• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

TL130 Fuel Stop Solenoid

drummer0901

Active Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2019
Messages
38
Location
TN
Glad to say, New gauge cluster fixed the issue, hated it costs so much, but hopefully this is behind me! Thanks for the help everyone!
 

drummer0901

Active Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2019
Messages
38
Location
TN
Well, I'm back and feel link the nightware wont end. Had the machine out after installing the Cluster and both relays, and the machine just stopped, no hydraulics, or movement, but it runs.

Went back next day, got the machine moved back to the garage, realized if I hit the float switch, it would stop. Also no horn.

So today I dig into the horn issue, found a suspect wire at the fuse block, repaired and hoped this would fix my issue. Horn works, it runs, but wont move, and now my battery light is flashing.

One of the relays buzzes at times. Just at a loss. Anyone have ideas?
 

Toddgarage

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2022
Messages
80
Location
S.E. Michigan
Occupation
Construction, welding/fabrication, operator
You’re not alone when it comes to chasing electrical issues on machines.
We have a TL 10 where the float switch is working properly for the first minute of operation (cold only, restarts do not fix the issue). The arms raise property, but the moment you use the joystick to bring the arms down the float function brings the arms down without control until you pull back on the joystick to pause the float function. (Float light not illuminated on cluster.)
We have chased wires, swapped relays and tried not to involve the parts cannon yet.

Years about we had a TL130 and TL140. Both ran strong but the electrical was always a challenge. Sometimes giving the relay panel in front of the operators feet a kick would solve everything.
My best advice.
-check the battery. There is heavy vibration and loose connections was our issue a few times.
-safely lift operators cab and visually inspect for damage. Start the machine and wiggle different wiring harnesses to locate the issue. *you can put the lap bar down and start, even move the machine while the cab is up. Be extremely careful, there is a safety pin for the cab when up.*
-test light all the fuses. I’ve had fuses visually look good and not work.
-it’s uncommon, check lap bar safety circuit

Hope this helps
 

drummer0901

Active Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2019
Messages
38
Location
TN
Yeah a little encouragement goes a long way. I’ll get the wiring diagram another look. Looks like the circuit goes thru the charge circuit, then the arm float circuit. I have not tested to make sure the alternator is charging, battery light blinks then is off. But float circuit doesn’t work, and the machine won’t move. I’ll Make sure the safety bar switch is working too.

Thanks
 

Toddgarage

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2022
Messages
80
Location
S.E. Michigan
Occupation
Construction, welding/fabrication, operator
I’m on my way to sort out electrical gremlins in the TL10 today. If I find something fun… I’ll post a picture of the issue(s).
 

Toddgarage

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2022
Messages
80
Location
S.E. Michigan
Occupation
Construction, welding/fabrication, operator
When you find a bunch of non-factory zip ties and butt splice in the belly pan mud… you know someone with expert repair skills has been limping the machine along after each major breakdown. Cheers to all the electrical gremlins out there.
 

Attachments

  • 45A4119E-7AA0-4E8D-89B9-2312915FB0A4.jpeg
    45A4119E-7AA0-4E8D-89B9-2312915FB0A4.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 16
  • C8F40BC7-A375-4DA9-8606-49708A095972.jpeg
    C8F40BC7-A375-4DA9-8606-49708A095972.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 17

drummer0901

Active Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2019
Messages
38
Location
TN
I made that mistake before I bought the gauge cluster. Just hoping my hot wiring skills didn’t ruin other systems. It smoked the fuel stop solenoid, got that fixed, it runs, just intermittent when it wants to move.
 

Toddgarage

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2022
Messages
80
Location
S.E. Michigan
Occupation
Construction, welding/fabrication, operator
After finding wiring fairly damaged on my TL10 project, went back to the basics. The alternator is going wild, pushing 18.5 bolts at the battery.

We bought the digital copy of the service manual. It’s amazing, it’s very detailed. Make sure your searching your correct serial number and some features may not be on your machine.
 

drummer0901

Active Member
Joined
Feb 17, 2019
Messages
38
Location
TN
Well I started today checking the battery, good , lapbar switch….intermittent.
Started checking fuses, float arm fuse tested intermittent. Looked a little crusty but I could get it to test if I moved the probes around a little. replaced with a new one and all is well, only to have a leaky radiator hose and starting to get hot. I’ll take the win on the electrical. Thanks for all the help everyone.
 

Toddgarage

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 13, 2022
Messages
80
Location
S.E. Michigan
Occupation
Construction, welding/fabrication, operator
Very nice. Compact track loaders see heavy vibrations transferred when operating on hard surfaces.

If you have a temperature sensor in the upper radiator house coupling. Replace it when it’s looking iffy. It was the source of 2 machines having the triangle warning shut down.
Be safe, keep the tracks dirt side.
 
Top