Hi…. Curious if you figured out a cause of the glitter in your return side? Some people say that a little glitter is normal?
I have a return tank with the filter bathed in the tank oil. I noticed some glitter in mine. I’m curious if that is normal and if the filter side is doing what it is supposed to do? I noticed the glitter on my initial 250hr rerun filter change.
Well unfortunately I don't have any good news. As far as the glitter in my main hydraulic filter, I wish I had taken pictures for you, but it was pretty thick. Small pieces, but when pouring oil out of the filter, it was constant silver glitter almost like glitter glue. If you just have a little bit, it may be normal. I've seen a lot of people say some is normal and to just keep an eye on it. I think mine came from the gear pump as you'll see below. I also had some brass in my case drain filter. About a quarter's worth. Rechecked after maybe 5 more hours of running and found the same amount again. I suspect the brass is coming from my drive pump.
I'll post a longer update in case anyone is seeing similar problems.
Shortly after asking the above question I began to lose lift/tilt after a few minutes of running. A while after that, drive issues under load began to develop.
It got to the point where my right stick pushes back to me when trying to move just the right track forward or backwards. I couldn't go up hill or move with a load at all. At the same time, my charge pressure would slowly drop to 0 while trying to move.
I pulled the gear pump, it was heavily scored on the inside. There are brass colored gaskets inside of it, one of those was breaking apart. After replacing it the overall charge pressure went up to spec at full throttle idle ~400 and my sound went away, but the right track movement issue continued.
I initially suspected the drive motor, but I found out it was pretty new and has less than 20 hours on it (replaced before I bought it). So I capped off the drive motor lines at the tandem drive pump and tried to move the right stick again. Same issue. No change in engine rpm, just the stick pushing back and dropping charge pressure. My understanding of this test from speaking with Bobcat techs is that if your drive pump is good, the engine should try to stall out like you are trying to push too much load.
That leads me to where I'm at now. Pulling the tandem pump. I'm doing it without pulling the engine and am at the point of removing the pulley which seems possible with a modified pulley puller. I'll update the thread after I get it out and rebuilt with how I did it for future reference to those who have similar issues.
On a side note, I also have auxiliary hydraulic issues (because why not). My aux only works in one direction. My grapple bucket will open, but won't close. It throws a 27-03 code: Front rod output error off, Front rod output signal wire #4330 voltage not present when voltage expected. I tried replacing the control handle on my right side since the old one was messed up. That did give me my trigger functionality back that I didn't realize was also missing until hooking up the new one, but same error with the hall effect switch for aux direction. I've checked continuity between the handle to the controller, controller to solenoids, all good. Swapped solenoids, problem stayed on the same side. Swapped stems, problem stayed. If I plug the other aux solenoids connector into the problem solenoid, it will function correctly and the grapple will close when I hit the open button. So I've definitely narrowed it down to either wiring or the controller.
I was initially under the impression that there is a separate PWM controller, but I can't seem to find one. I have yet to trace the wires completely, but it appears to me that it is all done through the main controller. If I could get confirmation on that, it would be helpful. I'll be working on this more when the drive pump is being rebuilt or I'm getting one shipped.
If anyone could offer input on the electrical stuff that'd be great. I'm starting to think I may have a faulty controller with the way my luck has been going. I may just wire up a toggle switch between the open and close solenoids to decide which solenoid to send the signal to as my funds are pretty tied up in the pumps at this point. I know I can't just send 10v's to the solenoids as they need pwm signals, but if I take the same pwm signal that's going to the open solenoid(I know this isn't a technical term) and toggle it to the close solenoid, I guess that would work for now.
If anyone has any input on either issue, it would be greatly appreciated.
