350B engine and drivetrain rebuild

[Fordman]

So I've convinced myself at this point the motor in the dozer needs rebuilt. I was thinking a inframe would be fine but wouldn't get to do cam bearings or crank seals. I don't have a problem pulling the motor if I have to but, need advice on overhaul vs inframe. Machine has 6000 hours. The second thing I would like to look at is the input shaft for the rear end. It looks like someone in the past has sheared the shaft clean off and welded it back on. It seems that the shaft not turning true anymore and created a lot of play in the coupler and worn the shaft splines. It makes you really grit your teeth going from forward to reverse because it will just slam into gear. What do you think new shaft from case($300) or leave it alone. I would also like to know if there are any torque converter symptoms to look for because I heard they could be a problem, and should replace if necessary with the motor out. I will include a diagram with pictures of the shaft so you guys can tell me if I unbolt the flange, the shaft can then slide out. I have gotten a lot of parts from brokentractor.com for my backhoe and loved their prices. Would a aftermarket overhaul kit from there be fine? Thanks for your time.

 

[TXGOAT]

I'd certainly replace that input shaft. The yoke that fits on that worn spline will also need replaced. Any other visibly worn or damaged shafts and yokes in the driveline will also need replaced or you will have ongoing problems with u-joints, seals, bearings, etc. Good used parts ought to be OK, but check them carefully to be sure they really are good. I'd stay away from anything that's been hammered on, shows wear, or shows any evidence of welding. Look for wear where seal lips run, too.

 

[Timberking]

I am assuming your 350B has the 188D engine in it. I found a really good retailer that sells inframe kits for the 188 and the kit is made mostly of clevite hardware as well. I have used clevite parts a few times and have been satisfied, stay away from random manufactures, iv been burnt. If my memory serves me well I believe the entire inframe kit was $565.00 shipped to your front door, wich is also the best price i found for the kit. That price qoute is for the larger flange cylinder kits though ( later model 188), not sure if there would be a price difference or not.

I would definitely replace that shaft as well. Over the years i'v learned truth in the old saying of '' if its worth doing its worth doing right'' !
Just inspect everything real well and act as if it will be the only time you will ever be in the engine and trans.
The torque converters are pretty simple and most generally are pretty reliable. If your running correct temps, your stall speeds are correct and no weird noises and ect. I wouldn't tare into it.

As far as slamming into gear, make sure you are at correct idle speed. Just a tad bit high will cause the torque conv. to not reach its low speed stall and can cause a good ''hit'' when engaging into gear. Just adjusted mine myself. Wasn't high enough over to barley notice it but once adjusted she shifted as smooth as can be.

Sounds as if you know your way around a wrench. Keep us up to date with info and pics if you don't mind as it can teach many people things they dont know, including me !! Good luck.

 

[Tinkerer]

Lots of good advice so far. One of the benefits of replacing the cam-shaft bearings is that you will be able to measure the camshaft lobes for uniform wear and / or damage. At 6000 hours it would be a good thing to replace the rear main bearing seal in the engine.

 

[Fordman]

I am assuming your 350B has the 188D engine in it. I found a really good retailer that sells inframe kits for the 188 and the kit is made mostly of clevite hardware as well. I have used clevite parts a few times and have been satisfied, stay away from random manufactures, iv been burnt. If my memory serves me well I believe the entire inframe kit was $565.00 shipped to your front door, wich is also the best price i found for the kit. That price qoute is for the larger flange cylinder kits though ( later model 188), not sure if there would be a price difference or not.

I would definitely replace that shaft as well. Over the years i'v learned truth in the old saying of '' if its worth doing its worth doing right'' !
Just inspect everything real well and act as if it will be the only time you will ever be in the engine and trans.
The torque converters are pretty simple and most generally are pretty reliable. If your running correct temps, your stall speeds are correct and no weird noises and ect. I wouldn't tare into it.

As far as slamming into gear, make sure you are at correct idle speed. Just a tad bit high will cause the torque conv. to not reach its low speed stall and can cause a good ''hit'' when engaging into gear. Just adjusted mine myself. Wasn't high enough over to barley notice it but once adjusted she shifted as smooth as can be.

Sounds as if you know your way around a wrench. Keep us up to date with info and pics if you don't mind as it can teach many people things they dont know, including me !! Good luck.

What would be the retailer for that kit?

 

[PD Mech Steve]

We have the 188D kits available. Reliance brand. Quality parts and comparable pricing. We use them here in our shop and sell across the country and have never had an issue. Give us a call. 315-288-5307http://www.sadygerts.com

 

[hammerdwn20]

Get the block magnafluxed. 188 engines cracked in the webs between the cylinder sleeves. The area where the o ring seals on the sleeve is also common to rot out. I just had my engine at the machine shop for my crawler.

 

[Fordman]

 

[Fordman]

This is the latest guys, motor and shuttle is out and ready to get taken apart. When I took the valve cover off I found the 4th cylinder to be dead. Something caused the rocker shaft to break off the post, and the push rods didn't feel right at the the lifter. So I think the cam or lifters are to blame. The cylinders and pistons however don't look that bad, no cylinder ridge what so ever, but they would have to be worn because of the tremendous blowby. Im gonna try and pull cylinder liners and pistons soon.

 

[Fordman]

As you guys can see the two middle pistons top compression rings came out in pieces, the pistons themselves don't look bad at all. The same goes for the sleeves they seemed like they may be able to be honed, would that be alright? virtually no ridge. The oil pump does seem to have some bushing play so may get a kit for that. All rod and main bearings were showing brass.

 

[hammerdwn20]

you already have the sleeves out why not just replace them. whole engine kit comes with them for a little over 600$

 

[Fordman]

Block is at the machine shop getting cam bearings put, Along with the head. Crank is getting ground. Lucky me my neighbor told me he had a complete 188 laying in his yard that seized up along time ago, and he gave it to me. The one part I really needed off this motor was the rocker shaft and rocker arms and they looked great. So I put them on my head when I took it to the shop. Im gonna ask my machine shop guy to crack test the block and head, what about the counterbores? any thing I should look for on the lobes of the cam?

 

[hammerdwn20]

Im finally reassembling my 188. I was going to rebuild the oil pump but found that once i got it apart the shaft was pretty worn. Also the cam and crank gear backlash was double the max spec so looks like ill be adding those parts to the list.