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Weird Stuff I learned about Hammers

old timer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2010
Messages
122
Location
manitoba canada
Occupation
field mechanic
Just a few thoughts, worked for a Tramac (Montabert) dealer back in the 90's. Replaced a lot of nose bushings and moil points due to prying and scabbling (not keeping pressure on the point) The other important thing to remember is to not only have the flow to spec, the back pressure (return) is just as important (most of the time,the lower the better).
A broken point can be repaired, a trainer from Montabert in France taught us the procedure. Only worth it for 6" and larger points. I would guess I have welded up about 50 points, only had a couple of them fail.
If anybody is interested I can dig thru my old notebooks and post it here
Hope this helps
 

Jeckyl1920

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2018
Messages
226
Location
Riverside, CA
Always good to know how to do random things. I don't use a 6" breaker, but I'm sure the process is similar to welding 1" plate.
 

old timer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 30, 2010
Messages
122
Location
manitoba canada
Occupation
field mechanic
OK, here goes. didn't find my notes but kinda remember the process.
You start by making a jig that rotates to hold the 2 pieces straight and tight. Most of the time they break at an angle, use a torch to chamfer the ends leaving a 3/4' flat end in the center (a little larger than a nickle). Now this is the lmportant point, you have to find a nickle.... a real nickle, (not the alloy kind they pass off now) and put it in between the flat end of the chamfer, and jig it tight. Preheat and maintain the point to about 100C+-, I used 7018 1/8" rod and welded it up. Use stringers ONLY (no weaves). Peen each layer. Alternate the passes lengthwise down the point (that's why the jig needs to rotate) until you are done. postheat for about an hour, remove from the jig, then place the point in a sand pile for about a day (very long cool down)
NEVER use a grinder on the point, I only used a torch until the last couple I did. Used an Air Arc with a flat rod, seemed to work pretty good.
I believe the nickle is used so that the point can be flexible enough to be pounded day in day out, and still have a hard surface. Too hard it is brittle, too soft, it bends.
Well, that's my trip down memory lane, hope this helps.
 
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