laidback01
Well-Known Member
if it's garbage anyway... whatever. this is my favorite video for seeing how to remove pins from track:
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Newby with CAT 305.5E2 (not CR) -- I think the tracks are toast. Do I need new sprockets?
- Thread starter Baxsie
- Start date
pittsburgh cat man
Senior Member
I think you could save yourself a lot of aggravation with a cutting torch since the track is junk I Would just cut one of the links at the holes
skyking1
Senior Member
Hold on there!
if you really want to re-use the pads, pull the pads off the rails while they are still on the machine.
Nothing is going to hold them better for you.
Even if you plan on gas-axing the bolts too, do it on the machine. Beats wrestling that heavy assembly around and pinching fingers etc.
Then cut a link as suggested by the man from PA.
If you don't have a use for the rails I might like one to play with. They can be fun art projects.
if you really want to re-use the pads, pull the pads off the rails while they are still on the machine.
Nothing is going to hold them better for you.
Even if you plan on gas-axing the bolts too, do it on the machine. Beats wrestling that heavy assembly around and pinching fingers etc.
Then cut a link as suggested by the man from PA.
If you don't have a use for the rails I might like one to play with. They can be fun art projects.
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
Another thought since I'll have the tracks off: Are the rollers serviceable? They are definitely worn, but I'm not in a position to shell out for new ones.
However, if they can be disassembled, repacked, and reinstalled I might be up for that. I didn't see any obvious grease fittings.
The ones I have tried are stiff, but I can turn them by hand.
Thanks again for your help.
However, if they can be disassembled, repacked, and reinstalled I might be up for that. I didn't see any obvious grease fittings.
The ones I have tried are stiff, but I can turn them by hand.
Thanks again for your help.
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
skyking1
Senior Member
cool I had not seen that detail.
That is what I did for the company 120, ITR assemblies, new sprockets, some rollers.
Starting here on this thread
I am between Tacoma and Sequim. Back and forth.
That is what I did for the company 120, ITR assemblies, new sprockets, some rollers.
Starting here on this thread
I am between Tacoma and Sequim. Back and forth.
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
If you think you might get over here and want them, I can set them aside for a bit. Otherwise they are off to recycling.
Shipping weight of the new tracks is 1360 lbs, so that makes each new track ~680 lbs. The new tracks have 41 links so each link with shoe weighs ~16½ lbs.
Shipping weight of the new tracks is 1360 lbs, so that makes each new track ~680 lbs. The new tracks have 41 links so each link with shoe weighs ~16½ lbs.
skyking1
Senior Member
If they get in the way get rid of them. I made a mistake tossing the 120 tracks.
It would be spring at the earliest.
if the rollers turn and do not wobble when you pry on them, you are good to go.
It would be spring at the earliest.
if the rollers turn and do not wobble when you pry on them, you are good to go.
Nige
Senior Member
Attached the parts listings for the track rollers (10) and carrier rollers (2).
You might find that complete aftermarket rollers are cheaper to buy than new OEM roller shells. I'm not sure if aftermarket roller shells are available or not but at least you now have Part Numbers to go searching.
BC Placer gold
Senior Member
We had to install a couple of lower rollers last summer in our Deere 50d. They were surprisingly inexpensive from our local dealer (Brandt).
They were plainly branded ITR! And were visibly different than the originals.
Rollers for our Cat 304 (genuine Cat) were also quite reasonable (both aftermarket and dealer). That was several years ago.
They were plainly branded ITR! And were visibly different than the originals.
Rollers for our Cat 304 (genuine Cat) were also quite reasonable (both aftermarket and dealer). That was several years ago.
BC Placer gold
Senior Member
A brand new roller is hard to turn by hand…as Skyking noted if not dry/squeaky/loose (bearings) then you could probably just run them.
A very easy confirmation is to walk the machine a good distance and feel for heat. Will quickly point to a bad roller.
This is easy for us as I often walk machines 10km or more
good luck! It seems you paid a fair price for the machine…
A very easy confirmation is to walk the machine a good distance and feel for heat. Will quickly point to a bad roller.
This is easy for us as I often walk machines 10km or more
good luck! It seems you paid a fair price for the machine…
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
The SIS2GO app is saying I would need 10 each of 422-0837 lower rollers @ $122 (!) each at my local dealer.
That is cheaper than most I see on eBay:
"422-0837" Cat Roller for sale | eBay
Get the best deals for "422-0837" Cat Roller at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!
www.ebay.com
For some reason the upper roller 333-5602 is double that -- $252 at the local dealer, only one on eBay for $199:
"333-5602" Cat Roller for sale | eBay
Get the best deals for "333-5602" Cat Roller at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!
www.ebay.com
In any case the budget is not there for new rollers unless the old ones are absolutely unusable.
Interesting, good to know.
I'll check when the old track is off.
Meanwhile, the new tracks showed up:
Peeking under the plastic wrap, they seem to be about the right size:
skyking1
Senior Member
Wow, that was fast.
Nige
Senior Member
If you look at the attachment the rollers break down into various piece parts. The big wear part is #4, the roller shell (P/N 422-0843) complete with bushings. Try pricing them although it is going to cost you some labour to re-shell the 10 track rollers.
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
Yes: 422-0843 prices out at $109 locally. The 422-0837 at $122 assembly would make more sense.
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
In an unlikely coincidence of logistics, the sprockets showed up the very same day:
I have my work cut out.
I have my work cut out.
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
I was worried about getting the sprocket off, so during the few sunny (and cold and windy) hours this afternoon I took on that task.
Removing the bolts was uneventful with the air impact wrench:
Maybe only 10 or so decent strikes with the sledge, the sprocket came off:
Here is a comparison of the old and new sprockets:
I cleaned the bolts, holes and mounting faces. I reinstalled the bolts with generous anti-seize.
I have a question: Is there a torque specified for these bolts? They are M14x2 by 40mm grade 10.9.
As a first guess, I put them at 100 ft-lbs.
This table:
shows 136 ~ 146. I better stop at 125 ft-lb considering I have them lubed with anti-seize.
Removing the bolts was uneventful with the air impact wrench:
Maybe only 10 or so decent strikes with the sledge, the sprocket came off:
Here is a comparison of the old and new sprockets:
I cleaned the bolts, holes and mounting faces. I reinstalled the bolts with generous anti-seize.
I have a question: Is there a torque specified for these bolts? They are M14x2 by 40mm grade 10.9.
As a first guess, I put them at 100 ft-lbs.
This table:
shows 136 ~ 146. I better stop at 125 ft-lb considering I have them lubed with anti-seize.
Last edited:
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
In the end, I did not use the cutting torch to remove the track. I used my little DeWalt angle grinder with a fresh cutoff wheel. Padlocks are truly obsolete.
After cutting the track, I made a short video to show how loose the old track is:
I used the Massey to tug the old track off:
Do you "C" any problem?
After cutting the track, I made a short video to show how loose the old track is:
I used the Massey to tug the old track off:
Do you "C" any problem?
Baxsie
Well-Known Member
With the sunlight holding on, I took a look at the idler. It pretty much fell out:
And, frankly fell apart:
Three of the 4 bolts wee missing, and the forth only finger tight. The holes were packed with rust and dirt. I made a thread chase out of the one existing bolt. wire brushed the head to find the grade. Not from this hemisphere:
And, frankly fell apart:
Three of the 4 bolts wee missing, and the forth only finger tight. The holes were packed with rust and dirt. I made a thread chase out of the one existing bolt. wire brushed the head to find the grade. Not from this hemisphere: