. You need good coolant in the system. I would recommend either ELI or ELC whichever you can get hold of, but ELI would be my preference.
 

Delmer

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I respectfully disagree on the thermostat or regulator. The conventional thinking is the cooler temperature rating will give you more time from the thermostat opening until it overheats, in this case of hard work and high ambient temps, I don't think an extra minute or two is going to make any noticeable difference one way or the other, you're operating fully open nearly 100% of the time.

We're past the common issues (besides air flow bypassing which might need some work yet). It seems there are parts there that didn't come with it, is it possible there are different size crank or fan pulleys that would change the ratio? or different fans? After that, maybe time to look at the engine itself, timing, spray pattern, turbo performance etc. All that is over my pay grade though.
 

Nige

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I'd like to see better photos of all the pulleys, from the crankshaft upwards. Also some photos showing how close to the bottom of the grooves on each pulley the belts are running .
The conventional thinking is the cooler temperature rating will give you more time from the thermostat opening until it overheats, in this case of hard work and high ambient temps,
It's the part about keeping the coolant temperature as high as it'll go without boiling that's the most important.
I can't post the whole document here because it's too big, but I extracted this quote from REHS1063 entitled "Know your Cooling System". The amount of heat transfer in the radiator from the coolant to the air is directly related to the difference between coolant and air temperature. An increase in this temperature differential will increase the heat transfer. Normally, the design of a cooling system will permit operation at a temperature that is high enough for a good heat transfer, but low enough to prevent coolant boiling. I think the critical part in regards this particular tractor is the operation in ambient temperatures above 40*C, to me that suggests the coolant temperature should be kept as high as possible to maximize the heat transfer in the radiator.
 

Delmer

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Normally, the design of a cooling system will permit operation at a temperature that is high enough for a good heat transfer ...
i don't think that implies a NEED to keep the temp up for good heat transfer, the temp rises to the point where it can transfer enough heat to maintain that temp. A cooling system that can maintain 160F won't have more capacity with a 190F thermostat than it would with a 160F thermostat but operating hard enough to run at 190.

"Know your cooling system" comes up in a search as SEBD0518-09 and has similar but not identical language. "PERMIT" operation is the key, if 205F is what the engine runs at in those temps, that's fine, the engine doesn't care if the iron is 200, or 250 or 300. Trouble is when the coolant boils and localized overheating happens. That's why air cooled can run much hotter temps, the air doesn't boil, and the metal is thick enough to prevent hot spots as long as the air is moving.

A few suggestions from the publication: photo tach for fan speed, if you know the fan speed spec, a cheap photo tachometer can tell if it's slipping. It mentions more than once not to operate near torque converter stall speed, I interpret that as keep the engine well ABOVE torque converter stall speed for most operation, that is, at rated engine speed or close to it, even without a torque converter.
 

Queenslander

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I actually found an old thread where “Scrub Puller” had said about having issues with the hot air from the radiator hitting the back of the Stickrakes and recirculating too. They made deflectors to push it upwards. I’ll post a pic of the machine for you and see what you think.

G’day JAJ,
Difficult to tell in your pic but it looks like you have the rad. guard with angled slats which should be enough to send the hot air upwards and out of the way.
The size of your rake, timber etc. should be easy going for a D6H.
Are you pulling an implement at times or just using the gps to map out lines?
 

JAJ

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Hi sorry for another delay in getting back to everyone. and for the long post

There is a few posts to answer so I will get to that in moment, bit of an update first. I worked the machine for a few hours yesterday to actually give it a good test to see how the improvements we have worked out so far are helping up to now and test with a door off as well. I couldn't hook a gauge up to test Radiator pressure with what I had with me but with everything up to temp, if you lift the valve on the rad cap it seemed to have quite a bit of pressure in there. So I'd say it would be working correctly. It has 50 stamped on the top so I expect that to be 50 Kpa (7.25psi). It is a genine Cat one and it looks like the one Cat lists on the website for it, I can find the old invoice and check part no. if you want?

So temp comes up rather quickly to 80*C then slowly rises to 91. It pauses around there for a while then slowly rose up to 98-100 and stayed there for a while but slowly crept up as the day got hotter. Around lunch time it was up around 104*C. I pulled one of the side doors off for awhile at this stage but it made no difference. I did notice at this stage too that the AC condenser was getting plugged up again (only done a few hours since last cleanout) so we blew that and the whole radiator out and air filter. Lots of dust came out of the rad core. I do an initial clean then repeat with engine at high idle to get extra out (best way I have came up with so far for field clean out) After doing this I expected that there would be even a small drop in temp... absolutely no change, it ran at 104*C for the rest of the afternoon. It was a 43* ambient temp afternoon so rather hot, but a cleaner radiator made no difference to the coolant temp!! More air through a cleaner radiator has to mean more heat out... if that was the problem wouldnt it? This is the key point that has had me stumped all along, and I blew it out mid way thought the day to make sure I wasn't just convincing my self that it was happening, about as scientific as I could come up with. Any other machine I have the moment the coolant temps rises above its normal range it signals time for a clean out and everthing goes back to normal.
I also double checked temps of the core sections and the temp drops from top to bottom were the same on all cores at the end of the afternoon. It was extremely hard to get accurate temps with the amount of hot air that was blasting out the front with it at mid Revs, what i imagine being in a fan forced oven feels like. I was thinking afterwards maybe I should have checked this as soon as the temp got to something like 93* so it hadnt had a chance to soaked though the Rad if things were blocked but I haven't convinced myself that it would make much difference. Happy to repeat if you guys think that would be better?
I forgot to take the tacho up yesterday to check fan speed as has been suggested but I am going back tomorrow because I want to take the muffler off to make sure an exhaust restriction isn't a contributing factor. This is something I realized I haven't checked yet and I wanted to rule it out.

That "Know your cooling system" is a very good read I have it saved on my phone for reference, there is also a dozer specific one as well that is an extra add on that I found a while ago. It added a few other things and I thought was worth reading too.

So up till this point of the thread I have tried to just state the facts as I see them and not bias them with my own opinions to much (hope everyone thinks I have done a good job of this). I didnt start the thread to find people to validate my ideas, I wanted to share the facts with some other like minded problem solvers and hopefully brainstorm a solution... and all of us(especially ME!!!!) learn a bit in the process. SO with that said I an going to give my interpretation of the facts and see what you guys think. I welcome to be corrected or challenged with anything I say, I am here to learn and are very grateful for what info and knowledge everyone has shared so far!!!!

Here is my take on what I see happening. The thermostat/regulator is matching up with pauses at the correct temps as per the specs so I think this should rule it out for misbehaving. I hear what Nige is getting at with higher coolant temp meaning better heat transfer but once you get to 97*C both regulators are going to be fully open and at max flow. This should mean that at that point the system would function the same regardless wouldn't it? As I understand it if heat keeps getting added after this then you get to a point where it should balance out at the systems capacity to shed the heat. I think this is what I am seeing when it levels off at around 100*C and the rises as the ambient temp goes up. Please set me straight if I have this wrong, but I think that is the theory isn't it?
A coolant temp of over 100*C is too hot isnt it? I just want to make sure that we all agree on that. Just thinking about it and if its not boiling and spewing coolant out is it really too hot? I am worried it is over 95*C but with high ambient temps what should I be aiming for? The manual suggests normal operating temp range is 75-93*C and the warning light should come on at 107*C.

Ok so if it is too hot, where is the heat coming from and why isn't it getting rid of it... the fact that I did the test with blowing the radiator out has me directed back at excess heating rather than not enough cooling. Just my thinking trail.... I could be and probably am incorrect.
The torque converter/trans temp (once everything heats up) is 5*C hotter than the coolant. It heats up a bit more if you load the machine right up and travel speed slows right down but cools off back to the 5* when the load is lessened. I don't let it slow down very much from rated speed with a load, once you notice and feel a slight difference in speed it's time to get rid of the pile and start again. So I am thinking thats an unlikely cause. That has me looking back at the engine.
I know the intake isnt sucking hot gasses back trough the dust ejector, but I dont know if the muffler might have a restriction. I think this could cause heating and it is about the last easy thing I can think of to check. I figure if I put a straight pipe on it and it makes no difference that is ruled out (going to try that tomorrow).
I'm not saying that the pulleys and belts are not still a possible factor but I am thinking unlikely. The pics I took were of the used Cat belts that I put back on, the new ones that I have coming still havent showed up yet. Have to chase them up. The old belts were sitting right down in the Vee's but these seem to be up ok.
The fan shroud is a small factor I believe for sure but I really think there is something else that is the more major cause. If its not the exhaust I really hope I am wrong!!!!!
I did have a overheating issue on a small Fiat dozer (first one I got) when I had the injector pump rebuilt. I got the timing a little out when i re installed it and it was lacking in power and overheated very quickly. So that is something I had wondered about but haven't checked yet.

Flushing the Coolant out where the machine is would be a challenge. I am looking forward to doing it and getting ELC or ELI in there but getting enough clean water to it where it is, is going to be hard. I have talked to the client and we can wait till the days cool off a bit to work it back to a source of rainwater if we need to as an option. When I do it I was thinking some cooling system restorer might be worth running through it as well? Might pick up some more efficiency in the radiator?

The water pump impeller (cast not plastic) looked good and clean when I had the cover off but I didnt take any pics. Do you think with the evidence we have it could still be a suspect?

Anyway looking forward to reading everyone's feedback on my theory's in the morning. I will get the fan and engine speeds tomorrow hopefully and test the exhaust idea. I think so far we have made a big improvement with the fact temps aren't continuing to climb and are actually now stopping. So we are winning bit by bit.
Bloody late here now so well past my bed time.
 

JAJ

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G’day JAJ,
Difficult to tell in your pic but it looks like you have the rad. guard with angled slats which should be enough to send the hot air upwards and out of the way.
The size of your rake, timber etc. should be easy going for a D6H.
Are you pulling an implement at times or just using the gps to map out lines?
G'day to you too!
No mine has the flat guard with holes in it not the angled slats.
Just using the gps for mapping lines so far but I had wondered about trying to rig up some type of auto steer. Makes keeping straight a lot easy than handheld GPS and back siting ect. I like being precise and it looks good to see a new fence or cleared line being dead straight for kilometers. The line we are on at the moment is over 10km I think and its nice to come out exactly where you are supposed to!
 

heymccall

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On my Caterpillar 328DLCR, simply air blowing the radiator became not enough.
Soap and steam were required, even though I could see clearly through there. It was a dust coating that originated in one region of WV. The telltale signs were that air filters wouldn't blow clean after 400 hours, and the small temp drop across (technically down) the radiator, even with the electro viscous fan on full time.
 
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Nige

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there is also a dozer specific one as well that is an extra add on that I found a while ago.
I have the latest version of the dozer one if you want it, but it’s too large to post here. Check your messages. Interestingly it has details of a High Ambient temperature radiator core Part Number to replace the one listed in your Parts Manual which IIRC is 4P-something.
 

Acoals

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I find this thread fascinating . . . you guys are working when its 109.5*F out? Up here in northern Wisconsin it hits 95*F and the men start passing out, the machines overheat, the trucks catch fire . . . :eek:
 

Steve.ahlgren85

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I find this thread fascinating . . . you guys are working when its 109.5*F out? Up here in northern Wisconsin it hits 95*F and the men start passing out, the machines overheat, the trucks catch fire . . . :eek:
  1. I had cooling issues with my D6c , wasn’t overheating but temperature gauge was running up close to the red marking. I took it to Ziegler caterpillar,they found the problem was rust buildup on the bottom of the radiator,also they put new water pump on which didn’t look bad but water was escaping the impeller. I put new radiator on with the water pump and it has been working fine for me. Just my two cents worth.
 

Nige

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I find this thread fascinating . . . you guys are working when its 109.5*F out?
Try the Indian sub-continent or the Sandbox (Middle East).......
I've experienced temperatures around 40*C @ 6:00am in Northern India and high-40s as a max.
By law in the ME all outside work has to stop when the mercury passes 50*C (122*F). Amazingly there are lots of days when the "official recorded max" is/was 49.5. Go figure.
 

Nige

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I'm not saying that the pulleys and belts are not still a possible factor but I am thinking unlikely. The pics I took were of the used Cat belts that I put back on,
It will be interesting to see how the new belts sit on both the crank and the fan pulleys compared to the ones that are on there now. I know it's hidden down in the belly of the beast but the crank pulley also requires to be carefully inspected for wear. Unfortunately the photos you posted on the previous page didn't clearly show how far proud the belts sat above the flanges of the pulley.
As you mentioned above, all may well be revealed when you are able to measure the fan speed with a phototach.

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