580k-ck

[AU.CASE]

Hi all,

Finally have a few minutes to use the 'hoe as a loader at least and look around this great forum.

One of the many silly problems I tackled in about ten days of maintenance on this machine was to get the engine temperature correct.

The gauge runs on the lower end of the green in the 'acceptable range' though I am used to engines where the indicator is near the middle, rain hail or shine.

Today it's 9°C and I dipped the radiator head at 73°C after more than an hour of steady work up hills mainly with a load of soil.

Shouldn't it be 85°C or so.

I have replaced the thermostat with a new one and its kit.

The engine is late production and does not require the service bulletin to modify the thermostat housing, still the temperature seems low and the heater is barely perceptible in the cab.

Any clues really appreciated.

 

[wrecd]

it could be the power resister on the back of the gauge. the little bolts used to hold it in place can rub the copper plating and eventually break the connection.



the thing the black arrow points to is the power resistor, the water temp one should have resistance close to 95 ohms. if it reads very high resistance then you can replace it with a 100 ohm 1/2 amp power resister. that would get your temperature readings in the ballpark.

a quick way to check the gauge is to ground the wire that is bolted to the top of the temperature sender, if the gauge shows a very hot reading then the gauge is probably fine and it could then be the sender. if the gauge does not move a next step would be to check for continuity in the sending wire with an ohm meter

to test the sender you can just drop it in some hot water, about 180*F. it shoud have a reading of about 200 - 250 ohms. next check the resistance at 120*F and it should be around 1K ohms.

hope this help

 

[AU.CASE]

to test the sender you can just drop it in some hot water, about 180*F. it shoud have a reading of about 200 - 250 ohms. next check the resistance at 120*F and it should be around 1K ohms.

hope this help

*Thank you* will liftout the instrument panel tomorrow and take those readings!

 

[AU.CASE]

to test the sender you can just drop it in some hot water, about 180*F. it shoud have a reading of about 200 - 250 ohms. next check the resistance at 120*F and it should be around 1K ohms.

hope this help

Hi wrecd,

Today I checked the meter resistor and its 85Ω.

However the sender is open, so I should have checked it before replacing the thermostat, although most diesels I have had needed a replacement here after about fifteen years, but apparently not this one!

Thanks for your help and I'll order in a sender soon, hoping I can get the old one free from the head could be a problem, I hope is easily solved. :Banghead

 

[AU.CASE]

Hi all,

Am replacing the angle cylinder packing on my 1150D today and have a few pics which I might put elsewhere.

Bit puzzled with the 580SK, I did a hot seal change at the torque converter output, it was freely running oil down the housing.

However, the oil persists, the housing is wet but the propeller shaft / universal isn't, I would have though if the oil was weeping through the seal it would be slung around by the spinning propeller shaft, instead it just runs down the housing over the drain plug and drips a few times per hour.

Where is this coming from?

I have an Ampro illuminated inspection mirror coming today or so and maybe there is a union above the output shaft that is weeping.

The seal was genuine and I machined a 'fitter' from an old Honda bike piston to match the width of the seal plus .25mm sub surface into the housing.

The shaft looked excellent so I am puzzled, what is the pressure in this area of the torque converter housing?