Leaking Fuel return line

[Gugu]

Bobcat 863, 1997: it looks like that one of the braided diesel fuel return hoses is leaking where it is connected to the fuel injector. There’s no clamp, the hose is just shoved on top of the fuel injector. It’s about 3 inches long. If I just remove the old hose and put a new one on, do I have to vent/bleed the fuel lines? How, with the bulb you press by hand? Is there a great risk of fire? I can’t get the replacement hose right away? Thank you in advance.

 

[thepumpguysc]

U do not have to bleed anything..
It’s hard to judge about the leak and a possible fire.. ur gonna have to make that call..
If it’s on the exhaust manifold side, shut it down and fix the leak before starting any jobs..

 

[Gugu]

U do not have to bleed anything..
It’s hard to judge about the leak and a possible fire.. ur gonna have to make that call..
If it’s on the exhaust manifold side, shut it down and fix the leak before starting any jobs..

Thank you. It’s the second aside the exhaust and the fuel is mainly dripping down to the bottom of the fuel injector. I bought a clamp and I’ll try to get it in there and see whether it will stop the leak. No bleeding because it’s the return line?

 

[willie59]

Pretty common for Deutz engines of that age. That's a metric fuel hose, you really need to obtain a foot or two of that hose from a Deutz distributor and replace those return lines. After all, if that piece is aged and leaking, the others aren't far behind.

 

[Gugu]

Okay, thanks for your responses. For sure I going to get the replacement hoses. But I can’t get it right away, so I need an intermediate fix. I will apply some duct tape around it and try to add a clamp.

 

[TVA]

Bobcat 863, 1997: it looks like that one of the braided diesel fuel return hoses is leaking where it is connected to the fuel injector. There’s no clamp, the hose is just shoved on top of the fuel injector. It’s about 3 inches long. If I just remove the old hose and put a new one on, do I have to vent/bleed the fuel lines? How, with the bulb you press by hand? Is there a great risk of fire? I can’t get the replacement hose right away? Thank you in

Okay, thanks for your responses. For sure I going to get the replacement hoses. But I can’t get it right away, so I need an intermediate fix. I will apply some duct tape around it and try to add a clamp.

I bought “aftermarket” kit once. It looked like wiper washer tubes. It lasted a few days.

 

[TVA]

And get ready for oil cooler tubes - those usually follow.

 

[TVA]

Wait a minute! Does that thing have Deutz or Kubota?

 

[thepumpguysc]

Lol.. it’s not the worst patch I’ve seen..
I hope it works..

 

[willie59]

863 was fitted with Deutz BF4M1011F

 

[Gugu]

Thanks everyone! Got a new fuel line and the problem is solved.

But I got a new problem: looks like today the alternator didn’t charge the battery while operating. It wasn’t a problem when I used the machine yesterday and even last week I measured it and I got 14.xx V but today only 11.89 V… can I just tighten the belt (has at least 1/2“ play) or do I need a new alternator? Or do I need new brushes for the alternato? Thanks!

 

[Gugu]

And get ready for oil cooler tubes - those usually follow.

Got those already exchanged…

 

[Gugu]

Lol.. it’s not the worst patch I’ve seen..
I hope it works..

Nope, didn’t work…

 

[thepumpguysc]

BEFORE I spent a few hundred dollars on an alt.. I’d be tightening up a belt..

 

[Gugu]

BEFORE I spent a few hundred dollars on an alt.. I’d be tightening up a belt..

How tight is tight?

 

[TVA]

Thanks everyone! Got a new fuel line and the problem is solved.

But I got a new problem: looks like today the alternator didn’t charge the battery while operating. It wasn’t a problem when I used the machine yesterday and even last week I measured it and I got 14.xx V but today only 11.89 V… can I just tighten the belt (has at least 1/2“ play) or do I need a new alternator? Or do I need new brushes for the alternato? Thanks!

Those suckers expensive as heck!
Inspect the small harness that goes behind the alternator. It goes to alternator, oil temperature sensor, oil pressure sensor, fuel shut down solenoid etc. insulation on those deteriorating and failing apart approximately the same time as return and oil tubes.
As far as I remember the connection for it clicks in to sheet metal. You’ll have to remove cooling shroud cover to get to it

 

[willie59]

Fortunately, on that machine the alternator is external and on the door side of the engine, easy to get to. Make sure you have battery power on the battery terminal of the alternator, then with engine running you should see a voltage signal on the exciter wire going to the alternator. If you don't have power on the exciter wire it won't charge.

 

[Welder Dave]

Just last fall I had a weird thing happen with the alternator in my skid steer. It's a 2 wire Leece Neville that replaced the original. I started the machine and normally the charge light stays on until you give it some throttle. After that it stays off on idle. Well one day the charge light never went off. I checked voltage and it wasn't charging. I couldn't see anything wrong but shut it off. I started the machine back up a few minutes later and after giving it some throttle the light went out. I checked voltage again and it was around 14 volts. Have no idea what would cause it to not charge the one time? Thought maybe dust in the alternator or something but it was very strange. Hasn't done it since.

 

[Gugu]

Thanks everyone for your input. I tighten the alternator belt and recharged the battery with the negative cable disconnected. Battery voltage went up to 13.3 V, but dropped over night to 12.78 V. When I tried to start the machine, the starter wouldn’t turn. I assume pre-glowing takes the voltage of the battery down further and there isn’t enough left to start. I boosted it and machine started right away. The alternator did charge the battery again while running (14.xx V) and battery was over 13 V after I shut down the machine. Unfortunately, over night the battery voltage drops to 12.7 V. Interestingly, my battery maintainer also can’t keep the battery above 12.5 V. I guess I need a new battery. Thanks again for your input!

 

[Welder Dave]

Battery sitting should be 12.5 to 12.8 volts. Sometimes can be 12.4 and still be good. Your battery might not be the problem. Best to load test it.