580l trans questions.

[bowen]

Nope, I posted in my alternator thread and to the op since I notice he had pretty much the same problem as Me. Double post maybe, illegal in the forums, probably.

Well I doubt it's illegal, but I was a tad confused.
I was gonna reply because I have been told that a bad alternator light bulb would prevent the alterrnator from "kick starting" the charge.
So I suppose all should look at that light every time you turn the switch on before starting it.

It just looked like I was replying to a post with the wrong title.:beatsme

 

[Richardg]

Nope, I posted in my alternator thread and to the op since I notice he had pretty much the same problem as Me. Double post maybe, illegal in the forums, probably.

You were right kb, I pulled the bulb. It was fine but all the contact points were dirty. I cleaned them up put it back in a the light came on and the Tach worked when I fired it up!

Thanks!

 

[wesleyhey]

help

Welcome to HEF Richardg!
Assuming you have a shuttleshift (FNR lever & 4sp manual) you need to figure if problem is electrical, hydraulic or mechanical.
Is the back up alarm still connected? If it is it will sound if reverse is engaged & electrics are OK. If not get someone to assist, & with ign on, cycle the FNR lever back & forth & check to see if the solonoids on top of the transmission are clicking. If they are electrics are OK.
If not, check all fuses/relays etc & read this thread - https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?25852-Case-570lxt-shuttle-problems
I have also seen the FNR levers fail (they are switches) - but not a common problem

If the solonoids are clicking, you need to check the control valve modulator, see this thread -
https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?26125-570lxt-transmission-fluid

That should keep you busy for a while!

I just replaced the pump because it was bad, still have no pressures, checked snap rings, replace oil and cleaned screen and verified fir seems to work, did I miss a step that has to be done to bleed it or something? I have a case 580l 95 year model, all electronics seem to work and valve seems fine any ideas what I missed? only thing I can think of is I missed some priming or something when I replaced the pump, hard to believe new pump is bad, I also saw TC spinning.

 

[wesleyhey]

Sorry it wasn't an easy fix for you, there's always something new to go wrong.....
Yes there is a transmission charge pump, a convertor, & flexplate (could be broken) - any one of these could be a problem too.
Pressure testing will tell you something, if there is any, a special adapter is required for a flow test of the pump.

PM sent

View attachment 97233

I replaced pump and still get no flow, is there some purge I have to do or something? replaced oil, cleaned screen tested electrics all seem good, case 580l 95 year, a little frustrated now as I am not sure what else as I have tested everything suggested on these sites.

 

[Richardg]

I'm not a tech by any means. I got through my issue with the help of thease guys. With being said I will give you my 2 cents.
The fluid level test is a good way to rule out the pump.
Does the level drop when you crank the engine?
Did you do a pressure test with a gauge?

 

[wesleyhey]

I'm not a tech by any means. I got through my issue with the help of thease guys. With being said I will give you my 2 cents.
The fluid level test is a good way to rule out the pump.
Does the level drop when you crank the engine?
Did you do a pressure test with a gauge?

no I have not used a gauge yet, replaced pump at it was pressure tested before and that was bad. replaced unit that was bad, not sure were all the pressure points are and what type of hoses I need to test with, one shop said maybe cracked pickup hose but that is somewhat hard to believe that would be a bad pump.

 

[Richardg]

Pull the dip stick and see where the fluid level is at. Then put the stick back in and start the engine. Pull the stick again and see if the level drops.

 

[wesleyhey]

Pull the dip stick and see where the fluid level is at. Then put the stick back in and start the engine. Pull the stick again and see if the level drops.

That was the first thing I tried does not look like it changed much.

 

[Richardg]

Man I'm willing to bet the gauge test is gonna produce the same result... I'm afraid I don't know enough about that trans to figure out what else it could be.

 

[alrman]

Welcome to HEF wesleyhey! :drinkup

All transmissions are self priming. So there is nothing you can do externally.
When the transmission was refitted did you check the alignment of the drive tangs on the convertor & the charge pump? It would seem to me the pump is not turning.
Was there any difficulty refitting the transmission?
The transmission adapter housing should have gone up flush with the engine bellhousing - without the use of any bolts to pull them together .....

 

[wesleyhey]

Welcome to HEF wesleyhey! :drinkup

All transmissions are self priming. So there is nothing you can do externally.
When the transmission was refitted did you check the alignment of the drive tangs on the convertor & the charge pump? It would seem to me the pump is not turning.
Was there any difficulty refitting the transmission?
The transmission adapter housing should have gone up flush with the engine bellhousing - without the use of any bolts to pull them together .....

It seemed like there was not really any force needed, seemed like it went on fairly easy. Wonder if I just had a bad unit. Sucks though as not easy to get everything disconnected to pull engine.