1985 Case 1155D engine removal

[Bobcat Crazy]

Hi All,
I am looking at buying a 1155 track loader with a terrible engine knock! This would be my largest project ever, I have built 7.3 Ford engines, smaller Bobcat/Kubota engines, Case skid steer/Cummins engines, and the like, but nothing this big. This engine sounds like it has a broken rod but the block is still in tact to this point.

If I buy it I think I need to have it winched on and off of the trailer to keep from cranking it in hopes of saving the block. Would any of you have a link to a video of the engine removal on this type of machine? The machine looks to be in very good condition other than the engine, I don't see any oil leaks busted hoses or leaking cylinders. If I could get this running again it would last me the rest of my life on our family piece of land.

All help and advice is appreciated.
B-Crazy

 

[gggraham]

Removal is fairly easy on these machines. Put the loader in the air and strut into place, roll bucket right back so it doesn't dump on you in mid air. Remove side panels and top hood. Remove the grill and X brace. Disconnect rad hose at the radiator, disconnect cooler lines. Now you can unbolt the hardnose and remove the radiator and coolers as an assembly. Now disconnect all wires and linkages from engine. Remove the drive shaft. Now you can pull this with the torque converter and pump attached or you can remove it, your choice. It's a little easier to wiggle out with pump and torque converter removed.
504 were bad for tossing rods through the block, don't run it any longer than you have to.

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Removal is fairly easy on these machines. Put the loader in the air and strut into place, roll bucket right back so it doesn't dump on you in mid air. Remove side panels and top hood. Remove the grill and X brace. Disconnect rad hose at the radiator, disconnect cooler lines. Now you can unbolt the hardnose and remove the radiator and coolers as an assembly. Now disconnect all wires and linkages from engine. Remove the drive shaft. Now you can pull this with the torque converter and pump attached or you can remove it, your choice. It's a little easier to wiggle out with pump and torque converter removed.
504 were bad for tossing rods through the block, don't run it any longer than you have to.

Thanks gggraham!!!
That is great info and instructions! I appreciate your willingness to give an old shade tree mechanic a little of your time. It didn't look like it would be that difficult but I have a tendency to think things will not be that bad and jump into them wide open. That has gotten me into trouble a few times. So hopefully this means that I am getting at least a little bit smarter (asking before jumping straight in)!

I knew that it sounded like a rod and as bad as it sounds I am very surprised the block does not have a hole in it. The owner and I are only $1000 apart and I have just made a counter offer so hopefully we can reach an agreement. I would hate to miss out on it but all that I can save on the purchase means I would have a little more for parts.

The way it sounds I feel sure the journal with the broken rod on it will be ruined so which would mean a crank kit for sure. Would you have any recommendations on a parts dealer for the parts I will be needing?

Thanks again!
B-Crazy

 

[sawmilleng]

I don't have anything to add to the tech part of this conversation but I'll put my 2 cents worth in on the depth of knowledge on this site.
I find it simply amazing that people can post a question about things that are fairly detailed and not so mainstream and (most) questions get a detailed answer or even several answers in a couple of days.
I'm guessing that this kind of response happens in all sorts of different forums and it really helps my opinion of humankind. Granted, there are some pretty grumpy responses but for the most part people seem to be free with their knowledge and experiences in order to help others.
B-Crazy, keep us posted on how the job goes if you end up purchasing it! Does this machine have the high/low/reverse transmission on each track? I've been thirsting to try one of those for years!
Jon.

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Hi Jon,
I have no idea about the high/low reverse. I know that it has several levers that I have no idea what they do at this time. I am hoping that I get the chance to find out. If I purchase it I'm sure you will see more questions from me on here. And I will update from time to time. Thanks for your input and I agree on the willingness of others to share their knowledge on this site.
Thanks again!
B-Crazy

 

[gggraham]

Thanks gggraham!!!
That is great info and instructions! I appreciate your willingness to give an old shade tree mechanic a little of your time. It didn't look like it would be that difficult but I have a tendency to think things will not be that bad and jump into them wide open. That has gotten me into trouble a few times. So hopefully this means that I am getting at least a little bit smarter (asking before jumping straight in)!

I knew that it sounded like a rod and as bad as it sounds I am very surprised the block does not have a hole in it. The owner and I are only $1000 apart and I have just made a counter offer so hopefully we can reach an agreement. I would hate to miss out on it but all that I can save on the purchase means I would have a little more for parts.

The way it sounds I feel sure the journal with the broken rod on it will be ruined so which would mean a crank kit for sure. Would you have any recommendations on a parts dealer for the parts I will be needing?

Thanks again!
B-Crazy

For engine parts you cab try https://www.reliancepowerparts.com/, then click on find a dealer. We have used their after market parts many times with no issues, much cheaper than OEM.

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Thanks again gggraham! Let me ask another question, the 1155D I'm looking at is priced at $4800. I know the engine has to be rebuilt or replaced because it has a broken rod. The block is in tact at this point. The machine has no leaks, it does have some older hoses where the outside rubber has cracked but to this point they have not leaked. I know that just before the rod broke at least 2 of the cylinders have been repacked. The machine is a 1985 model but no broken and welded arms or anything and the pins do not look sloppy, so I am think it has not have heavy and/or abusive treatment.

Considering these things do you feel it is worth the $4800 even though I know the engine has to be rebuilt or replaced?

Thanks Guys!
B-Crazy

 

[mekanik]

The engine may not be that bad. If you buy it pull the oil filter and cut it open and see what is in it.
Keep us posted!
Terry

 

[gggraham]

The out of frame kit for this engine is roughly $1500, a crank could cost about $1200. So for about $8000 you have a dozer with a good engine I'd say not bad at all. Now if you didn't do the work yourself then it gets expensive.

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

The engine may not be that bad. If you buy it pull the oil filter and cut it open and see what is in it.
Keep us posted!
Terry

If I get it I will keep you Guys posted, and ask more questions I'm sure. What would I be looking for in the oil filter other than fine metal?

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

The out of frame kit for this engine is roughly $1500, a crank could cost about $1200. So for about $8000 you have a dozer with a good engine I'd say not bad at all. Now if you didn't do the work yourself then it gets expensive.

I would be doing the work myself except for the specialty stuff like head work and turning the crank. But I assume that is the way everyone does it unless they own a machine shop.

We were only $1000 apart so I thought we would have already made the deal by now. I moved half of what we were off thinking he would accept that (especially as bad as the knock is) but he has not moved at all but said he will think about it.

So if I want it I am probably going to have to pay the full $4800. I work a fulltime job but I figure I can take my time and build it in the evenings after work and have it ready for next spring. I don't have a deadline to get it ready as I will just be using it on our family land.

I guess I just need to decide if I am going to jump in or not. It would make it a little sweeter if he would move on the price a little but I understand that he has it and I want it so he holds the trump or Trump card.

 

[mekanik]

Copper in the oil filter is usually from a crankshaft bearing failure.

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

So by that are you saying that it is a possibility that the crank could still be good? Or am I showing my ignorance by even asking this question?

 

[mekanik]

The crank may be good. There are other things that can cause an engine knock that are less serious.

 

[brianbulldozer]

Do you have any knowledge of the condition of the torque converter/transmission/final drives? You ask if it’s a good deal. Will it still be a good deal to you if you have to rebuild one or more of these after you repair/replace the engine? You also don’t mention the condition of the undercarriage, which is an important consideration. Don’t mean to be a downer. I am a fan of Case equipment and I like a good project as much as the next guy, but I have also been down this road before.

 

[boone]

This might help. It's the 1450b dozer but might be the same engine. He has a three part video.

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Do you have any knowledge of the condition of the torque converter/transmission/final drives? You ask if it’s a good deal. Will it still be a good deal to you if you have to rebuild one or more of these after you repair/replace the engine? You also don’t mention the condition of the undercarriage, which is an important consideration. Don’t mean to be a downer. I am a fan of Case equipment and I like a good project as much as the next guy, but I have also been down this road before.

I do not have the knowledge level to answer these questions. I have talked to the guy actually running it (not the owner) when the noise started. He says everything was working as normal.

If I have to replace something else after the engine HECK NO I would not consider it a good buy then!

Been down this road before.
Yes me too, too many times. I am hoping these people are telling me the truth about the condition of it. They seem like good honest people but I do know that some relatively good people will tell you anything to sale you a broken machine.

Really with my lack of knowledge of these machines the only things I can judge by is: what I feel about the character of the people I am dealing with, and the fact that the machine is clean. It is not oily and nasty all over like machines that only have maintenance when something breaks and/or burst spraying oil every where.

I don't see any welds where arms and buckets have been broken and repaired. There are no signs that it has been power washed trying to clean it up to fool someone looking at it. It still has the dirt piled up on the steps between tracks just like it was when they stopped working with it.

It also has the 4 in 1 bucket and I see the cylinders on that have just been rebuilt. So I know he was truthful about that.

I don't know for sure but the 4 in 1 bucket, if I had to buy it new would probably cost what he is asking for the machine. I guess if all else fails I could sale the bucket for a couple grand and sale the loader for junk. The junk weight price looks to be about $2500 and then a couple of grand for the bucket I would have most of the investment back.

Certainly this would be a worse case scenario. HOPEFULLY it will not be that bad! But I have been there before.

Okay enough for now.
B-Crazy

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

This might help. It's the 1450b dozer but might be the same engine. He has a three part video.

Haha, thanks boone!
I have already watched this very video trying to learn as much as I could before jumping in. Thanks for sharing that, it shows I was thinking on the right track!

B-Crazy

 

[Bobcat Crazy]

Okay Guys,
I guess I am jumping in!
The owner and I have reach and agreement on price so I will be the proud owner of a broken track loader shortly. Hopefully I get it to my place and start removing bolts within the next week or so.

Stay tuned I'm sure there are many more questions to come once the wrenching starts. I hope most of the wrenching will be on the loader and not on my opinion of myself for buying another machine! By the way we will not mention my wife's opinion about me buy more junk (as she calls it )!

B-Crazy
The wife says I am!

 

[mekanik]

Make sure and keep us posted. I rebuilt an engine in a very similar Case crawler
a few years ago. One of my co-workers once worked for a Case dealer. He told me
"Make sure and replace the connecting rod bolts!" Apparently they can fail if reused.