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D3B Clutch and cylinder rebuild

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,317
Location
Kentucky
Your not kidding when you said there is a lot going on.
Pressure comes in on the same point but the rest is all different
 

Dave the pool guy

Active Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2024
Messages
31
Location
Tennessee
I guess its not really that bad, and not taking into account what my time is worth, and way past what the dozer is worth by now.
Bought $4500
Motor rebuild $6500
Clutches $2750
Cylinders $200 guessing and could probably do my self, just getting the nut off/on the end maybe
Misc $300
Total 14,250 and I have a good dozer, just guessing thats about all its worth
I agree that it’s worth 20 all day long I paid 16500 for mine with new undercarriage but was unaware of steering clutch issue at the time I still think I got a fair deal
 

Dave the pool guy

Active Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2024
Messages
31
Location
Tennessee
As others have said, its best to get everything out of the way, but I had to try and do some without removing all. Still need to drain the lube, and have already dropped wrenches and had to retrieve. Doesn't look like the piston moves the arm much at all, maybe 1 inch at most. The break band looks brand new (never saw a new one) because there is a good 1/4 to 3/8 pad on it
View attachment 204033 View attachment 204034 View attachment 204035 View attachment 204037
I wish my dry clutches looked that clean not oily though that would be bad
 

Ghunt

Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2024
Messages
10
Location
Renfrew ontario
As others have said, its best to get everything out of the way, but I had to try and do some without removing all. Still need to drain the lube, and have already dropped wrenches and had to retrieve. Doesn't look like the piston moves the arm much at all, maybe 1 inch at most. The break band looks brand new (never saw a new one) because there is a good 1/4 to 3/8 pad on it
View attachment 204033 View attachment 204034 View attachment 204035 View attachment 204037
Hi thanks for the images of inside the drive. Wondering if you recall when you had it apart.? On the outside of the clutch cylinder in pic above, the bleed screw or bolt… mine is broke off and leaking bad, just wondering if you have any info
 

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AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,317
Location
Kentucky
That's listed as a test port, I don't remember loosing it to bleed. Don't remember what the thread is, but I think it's just NPT
 

Ghunt

Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2024
Messages
10
Location
Renfrew ontario
I don't know how close the piston is behind the plug
Well I got the plugs out and replaced with o/m from cat.. no more leaks. Thanks for your help. Only issue I’m having now is left steering clutch isn’t locking up. Not sure if I need to bleed the air out of the 300psi system coming from transmission to the clutch cylinder. Or if I need to adjust breaks when I stepped on the breaks today on a downhill only the right track stopped. Any info on adjustments?
 

AllDodge

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2011
Messages
2,317
Location
Kentucky
The clutch should stay locked up until the clutch cylinder releases it when pedal is depressed. When pedal moves half way down the clutch cylinder disengages clutch pack. When it moves further the brake band engages.

As WD mentioned check the valve and also pedal adjustment
 

Dave the pool guy

Active Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2024
Messages
31
Location
Tennessee
Well I got the plugs out and replaced with o/m from cat.. no more leaks. Thanks for your help. Only issue I’m having now is left steering clutch isn’t locking up. Not sure if I need to bleed the air out of the 300psi system coming from transmission to the clutch cylinder. Or if I need to adjust breaks when I stepped on the breaks today on a downhill only the right track stopped. Any info on adjustments?
The pedal should engage the steering clutch almost immediately. I think there’s only like a 3 second of an inch play before you hit the steering clutch and then it takes another couple inches to fully engage the valve. You should immediately feel the clutches release, but there’s a lot going on From the moment you push that till it actually disengages the clutches if you’re engaging that pedal, then you can check at the test port that you had to fix for proper pressure. One side is working though that tells me your pump is good. It may be that your steering clutch cylinder is not adjusted well enough to disengage the clutches, there’s an adjustment on the linkages to get that set just right once you get that far though you’ll need to pull the cover off under the appropriate side To check that adjustment
 

Dave the pool guy

Active Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2024
Messages
31
Location
Tennessee
The pedal should engage the steering clutch almost immediately. I think there’s only like a 3 second of an inch play before you hit the steering clutch and then it takes another couple inches to fully engage the valve. You should immediately feel the clutches release, but there’s a lot going on From the moment you push that till it actually disengages the clutches if you’re engaging that pedal, then you can check at the test port that you had to fix for proper pressure. One side is working though that tells me your pump is good. It may be that your steering clutch cylinder is not adjusted well enough to disengage the clutches, there’s an adjustment on the linkages to get that set just right once you get that far though you’ll need to pull the cover off under the appropriate side To check that adjustment
 

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Welder Dave

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 11, 2014
Messages
12,712
Location
Canada
Steering clutch should be fully disengaged with pedal about half way down. There is a spec. for clearance of the rollers on the valves. I think .015" but not positive. You don't want the steering clutches partially engaged with the pedals all the way up.
 

Ghunt

Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2024
Messages
10
Location
Renfrew ontario
The pedal should engage the steering clutch almost immediately. I think there’s only like a 3 second of an inch play before you hit the steering clutch and then it takes another couple inches to fully engage the valve. You should immediately feel the clutches release, but there’s a lot going on From the moment you push that till it actually disengages the clutches if you’re engaging that pedal, then you can check at the test port that you had to fix for proper pressure. One side is working though that tells me your pump is good. It may be that your steering clutch cylinder is not adjusted well enough to disengage the clutches, there’s an adjustment on the linkages to get that set just right once you get that far though you’ll need to pull the cover off under the appropriate side To check that adjustmen
 

Ghunt

Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2024
Messages
10
Location
Renfrew ontario
With some more investigating and adjustments I got it! Ended up following procedures for adjusting the brake band. Working good now. Topped up transmission oil which seems to have helped as well. Going to replace transmission filter and oil. I find it slow climbing in reverse out of a Ravine.. may just be the age of the old girl. Thanks for all the comments and help with these issues!
 

Ghunt

Member
Joined
Apr 21, 2024
Messages
10
Location
Renfrew ontario
Well I got the plugs out and replaced with o/m from cat.. no more leaks. Thanks for your help. Only issue I’m having now is left steering clutch isn’t locking up. Not sure if I need to bleed the air out of the 300psi system coming from transmission to the clutch cylinder. Or if I need to adjust breaks when I stepped on the breaks today on a downhill only the right track stopped. Any info on adjustments?
I don't know how close the piston is behind the plug
AllDodge

I was going to try and weld a nut on those test ports (as I thought they were broke off. I ended up drilling them and trying an easy out. Worked great old owner installed grease nipples in the holes… which didn’t hold up to the mud and rocks etc. thanks for your help with figuring that’s issue out.
Cheers
 
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