Drainage Question - Tile Vs. Ditch / Swale

[skyking1]

existing tile (clay and plastic, depends on location)

I know they talk about everything as "tile" due to how it is used, but for me tile is only that clay or concrete pipe with short lengths and bell and hub with no gasket or seal.
Everything else is "pipe" to me. you can call it a tile line all you want but when it comes in 13's or 20's, that's pipe.
I'd do SDR gasketed myself.
The tree roots only kill that open joint concrete or clay. I have replaced lots of old side sewers with that stuff. Roots, it wears right through on the bottom, the bell bottom breaks off and displaces, you name it.
The worst thing is Orangeburg but you'll never see that. (crossed fingers)

 

[scotts dump]

Interesting.. You could clean, camera and map your line to access condition. If you find roots then jet the line with a warthog head say 4000 lbs pressure and 8 or so gpm. this will cut those nasty roots out. After that, video then line the pipe with semi flex 3mm liner using an inverter. (see small drain inversion lining) After curing you will have a new pipe end to end.. no seams so no water loss so no new roots! Plants, trees look for water, no water leakage no more roots. Not to mention minimal excavation and ground disturbance.

 

[Beckbenj]

While the tile lining sounds like a good idea, I know for certain there are a several areas of broken tile and one area where the 6” corrugated is flattened out.

I do own a 6 ton excavator and skid steer so digging it up wouldn’t cost much more than material and fuel.

 

[Beckbenj]

I’m assuming the run of pipe should be perforated as well? I’m a little unclear as to where the pipe should be perforated and where it should be solid.

 

[Tinkerer]

It can be solid the entire length of the run.
Unless standing water on the surface needs to be eliminated quickly.
If the swale is covered with grass I would think surface water won't be a problem. It may delay you from mowing it for a couple of days. IMHO.
In your situation I would prefer 6" solid pvc either glued or gasket-ed.

 

[Beckbenj]

It can be solid the entire length of the run.
Unless standing water on the surface needs to be eliminated quickly.
If the swale is covered with grass I would think surface water won't be a problem. It may delay you from mowing it for a couple of days. IMHO.
In your situation I would prefer 6" solid pvc either glued or gasket-ed.

Standing water can be an issue depending on the amount of rain.

Would having a section of perforated pipe that runs for 50 ft or so and then switches back to solid be a good way to handle the surface water? I would run the solid pipe when getting close to trees to avoid root intrusion.

Or another route could be running perforated pipe next to / perpendicular to the main solid pipe line. The perf line would tie into the solid.

 

[KSSS]

I would run perf through out the area that sees water pooling. The water will percolate where it can and run in the pipe when there is too much water to be absorbed. You can run solid where you are not needing to absorb water. You would likely want to run pipe that is wrapped in fabric and surrounded by washed rock depending on what the soil conditions are.

 

[Beckbenj]

Here in northern Ohio we have heavy clay and water doesn’t do a great job of percolating through the soil. I’ve been researching what people in this area use and it’s all over the place - gravel and pipe in filter fabric, gravel and pipe only (no fabric), or even pipe bedded in sand with no gravel.

Ground cover (native soil / grass) in all these cases seems to be about 6”. Gravel used is #57 limestone.

 

[KSSS]

If your in clay, you can run clean 3/4 rock or whatever rock from within 6" of grass grade down to the perf pipe, or if your good with the gravel exposed on top, you can forget about the 6" of topsoil.