Grove MZ66B

[flingwing]

I am considering the purchase of a nicely maintained unit. While I have some experience with Pitman Digger Derricks, Snorkel lifts, and a few others, I know only what I read about Grove. I'm not an operator but was a products litigation investigator with a law firm representing various manufacturers. I read disparaging remarks about the articulated MZ66's design and I was wondering if the same concerns apply to the 4X4 straight boom.

I live in the mountains near Santa Cruz, CA and plan to use the unit around my ranch, trimming/topping trees and such. None of my roads are greater than 20% grade so I believe this 4x4 unit should handle them okay - tell me if I'm wrong. I believe I'll have to position the unit on not greater than 5 degrees out of level to operate, correct?

I have only been able to find specs for the 2x4 model and have had no luck finding an operator's manual to research, any help there would be appreciated.

 

[flingwing]

Picture

Here are a couple of low-res shots of the unit I'm considering.

 

[willie59]

Hi flingwing. I've worked on the MZ66A, don't have any experience with the B series. Looks like they leaned them down a bit though, counterweight is smaller, tires/wheels are smaller, I'd guess by looking at the pics the B is lighter than the A. Good thing, the A was heavy as an anvil. Is there any way you could get pics of the inside and outside of upper and lower control boxes?

Can't remember Grove gradablility specs, but comparable JLG machines are rated at 25% max grade, and the machines are similar. I see it's a propane or dual fuel engine, since you're in California, make certain the exhaust has an approved spark arrestor on it.

MinnPar now owns the parts/support rights to Grove aerial lifts. They may be able to provide you with manuals. BTW, all aerial machines are required to have the Operators Manual and ANSI handbook on the machine at all times.


http://www.minnpar.com/

 

[barklee]

Looks like a clean rig! I may be mistaken but the fed. govt had somewhere around 100 of these machines for sale last year...? Might want to ask the seller if it came from that sale, those lifts only had like 100-200 hrs if i remember correctly. If that is the case those machines had set unused for several years. Might be a great thing, might not be. Does it have a wisconsin engine or ford? They might have put the old Nissans in those too.
I used to have the 40' straight boom model that looked almost similar to that one. That machine we had was decent all but the wisconsin engine. Also it was worn out when we bought it so what can i expect!
I know parts are fairly high priced for these machines so thats something to take into consideration. There is a company that used to have these in there rental fleet and they told me that the 'T' series machines where very reliable but the older models were hit and miss.
With man lifts i truely believe that it is all in how it was maintained and what kind of enviroment it was used in (i.e. corrosive). So i guess if it was me i would look very closely as all the wiring inside the upper and lower control panels and make sure nobody has been Jerry rigging and there arent any spare wires being used, also that there isnt an extreme amount of corrosion or rust on wiring/ terminals. Also, check all the inner rims and make sure they are dry, might have a drive motor leaking or hub seal. Run the machine and try to see that the controls are smooth and the proportion is working (controllers can get pretty expensive). Check also the rotex gear and swing drive motor (i bought a lift that had teeth sheared off the swing motor........ not a good thing at 60' in the air)
Oh also what are the hours on the machine??

Best of luck:drinkup

 

[flingwing]

Mx66b

Thanks all for the useful advice. I haven't inspected the machine yet but will be doing so in the next week or so. I don't know the hours yet, am waiting for a reply from the owner. I know it was purchased to use in the construction of a large home and is now no longer needed. It was used regularly during construction (talked to a contractor) which sounds good. I'll take any advice I can get, I don't need a $6k boat anchor. I have a couple hundred eucalyptus trees to limb and drop and I thought this might be the best option for me. Lot's of other chores for it around here in the future too.

The specs for the 2x4 66B show a 25% gradablility so I'm thinking the 4x4 should be around 40 - that seems to be the way the JLGs run anyway. Am I wrong there? Of course I'll check it out when I look at the machine.

I think it has the Nissan engine, simply because that's what the brochure I have says. Here's a picture of the outside of the control panel.

 

[willie59]

One thing you need to do before you purchase it is check out the drive characteristics. It is 4WD, but it's a rigid frame, no articulating axle. You need to drive it over some uneven terrain, even getting one wheel off the ground and see how it reacts. I wouldn't purchase the machine until I was covinced it would handle uneven terrain.

 

[flingwing]

Great point! Thanks again.

 

[norite]

Never operated a GROVE exactly like this but other models and manf. are similar. These machines are meant to operate on level ground, period. Probably not the best machine unless your area is really flat. If grade/tilt is excessive it may limit operation (descent only, travel stop, alarms going off etc.). You don't want to operate this thing if it has one wheel off the ground, it will be unstable.

I'd look for a bucket truck for use on uneven terrain.

 

[flingwing]

:notworthy Thanks again to all who helped me with my search. I've decided that, although this is a good deal on a nice machine, it might no serve my needs here in the mountains. I'm looking at a 42' tow behind electric unit now, probably a beter choice, albeit not nearly as cool.

 

[willie59]

I live in the mountains near Santa Cruz, CA and plan to use the unit around my ranch, trimming/topping trees and such. None of my roads are greater than 20% grade so I believe this 4x4 unit should handle them okay - tell me if I'm wrong. I believe I'll have to position the unit on not greater than 5 degrees out of level to operate, correct?

These machines are meant to operate on level ground, period. Probably not the best machine unless your area is really flat. If grade/tilt is excessive it may limit operation (descent only, travel stop, alarms going off etc.). You don't want to operate this thing if it has one wheel off the ground, it will be unstable.

Hi norite, after reading your post, I thought I should clarify my words so as to not be misunderstood by some reader. My previous comments about the machine being rated at a 25% grade, and checking the 4WD characteristics by driving over uneven ground were directed solely to driving the machine, not after the machine is set and boom operations begin. Yes, all aerial lifts are designed to be operated at no greater than 5% out of level. Not only does excessive out of level make it unsafe, but it puts excessive pressure on the swing system. The operators manual on any brand aerial lift will clearly state that the machine should be operated of flat/level ground and all 4 tires should be in contact with the ground. The nice thing about an articulated axle machine is that it allows movement of the steering axle which will adjust wheel footing to account for slight uneveness of the ground.


flingwing, if you choose a tow behind lift, such as BilJax/Workforce or American Eagle, they become really difficult to set up on unlevel ground with their screw jack outriggers, and they have to be level or the safety sensors won't allow the machine to operate. JLG and I believe Genie are now making tow behind machines that have self leveling outriggers, but these are models within the last recent years, still fairly new, don't know that you could find one at a "bargain" price.

 

[barklee]

Tow behind lifts are really only for a small weekend type project. As said earlier they are slow operating and a pain to set up.
Seems to me a bucket truck might be the closest fit. They operate faster than a man lift and are easier to set up than a tow behind. Plus the tow behind isnt self propelled which is a bit more of a challange than a bucket or lift.
If you shop even a little bit you can find 52' hi rangers for 5000-7000. Also the older booms 1996 and earlier are very simple to work on (much easier than a boom lift anyhow)
From a workability standpoint i would much rather work out of a bucket truck than anything else when it comes to triming trees and things of that nature!!

 

[flingwing]

Thanks Again to all

I understood you all about working from level ground, no more than 5 degrees out of level, the gradibility issue is related to my 1 mile road going from 450 feet to 1400 feet as one climbs the ridgeline.

Bil-Jax also makes units with hydraulic outriggers, but as all observed, the price puts them out of my range. I considered a bucket truck but really don't need another truck to register and insure. I work pretty much alone, with help from my hard-working wife hauling and loading, and I'm retired so if I get four to six trees dropped a day (they grow close as hairs on a dog), I'm happy.

Anyway, I just bought a 4232 Bil-Jax with 118 hours on it for less than $3500. I've used the manual outrigger machines before so I know what to expect. Still great advice from all and it is much appreciated.:usa

 

[barklee]

Im glad you found something that works for you. I have heard Bil-jax makes the best tow behinds.

 

[willie59]

Bil-Jax does make a good reliable unit, I've worked on a number of them. One thing you need, no, must do, if you're going to set it up on soil is to make some sturdy and wide pads to set the outrigger pads on. Those unit depend on the outriggers to keep it in the air, and solid footing is critical.

 

[flingwing]

Sound advice my friend. I have a 5x9 sheet of 1/4 inch steel that I plan on using to make 2x2 pads out of, with 2 inch square tubing to keep it ridged, that should do nicely, don't you think?

 

[willie59]

Sound advice my friend. I have a 5x9 sheet of 1/4 inch steel that I plan on using to make 2x2 pads out of, with 2 inch square tubing to keep it ridged, that should do nicely, don't you think?

That sounds better than those little feets they have on the outriggers.

Be sure and fabricate somthing that the outrigger feet will fit into and not allow them to slip on the steel pads.