JD 410C shooting dipstick because I'm an idiot

[Seaward]

Hopefully the experienced here can help me proceed without causing any further problems. I fired up the backhoe after an inactive winter and although I checked the oil and hydraulic fluid I forgot to check the coolant. I was moving material around and grading for a few hours and thought it seemed to be running hot but was stubbornly trying to wrap up what I was doing. Anyway as I was shuttling one of the last loads I heard a release of pressure and a good amount of whitish smoke came from the engine compartment. The engine cut out at the time of the pressure release.

When I opened the engine compartment the dipstick had shot out of its tube. Of course then I checked the coolant and it was very low possibly empty. I checked the oil afterwards and the level is full and appears normal not milky that I can tell from the dipstick.

My plan was to drain the oil make sure there is no sign of coolant in there and if not change the oil and filter. Flush the coolant system and refill. Then start it back up check for leaks and get back to work. Does this sound like a reasonable way forward or any other ideas.

 

[Delmer]

I'd check for any condensation on the oil filler cap, dipstick tube, etc. Loosen the oil drain plug and let it drip for a while to see if there's oil or water coming out. And then keep a close eye that the oil doesn't turn milky, or bubble/boil/hiss when you drip it on a hot manifold or burner. Fill the radiator, antifreeze or water if it's above freezing and see if it holds water. No use flushing it or changing oil at this point.

Could also pressure test the radiator/system the way it sits, or drain the coolant to see how much you get out or how much you have to add to see how low you are now,

 

[AndrewC]

Also check your breather tube for obstruction. Hopefully its nothing more than that but doing an oil change certianlly wont hurt

 

[OldandWorn]

Hope it's not, but sounds serious from the symptoms that you mentioned. I agree, at this point I wouldn't change the oil or flush until you get a better handle on what happened.

 

[big04cummins]

If your dipstick pushed out that implies that there is crankcase pressure which is most commonly cause by the "blow by" tube becoming blocked. That is where I would start since you said it had been sitting all winter.

 

[Seaward]

Ok so I think I got lucky. Looked into it today. Drained some oil from the pan and it looks clean no sign of water or coolant. Filled the radiator with water and didn't find any leaks. Did some poking around and noticed one of the two serpintine belts had broken and the remaining one was quite loose. I tightened the remaining belt and started the machine it ran with no signs of knocking or leaks until up to temp and the water pump kicked on. At that point I moved the load that was in the bucket when this happened last night and parked the machine. It seemed to be running great.

I think what happened is the machine was probably low on coolant to begin with but while under load the belt must have been slipping and not letting the fan cool the radiator enough. That and the low fluid I think caused the radiator to blow off the excess pressure/steam. I think that's what the pressure release I heard was. I am thinking the dipstick pushing out must have happened before that and I just didn't notice it. Possibly because the oil was too hot and expanded. I will check the breather just to be thorough and change the oil since it got so hot. I'll also check the drained oil to make sure after today's running there is still no sign of coolant. Obviously I need to change both serpintine belts as well but I'll keep an eye on the one belt until I get the chance.

Does this all sound good or is there anything else I might be missing? I think I got real lucky, one day I'll get past learning everything the hard way. Any idea on how stupid it is or isn't to do some material shuttling and grading with one serpintine belt until I get the chance to replace both?

 

[Delmer]

until up to temp and the water pump kicked on.

What does that mean? the thermostat opened???

Yeah, sounds like you got lucky, if it had been really low it wouldn't have made it an hour before doing some damage. I'd run it as long as you want with one belt, unless the downtime when it does break will hurt you more than doing it now. You do have a working alternator warning light right? that will light up pretty quick if the belt breaks. I'm assuming you're talking about a pair of V belts, right? I got a pair from the dealer in the last year for thirty something, no way I'd put a generic belt in with the trouble it takes to slide the pump drive forward and get the belt in between the coupler. Replace the rubber donut gear in there too, $12? I still wouldn't change the oil until it's due, one hour of running hot is nothing for oil.