2014 Case SR250 'No Power to Display Panel'

[hd66]

Hello; My 1st post on the HDE forums. I used this Skid Steer for 3 hours 4 days ago and then Parked it. The next day it had no power to the Display Panel. No previous electrical issue like this with it. Battery load tested and is good. Master Battery Disconnect near battery works. Good connection on all the wires at battery. Zero power to the Display. I have checked all the fuses in the cab. One was blown but it's not related to this issue. Do I need to lift the cab to check the Harness? I've been told that the cylinder hydraulic lines need to be disconnected and bucket/lift arms lifted up high so the cab can be tilted forward. Any way to get at the wiring harness without lifting the cab?

 

[KSSS]

I would start with the seat presence and lap bar sensor

 

[ozarkag]

What KSSS said, Believe dash should beep and light up when seat switch is activated, even with key off.

 

[hd66]

Good recommendation to check the seat/lap belt switch. I Guess it tells the panel to turn on. The seat switch thing briefly went through my mind when checking the fuses but did not know where to look. I have a manual so maybe a diagram shows how to get at it.

 

[Simon C]

My schematics for SR 250 show Fuse 11 Unswitched power feeding the instrument cluster with positive power. Is your serial number NCM442643 and up.
Check that fuse, if there is no power at all on display.
Maybe the fuse is loose in the female receiving pin.
I just fixed one couple months back with loose relay female receiver pins.
I had to tighten up the pins with an o-ring pick that is 45 degrees.
Check all the switches as posted above.
Keep us in the loop.
Simon C

 

[hd66]

Thanks. Display is dead so no power. My serial number is up from your posted one. Not sure what fuse 11 is. No numbering of them on the diagram on the fuse box cover. Will look for a schematic of fuse box. Lap Bar has 2 wires going to it so disconnected plug and used a wire to connect them. Nothing happened. Seat belt has 4 wires going to it so unsure how to test it.

 

[hd66]

What KSSS said, Believe dash should beep and light up when seat switch is activated, even with key off.

No key. Buttons for on and off. The beep and light up for seat switch(Lap bar) works the same.

 

[KSSS]

Just clarify, when you sit in the seat, the console does not light up? If not, sit hard in the seat several times and see if it clicks on.

 

[hd66]

Just clarify, when you sit in the seat, the console does not light up? If not, sit hard in the seat several times and see if it clicks on.

Console was not lighting up. I pushed down on the seat with my knee and the console beeped/lit up right away and engine starts now.....! ‍‍ Thank you and the other responders‍! Everyone indicated it could be a possible switch/sensor issue but your suggestion to use some force on the seat 'Nailed it'! I am also able to get the console to light up using some force when sitting. Do I buy a new seat switch or is there a potential known fix?

I had searched the net for info and wiring harness shorting seemed highly likely from the comments I found. Found Wiring harness on net for $1,569.07us inc shipping....! Dealer mobile service rate is $239cdn hr! Travel time billed at $239 an hour. 1.5hr for them to get to Skid Steer location. Would have cost me $660.20 tax inc, if the mechanic found the problem in the 1st hour. I would have stopped at 1hr and finished the repair myself. I already had determined the Battery, Disconnect switch and Cables were OK so mechanic could have started with the switch/sensors checking. I also thought it was possible that the mechanic might be set on getting the cab up and costs would keep climbing. When I had inquired about mobile repair, the service department told me it could be a possible 4hrs of diagnostic time for electrical issues. 5.5hrs $1472.24 tax inc. For that price it still might of not have been repaired yet is what I thought was possible.....! An alternative mobile service for me would have been $190hr and $175 for the travel but that's from a Kubota dealer......! Joining the HeavyEquipmentForums was very worth while.....!

 

[KSSS]

I have never pulled that sensor, I am not sure what it looks like. You certainly don't need a wiring harness. You also may try softening the seat. There is a round knob at the bottom of the seat that is used to stiffen or soften the seat. You might try softening it up some and see if the sensor triggers more easily. If that doesn't work you could pull the seat and replace the sensor itself, which I doubt would be that expensive. I should also add, you could double your sandwich intake! Good to hear you got it going.

 

[hd66]

Thanks. I'll try softening the seat. Wasn't aware of the feature but did see the dial there. I'm ready for a weight loss diet so the extra weight idea won't work!..LoL... I realized a harness was not needed. Just posted that as a worst case scenario. Did not want get stuck with a crazy high bill from the mechanic. Especially disappointing if a harness gets replaced when it's not the problem..!
**Another question. Wondering if it's a throttle pedal on the floor? Has a wire going to it but pedal is frozen down if it is a throttle pedal. There a hand control throttle by the window.

 

[KSSS]

Yes that is a foot throttle. It's pretty handy, so you can set the hand throttle at say or 3/4 throttle and go WOT by using your foot. I would cleanout around it, it might just be stuck, or the linkage is bound up.

 

[Vetech63]

HEF delivers yet again!

 

[hd66]

I'm very busy so foot throttle issue may not get attention for a while. First Pic shows fuse box location for someone that may be having electrical issues and is unsure where to find the fuses. It was pretty rusty where the 2 ground cables where bolted. Needed to clean them up to prevent a future problem. I broke a bolt and did not want to try removing it because it's awkward to get at and I didn't have the required things available to get it out. I should have used penetrating oil and it would not have broke! I realize each one was bolted separately to insure 100% good grounding. I put both wires on same bolt with anti-seize so won't corrode again. I'm also going to cover the bolt and end cable terminal lugs with silicone. I've undone cables on other applications long after applying silicone and it looks the same as the day I put the silicone on. The fuse box area is susceptible to moisture on rainy days and from condensation throughout the year. I have an enclosed cab. Moisture issues with an open cab would be far worse in the Wet climate here. I covered the fuse box with some thick plastic so water won't trickle in to it. The fuse box covers have a seal on them so it may not have been necessary. Electrical tap is holding the plastic down so the drink holder cover won't hook on it.
Click Image to enlarge

 

[Simon C]

Those 2 ground cables were nasty looking, and would eventually cause grief. These are the simple fixes we all need to do on a regular basis. Always look for small computer case ground cables, equally important. Glad you got it fixed for now.
Simon C