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D5H 1DD , trans problems

Nige

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
29,753
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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
Green stuff, that 2€ liter type.
Sh1te in other words. It really needs a full drain and flush and a refill with ELC that is the recommended coolant for this application. Remember the discussion we had regarding the transmission oil.? Same standards apply here.
Well, based on my experience with oil pumps, what i mentioned does not make much sense ...
Based on what I know about cat transmission pumps it is highly likely that attempting to raise the relief pressure on a worn pump will cause it to fail but roll the dice if you want to, it’s not my tractor.

I suppose that you also believe it’s possible for pigs to fly.?
 

Mquinista

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2022
Messages
271
Location
Europe
I suppose that you also believe it’s possible for pigs to fly.?
Indeed u throw a pig out of a plane, it fly´s not very efective i must admit...

Got your point, what interest me is not flying activities , is overhauling the pump ? is this possible?
 

Nige

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Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
29,753
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
There are repair parts available. See the attachment. Depending on what you find when you pull the pump apart it may be more economic to simply replace the pump with a Reman one. Price up a 20R7460 and compare it to piece parts to repair your pump.
 

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Mquinista

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2022
Messages
271
Location
Europe
Thanks,
i wonder if the pump might be fine and oil is leaking somewhere... but that i have to guess by checking the pressures ...
In 2 weeks i´ll post my findings
 

Nige

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Joined
Jun 22, 2011
Messages
29,753
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
I must admit that I am finding it increasingly more difficult to understand your logic and thinking processes.

You only purchased the machine relatively recently so you have no idea of anything at all regarding its previous history. If that was me I would be questioning everything and taking nothing for granted.

So on the one hand without any hard evidence to prove it one way or the other you seem to have convinced yourself that the powertrain cooler is probably plugged, yet on the other hand and again with no evidence you have convinced yourself that the radiator (which is only a different type of cooler when all is said and done) is absolutely fine internally.

Would you like to explain how that works, because it makes no sense at all to me.?
 

Mquinista

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Joined
Jul 25, 2022
Messages
271
Location
Europe
Nige...
Its easy... i`m no where convinced of the rad is perfect, from what i can see in the gauges and looking inside by the filler cap, i´m convinced the rad is clean enough for a 30 Yr machine. Coolant is now @ 80ºC, where before the rough clean was 100ºC.
I can´t say the same from the TXM heat exchanger, at the moment we see overheating, wich can be from a problem in the TXM, or the heat exchanger clogged.
We want to start by cleaning the Exchanger, wich is much, much more pratical. It might bring us to the point of working a full morning without shifting problems.
The Rad will be cleaned throughly when we have time to stop it , in the winter, right now we need it to be going.
The same goes for the TMX shifting problems, when we got time to stop it , we´ll fix it.

What might be simple for u, after so many years dealing with those CAT´s its not a easy task for us, we don´t know the systems from heart and the implications of every sub system has on the performance.

I´m pretty sure controling the overheating won´t solve our shifting problems, but i´m positive it might help. Later on, step by step w´ll be able to tackle all problems , with your help and others ofcourse.
 

Dave Neubert

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2018
Messages
1,679
Location
Monroe NC
If the cooler is plugged then most likely the radiator is too they both have about the same size openings. save your self some trouble and replace the hyd. pump if the pump is not performing at the set pressure then Rasing the pressure will only make the pump less effective. It is not that big of a job to remove the radiator pull it and have it cleaned by a radiator shop.
 

Mquinista

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Joined
Jul 25, 2022
Messages
271
Location
Europe
Hy gents , some update....
The cheap fixing ended, rad cleaned... it was really dirty, on the other hand the TXM cooler was not bad at all, a litle silicone rubish , just foud out either the system is strange or is missing something ... later on we'll see.
Tomorrow we will install the gauges and see how it is going.
 

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JAJ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2022
Messages
182
Location
Australia
Occupation
Owner operator of small fleet
Are those photos before or after cleaning?
If the radiator is clogged up that bad externally it would absolutely cause over heating!!
You may well still have other problems to deal with, but if you can get the radiator clean I think you could cure most of your heat related dramas. I know the guys are all saying to pull it out to clean it (and I respect that) but I have had great success with a steam/hot water pressure cleaner for external cleaning in the machine. The one I have goes up to 150*C and there isn't much it wont dissolve. They are life changing compared to a cold water one! If you could get access to one it could save a lot of work. Not sure if they are common where you live but perhaps you could hire or borrow one?

Anyway I am finding this thread rather fascinating for a number of reasons.
Interested to hear how your next round of testing goes.
 

Mquinista

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2022
Messages
271
Location
Europe
Hey, we have hot water pressure washers... but they are not suited to field ops. Used a cold one
Fotos were after i clean from front, before i had the fan and pulley removed.
I can't say it was piece of cake , but it was done.
Removing the RAD is a bulky job... u can't do it alone. Or i can't. I did it with rad in place. It is clean now...
Just found out some piping for, (non original) what seems to me a air/ oil coller in the front...
This piping is buryed deep in **** and other piping and i couldn't access what are for...
Does this machine came with a HYD oil Cooler?
Thanks
 

Nige

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Jun 22, 2011
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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
Fotos were after i clean from front, before i had the fan and pulley removed.
If those photos are after you cleaned it then all I can say is that it's still NOWHERE NEAR being clean, but if you're happy with it then I guess no-one else will be able to convince you otherwise.
ust found out some piping for, (non original) what seems to me a air/ oil coller in the front...
This piping is buryed deep in **** and other piping and i couldn't access what are for...
Does this machine came with a HYD oil Cooler?
Last question first - no oil cooler on the hydraulic system.
Time to lower the belly guards out and clean everything by the sound of it. A lack of air flow around the engine in the direction of the radiator will also affect cooling system performance and lead to engine overheating.

How about some photos of the piping and the "extra" cooler.?
 

JAJ

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Joined
Mar 22, 2022
Messages
182
Location
Australia
Occupation
Owner operator of small fleet
Mmm I hope you got it cleaner after you took the photos then. I know the hot water pressure cleaners aren’t super portable but if you can get the dozer somewhere that you could use one I think it would be well worth the effort as soon as you get the chance.
Will be interesting to see if you got it clean enough to make it usable when you test it?

When I pulled the radiator apart in my D6h I could pull the square core sections out one by one inside the hard nose of the dozer. It wasn’t a fun job but was doable, can’t remember if I had a second person. Not sure if this is possible with a D5, Nige or someone else with more experience than I do may know?

Nige said your machine doesn’t have a hydraulic oil cooler as standard… my next guess would be an Air con condenser but like Nige said some pictures would be most useful.
Very interested to see a pic of the whole machine too?
 

Mquinista

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Jul 25, 2022
Messages
271
Location
Europe
Nige... daaa the pics was just to show how dirt it was... its clean belive me. The temp show 75°C steady puling or no puling... as it should... 75°C its the indication on the gauge... its just the reading. Important is its steady when pulling and idling...

This piping i mentioned is conected on the trans case as can be seen by the pics. That botom 3/4 hose ... goes around the nose its conected with the other that runs to the rear , can't were it goes.

There is evidence of some gadget was fitted there. Its not anymore.

Pressure on the upper left port , is around 22 bar oil cold , when going from rwd to fwd it decreases in less than a second to 20 and goes back to 22. With oil hot show 24. Engine idle oil hot drops to 10/12 1/3 thr up show 24 again.

Just have one 9/16 tap... got to buy an adapter for the second gauge.

Trans is acting funny as it was but still engaging after 2h working , before it didn't.
How do i post videos?

Anyone know what are those 2 sensors in the last pic?
 

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Nige

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29,753
Location
G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
The temp show 75°C steady puling or no puling... as it should... 75°C its the indication on the gauge...
Double check that with a temp gun. If the correct water temperature regulator is fitted to the cooling system the coolant temperature should be running at around 90°C. Have you even checked if it has a temperature regulator fitted.?

Would you like to put your pressures in psi so everyone can understand them please. Bars mean nothing to me I'm afraid.
 

JAJ

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Joined
Mar 22, 2022
Messages
182
Location
Australia
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Owner operator of small fleet
Can you identify them from the wire colours numbers on the electrical schematic. I would guess that the one with the yellow wire coming from it is the converter outlet temperature. What colour wire(s) are connected to the other one.?
Nige I believe that your guess is correct… single wire should be the sender for converter outlet temp and the two wire one should be a temp activated switch to bring on the Trans overheating warning light and buzzer on the dash. Should activate at something like 130*C
 

Mquinista

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2022
Messages
271
Location
Europe
Would you like to put your pressures in psi so everyone can understand them please. Bars mean nothing to me I'm afraid.
Psi also means nothing to me... but i can google and found out 22 BAR being 319 psi.
1 bar about 14 psi
Nige I believe that your guess is correct… single wire should be the sender for converter outlet temp and the two wire one should be a temp activated switch to bring on the Trans overheating warning light and buzzer on the dash. Should activate at something like 130*C
130° celsius? That is way hot ...

Anyone with a squematic regarding the trans case outlets? I'm really anoyed with this piping.
 

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