Stupid Question of the Day

[willie59]

Sorry about being slow to get back to ya shane, in chatroom right now.

Lift one end of tracks with bucket, place 6 x 6 or equivelent blocks under tracks on that end. Swing around, lift opposite end of tracks and place blocks. Now you can get under machine. Can't say for sure about your machine as I've never seen one of that brand, but most swivels work best dropping them out the bottom. Don't mean yours will be that way though. As for the mystery seals, in most cases, you can find appropriate replacements. But in some odd cases, a little machine work and a good seal supplier can come up with alternatives to weird seals. As for oil, who knows. A good quality hyd oil should work fine. I use typical AW hyd oil (Anti Wear), it just depends on the viscosity needed. I use an AW32 in my area. But if your in a hight temp climate, you might want to use AW46. It would be good to get some input from other Aussies; Squizzy, RocksnRoses, or Hendrick, as well as numerous Aussies I'm not thinking of right now. Please do keep us updated.

 

[hokuto]

not at all you have been anything but slow
thanks for your help it has given me enough confidence to get on with the job
i will keep you informed
shane

 

[kansasssnova]

I have a 690b jd excavator wont start (motor locked up) need to get from there to home on lowboy how do i move this 38000 lbs onto and off trailer

 

[willie59]

Welcome to the forum kansasssnova. :usa

Unless boom is in stowed position and bucket is off the ground, your in a world of hurt. If it is stowed, only thing you can do is remove the drive motors from the planetary drives and use other machines to move the dead beast. Not going to be a fast/easy project.

 

[joispoi]

Is there any reason you can't take a small portable hydraulic pump (jaws of life type)and tie it into the system in place of the factory pumps? It would be painfully slow to operate, but I can't see why it wouldn't work. Anyone have thoughts on this?:beatsme

 

[Jam]

Great idea in theory but in reality plumbing into a lifting ram is probably all that would be practical...opening off the other side of the rams and leave the excess oil drain into something. Easiest fix with a dead duck is lift the dipper off and dismantle the final drives im afraid

 

[hokuto]

Pleased to inform you all that on removal and dismantle all went well.

as can be seen in the accompanying photos its a fairly straight forward design
should be no problems getting the correct o rings and single cup seal

my only query is that the top end of cylinder bore does have some wear
being the result of sand etc getting past cup seal and wearing the bearing surface and o ring hence the oil leak

i plan to lightly hone the bore
hoping the new o rings can cope with that being done

to prevent this happening in the future i will fit a plastic disc to try and keep some of the muck from sitting on top of the cup seal it seems to be a flaw in the design

any suggestions would be gladly accepted:drinkup

 

[Arabhacks]

Excallent idea!

Hello.

I really do like your idea of a bit of plastic to keep the crud out.
And, the worst design for a swivel has to be the older gradalls.
I do dearly love operating that machine, but some of its design makes one wonder. :Banghead

 

[hokuto]

I imagine that when the center is fitted with its new o rings
it will take considerable force to insert it into the cylinder !
would it be best done in a press?
Apart from lubricating with some hyd oil is there any other suggestions on reassembly?

 

[willie59]

Looks good hokuto.

As long as the groove worn in it isn't too deep, it should seal just fine for ya with a little polishing. Any good assembly grease will do when fitting together. I use Loctite Viper Lube. I've also used Lubriplate 105 assembling seals. You don't want to use a press to put it together if you can help it. A press takes away the "feel" of fitting the o-rings. They're usually not too bad to fit together. One thing you can do is heat up the outer housing in a pot of water on a hot plate or stove. Don't really have to get to boiling temp, but warming it up will make it expand. Pull it out of the pot of water, wipe dry, apply assembly grease, and slip it onto the center joint with o-rings. Should work ok for ya.

 

[hokuto]

thanks for the advice
i will give that a try
regards
shane

 

[hokuto]

Further to my task
I have all the bits needed to re assemble
turned out a little difficult to get the proper o rings most of the suppliers were happy to supply an imperial size o ring which was obviously under the original size finally found company "BSC motion technology" who had experienced staff and supplied the correct metric sized o ring with additional attention to the correct hardness value to boot !!

I have honed the cylinder
My next quandary is that the finish inside the cylinder is exactly what would suit combustion chamber /ring assembly but i feel it is a little abrasive for the O ring assembly

Few years ago i reconditioned a hydraulic ram on my FEL and used the same hone on it
and at that time felt the same about the finish

on that occasion i decided to try and polish it by various cut and polish / abrasive household cleaner pastes etc
so far the ram has stood the test of time and worked fine

Do you think it necessary to try and polish this job before assembly?
the hone stones are of medium grit nothing too radical but seems to me not quite the effect i am after any suggestions
regards
shane

 

[hokuto]

Done and dusted
job completed last week
dug heaps
no leaks
on and upward
thanks for your help

 

[willie59]

Good to hear ya got it working mate.

Sorry I didn't respond to your last post. For a while I quit getting email alterts to threads, then one day, started getting them again. I guess that's when you made your post, must have missed it. :beatsme