Welder Dave
Senior Member
There's no rental outfits near you?
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Tow behind padfoot/sheepsfoot compactor
- Thread starter ippielb
- Start date
1693TA
Senior Member
I've used these wires in the past and they're available in .045".
Welder Dave
Senior Member
I think he needs 15lb 8" spools to fit his machine. I posted earlier of a Dual-shield wire that would work for him. Being that he welds outside sometimes stick would be the best solution and having DC current is so much easier to use, especially for out of position welds.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
I hope you got it for less than $350. It's equivalent to an AC225 Lincoln. I've used a Forney and will say it was better than a Miller Thunderbolt. I saw an Acklands/Miller Dialarc 250 AC/DC somewhere in Sask. for $1000 but that's a little high. If it came with decent cables maybe $750. It is more than twice the machine the Forney is. I wonder if putting an add on Kijiji looking for an Idealarc or Dialarc might turn up something?
This is the welder, not some cheap Chinese junk like the new forneys. Will have to wait and see what the electrician can find out. In the mean time i'll get all my mud scrapers cut out.
I did go to the store and found grade 5 all thread. 3/4", i got 9 feet of it. still debating on how i will mount the scrapers. The flat plates that were holding the shanks onto the cultivator, well i just cut them all off. I'm thinking i'll flip them upside down and then use those to sandwich the scrapers tight.
I just seen a post online saying that one guy couldn't get his forney welder to run ac/dc 7018's, could strictly only run AC 7018 rods
1693TA
Senior Member
Yup. Even with my suitcase feeder and engine drive, stick certainly still finds a lot of use for me. So much less setup time is just one facet, as is consumable cost much less for a small repair job.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
I saw an Idealarc in Alberta asking $300. Another nicer looking one asking $700 and a couple good looking newer Dialarc's around the same price, 1 even had a remote control. An Acklands branded Dialarc is likely around 30 years old so should be a little less. Age isn't a big deal though if it works.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Are you close to Regina? There's a Red-D-Arc location there. They rent and sell used welders. They will even load test used machines to make sure they are in good shape. Some machines come with a warranty. I'm not sure what a used Maxstar 150 or 200 inverter would be worth. A 200 would be better but 150 amps is more than enough to burn 1/8" 7018 and 5/32" 6010/6011. The nice thing about a small inverter is you can easily carry it around and they use less power. They are the largest welder rental outfit in N. America with thousands of welders. Many are made especially for them by Miller and Lincoln, maybe other manufacturers as well.
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ippielb
Senior Member
I would definitely have tried those if they came in the 8" spool.
I've never welded with DC current before, i was quite comfortable with how the welder was acting when it functioned properly the first couple rods. You're really selling the DC welder lol.
That picture was one i seen on kijiji of one similar to the one i bought. I was able to get mine for $60, with a helmet, some bronze braising rods, wire connectors, 400 amp ground clamp, stinger, and the cables. Couldn't go wrong, was a gentleman retiring who had his own machine shop. Might go back and buy a few other things from him.
Regina isn't too far away from me no, electrician comes tomorrow so if he says theres nothing wrong with the power i'm going to have to figure something else out. Maybe i'll take my welders there regardless to see how they handle a load test.
DC powered stick welder 160amp, any review on this one? Brand new with warranty sounds appealing, but i'm definitely looking at one of the ones you suggested first.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
I saw that Forney asking $350. Normally I'd say to buy from a welding supply but Hobart are basically the consumer version of Miller. They're usually almost identical but may not have as many features, in Mig machines mostly. They are much closer to the commercial Miller machines than the Lincoln box store machines. The welder at Princess Auto wouldn't be a bad choice but only 30% duty cycle meaning can only weld for 3 minutes out of 10 and has to cool off for 7. The description is a little wrong, 5/32" refers to the size of rods it will burn not the thickness of steel. Princess Auto has a great warranty policy. Could probably burn 5/32" 7018 and be easy to move around. You'd notice a big improvement with DC over an AC only machine. It is an inverter comparable to a Miller Maxstar. Would be good to see if Red-D-Arc had a used Maxstar but might be close to the price of the Hobart. They might have a used 200 amp Maxstar that would be even better and have a higher duty cycle at the amps you use. If you get the Forney working you could still look for an Idealarc or Dialarc for less money. They Idealarc has a 50% duty cycle at 200 amps and could burn 3/16" rods. The Dialarc is similar.
I wouldn't pay Red-D-Arc to load test your machines. Wait to see what the electrician says. I forgot to ask if you're using an extension cord on the welders? If it's too small could cause the issues you're having. Another advantage of an inverter is you don't need as big of a breaker or extension cord.
If you're considering the welder at Princess Auto ask them if it ever goes on sale. I've got a sale price on several things at PA even if they weren't on sale at the time just by asking. Normally it's 30 days before or after but I got a sale price from 3 month's ago.
I wouldn't pay Red-D-Arc to load test your machines. Wait to see what the electrician says. I forgot to ask if you're using an extension cord on the welders? If it's too small could cause the issues you're having. Another advantage of an inverter is you don't need as big of a breaker or extension cord.
If you're considering the welder at Princess Auto ask them if it ever goes on sale. I've got a sale price on several things at PA even if they weren't on sale at the time just by asking. Normally it's 30 days before or after but I got a sale price from 3 month's ago.
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ippielb
Senior Member
Yeah, thats the one i just got the picture from, not the welder i bought, but same model F225.
I will call Red-d-arc and see what they have for used units if my power turns out to be functional.
I was not using an extension cord at the shop i was welding at originally when i ran into the issues, but i was using a 25ft 8/3 rated to 40amp cord at the second plug in our other storage building.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
For 1/8" rods you should be OK with that extension cord. I have a feeling something went wonky with your power. I added some notes to my previous post. Too bad I wasn't closer or I'd bring my old SA200 Lincoln over. You'd be amazed at how nice it burns 7018 compared to AC. Yes, that much difference.
cfherrman
Senior Member
My guess was a broken wire somewhere.
Put the welder just at the plug in the second shop and just try on a flat piece of metal.
Put the welder just at the plug in the second shop and just try on a flat piece of metal.
ippielb
Senior Member
Either way i very much appreciate all your responses, it has helped me immensely. And I'm glad you mentioned the wire differences and lets me fix issues that could possibly arise later on.
That i can do today, we had a thunderstorm over us for the last 4 hours building constantly, so it's quite muddy everywhere now.
Nige
Senior Member
You mean to say that you have never had the dubious pleasure of arc welding while wearing wet boots.?
Welder Dave
Senior Member
I was trying to fix a leak on a golf course irrigation junction. They dug a hole to get at it but the ground all around was soaked. I was wearing welding gloves but when I put my hand on the edge of the hole to jump in I got a steady shock. I wasn't welding and the welder was only idling but it still electrified the ground. From what I've heard that's where DC current is much safer than AC current. In wet conditions the current basically leaks out of the cables.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
I'm glad you took my advice as I intended it and are going to beef up the more critical area's. Would hate to have something break at the worst moment. I was never trying to put you down or call you out. Just trying to pass on what I've learned over a few decades in the welding field. It's refreshing to have someone read my advice and try to learn from it instead of going on the defensive. Your packer build is pretty impressive. I wish I could find some cheap packer wheels to make something similar for my oval track. The prices for used pull type packers I've seen start at about $12,000! I've seen self propelled for less money.
ippielb
Senior Member
Yep, quite honestly im kind of scared of welding in wet conditions. So i'd rather not, we have had a thunderstorm every day for the whole week so haven't made much progress on the packer. The electrician came yesterday and determined that the electricity is just fine. Getting proper voltage and drawing the correct amount of amps. Sure enough though, the original welder worked just fine the first rod i used in the shop i have been working out front. So we went over to the big shop and checked the welder i just bought. And he knew right away the sound of it that there's something not right. It's not buzzing like the other one. And it did the same thing, wouldn't arc, would just stick. Power also tested just fine in the big shop.
So time to call for a different welder see if they have a used one that would be good for me.
I want the help, thats why im posting so much about the build. If anyone can see what im doing and then find ways to improve it i'm all for it. Since its going to be pulled down the road by a tractor, last thing i want is for it to be breaking and getting out of control. I've calculated that with the packer wheels lifted and the transport tires down. I'll have too much tongue weight for a 3/4 ton or a 1 ton truck to tow it. Probably 2,600lbs of tongue weight, that is IF the packers weigh 4,500 pounds each. I know I'm not an exceptional welder, so trying to minimize the reasons for anything to fail.
You're definitely right, I'd love to find a self propelled unit for less then $12,000. I'm thinking im going to sell my other little tow behind packer and try and find a self propelled one with vibrate.
So time to call for a different welder see if they have a used one that would be good for me.
I want the help, thats why im posting so much about the build. If anyone can see what im doing and then find ways to improve it i'm all for it. Since its going to be pulled down the road by a tractor, last thing i want is for it to be breaking and getting out of control. I've calculated that with the packer wheels lifted and the transport tires down. I'll have too much tongue weight for a 3/4 ton or a 1 ton truck to tow it. Probably 2,600lbs of tongue weight, that is IF the packers weigh 4,500 pounds each. I know I'm not an exceptional welder, so trying to minimize the reasons for anything to fail.
You're definitely right, I'd love to find a self propelled unit for less then $12,000. I'm thinking im going to sell my other little tow behind packer and try and find a self propelled one with vibrate.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Can the new welder be switched for different voltages, maybe it's set for 460 volts? Could take the cover off with it unplugged and see if anything looks fried or not right. If it's no good tell the guy you want your $60 back. It's not much but will buy a box of rods.
Could you lift it so the packer wheels are still lightly touching the ground to give less tongue weight?
Could you lift it so the packer wheels are still lightly touching the ground to give less tongue weight?
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ippielb
Senior Member
I'm worried about it starting to bounce unless they get completely off the ground. It'll want to start skipping i think. The closer i can get the tires to the packer wheels the better i'll be. Just moving the axle 8" farther forward elevates 600 lbs of tongue weight.
Weight Distribution Calculator
See how moving components around your vehicle can affect the center of gravity, moments of inertia and the weight distribution with this simple but effective drag and drop calculator.
www.racingaspirations.com
This is the calculator i'm using, which is meant for race cars, but i have some calculations.
55" from the drum axle, to the axle of the tires. if it was directly inline with the L shaped piece that the hydraulic cylinder is attached to. And 132" from the drum axle to the hitch where the pin is. So i can use the calculator to set my wheel base to 187". Make two weights and put them 55" from the rear axle, and 132" from the front axle, set the weights to 4,500 lbs. And then i can play with the axle position to try and get my tongue weight where i need. And there's no way i can make it truck towable.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
There's probably trailer weight calculators online too but good to have an idea how much tongue weight and how much on the wheel hubs with the packer wheels lifted.