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Multimeter recommendation

Birken Vogt

Charter Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2003
Messages
5,305
Location
Grass Valley, Ca
Speaking of analog meters, sometimes a non- low impedance ohm meter is the tool for the job
Fluke makes a 116 or 117 or something that has an additional setting for low-z. With my experience I don't really "need" that function but I had one the other day where it could have been useful. Very weak voltage coming through and if it was loaded, dropped to zero. Lo-z would have told the tale a little faster.

Otherwise, hi-z is what you need for not disturbing readings while taking them.
 

nowing75

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2009
Messages
898
Location
coatesville indiana
I just use the basic Pico 2204A 2 channel. I just wanted a really fast voltmeter, which is what a scope is. It also has a signal generator which I have used to test speed sensor wiring by providing an alternative signal to the ECU. I like to use it for CAN testing as well. The Pico software is free and the hardware is about $150. Add things like longer leads, attenuators (because the 2204 has a 20V input max), 100:1 lead (same reason) and amp clamps, my total cost was below $500. There is a YouTuber called Mechanic Mindset, who shows you how to use the 2204 for automotive use. That has been a help, since I didn't want to fry my unit.

At my age, I don't plan on spending any more money for things like this, however I am intrigued by this little scope below. Have not researched it much, but the reviews are pretty good. For $125, I tempted to buy one to try it. With the Pico, setting up with the laptop, hardware and leads can sometimes be a PINA. That is why I always grab my Fluke first. My scope is for those really difficult intermittent problems and it is worth the setup time when it helps you solve those mysteries.

HANMATEK scope
I also have pulse sensor you can use to see blow by in a particular cylinder, also put on rad cap to find if you have pulse from a head gasket, need to Triger off a cylinder so you can tell witch one is bad.
 

funwithfuel

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 7, 2017
Messages
5,519
Location
Will county Illinois
Occupation
Mechanic
I had the 86 for 30 years, till the display failed for keeps. Company replaced it with the 88 seriesV. I also have a 23 IS for working in haz-mat environments. Got a cheapo Extech with IR temp measure, and for graphing, I'm still using an ancient Snap-On Vantage.
Ironically, I spent an hour on the phone with one of their techs a couple weeks ago. He was asking for feedback on products. I like Fluke. I know they're cost-prohibitive. It's hard to match the speed and quality
 

mx727

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 5, 2012
Messages
68
Location
Memphis
I had a meter that was giving real screwy readings. Figured it was junk. Got a new one and then someone mentioned the leads. Sure enough, a new set of leads and the first meter is good as new.
 

Camshawn

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
585
Location
Langley BC
Occupation
retired
You should always check your leads (ohms scale) before you use your meter, always. If you are testing something to verify that it is off and your lead is broken, ………..Cam
 

mx727

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 5, 2012
Messages
68
Location
Memphis
You should always check your leads (ohms scale) before you use your meter, always. If you are testing something to verify that it is off and your lead is broken, ………..Cam

Agree, I was checking resistance and actually ended up doing what you are saying, but I thought it was the meter. Never imagined that the leads could go bad. Now I know.
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,865
Location
WI
If it's acting screwy testing both leads, test one at a time. Then you only have to replace the bad lead:)
 
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