Update on my project PT100:
- Parasitic draw and screwy voltage was a missing diode in the fuse box that someone put a fuse in instead and a bad diode in the alternator from the wiring diagram being wrong.
- Ordered nipples and have heat hooked up now. They had plugs where nipples were supposed to be. If anyone else runs into it, one goes on back of water pump and other on side of the head, just in front of the temperature sensor near the front.
- Temperature sensor on side of the head that is on the side with the fuel pump is for the cold start circuit. It works opposite the way of a "normal" temperature sensor. It is closed circuit when cold and then opens as engine warms up.
- Temperature sensor for the gauge is on driver's side, front of the head and is part # 2848A126 easy to find anywhere. ( I got mine on Amazon for around $11
- Ordered and installed oil pressure sensor.
- Blower fan noise was mud dobber wasp nests in the cage fans. Cleaned and quiet now.
Other electrical was online wire schematic all messed up and wrong. I posted some corrections on another thread and will post one here when I'm done but I think I just found another issue where it's wrong. I'm going to start another thread and ask because I'm stumped. Pin 86 on both the Aux Hyd relays have constant power, even with the key off. This causes them to be warm since they are energized constantly even though there's no voltage anywhere else to pass through unless key is on. According to the schematic, the other end of the wire splits and goes to the momentary switches and the low hydraulic switch. I have no voltage when off at the low hydraulic switch so that wire isn't going there like the schematic claims. I can't get to the connector for the right joystick to check the momentary switches without taking throttle apart, covers off etc so hoping to find better way and someone else knowing the correct wiring but it would make sense that they do tie together so when switch is on, the momentary switches are enabled.
- Turns out the previous owner put a 1104D engine in instead of a 1104C. Mine also has extra return fuel lines. One fitting is missing a lock so waiting on that, and a longer radiator hose since this one is too short so the fan hits it which is why the old fan had chipped blades.
*** Take your back window guard knobs loose and put anti seize on them. Mine were stuck and I broke my knobs getting them loose to change my rear window. One got stuck in the middle contraption that goes between the two knobs. It a 1-1/2" piece of metal and they want $400+ for it. Took me all day and never did get one side out so just drilled it out and retapped new threads.
- Parasitic draw and screwy voltage was a missing diode in the fuse box that someone put a fuse in instead and a bad diode in the alternator from the wiring diagram being wrong.
- Ordered nipples and have heat hooked up now. They had plugs where nipples were supposed to be. If anyone else runs into it, one goes on back of water pump and other on side of the head, just in front of the temperature sensor near the front.
- Temperature sensor on side of the head that is on the side with the fuel pump is for the cold start circuit. It works opposite the way of a "normal" temperature sensor. It is closed circuit when cold and then opens as engine warms up.
- Temperature sensor for the gauge is on driver's side, front of the head and is part # 2848A126 easy to find anywhere. ( I got mine on Amazon for around $11
- Ordered and installed oil pressure sensor.
- Blower fan noise was mud dobber wasp nests in the cage fans. Cleaned and quiet now.
Other electrical was online wire schematic all messed up and wrong. I posted some corrections on another thread and will post one here when I'm done but I think I just found another issue where it's wrong. I'm going to start another thread and ask because I'm stumped. Pin 86 on both the Aux Hyd relays have constant power, even with the key off. This causes them to be warm since they are energized constantly even though there's no voltage anywhere else to pass through unless key is on. According to the schematic, the other end of the wire splits and goes to the momentary switches and the low hydraulic switch. I have no voltage when off at the low hydraulic switch so that wire isn't going there like the schematic claims. I can't get to the connector for the right joystick to check the momentary switches without taking throttle apart, covers off etc so hoping to find better way and someone else knowing the correct wiring but it would make sense that they do tie together so when switch is on, the momentary switches are enabled.
- Turns out the previous owner put a 1104D engine in instead of a 1104C. Mine also has extra return fuel lines. One fitting is missing a lock so waiting on that, and a longer radiator hose since this one is too short so the fan hits it which is why the old fan had chipped blades.
*** Take your back window guard knobs loose and put anti seize on them. Mine were stuck and I broke my knobs getting them loose to change my rear window. One got stuck in the middle contraption that goes between the two knobs. It a 1-1/2" piece of metal and they want $400+ for it. Took me all day and never did get one side out so just drilled it out and retapped new threads.