580SE brake questions, lots of em.

[syndy]

I was up in NC for the last couple of weeks and my 580 ran like a charm except for the right brake which never worked for me. They are dry brakes with regular gear oil in the transaxle. I suspected an oil leak into the disk area since I bought it. I removed the cover, (what a bear, near killed this old man) and about a coffee cup of gear oil leaked out. Pulling out the guts, everything was soaked in oil.

I just got home tonight and have not unpacked my trailer but the disk looked good as far as material thickness. Can I bake these out with a small torch, I have read that some on here have tried?

I will inspect the other parts that I bought home and replace any bad parts.

The seal is an (A179054) and appears to be in the back side of the differential brake housing and I am assuming I need to remove the housing to get to the backside. Would this be possible to do, lets say sitting under the machine out on the farm? I would put a sheet of plywood down as a working surface.

What holds the differential brake housing to the transaxle? Right now it is on the axle with all the bolts out. My manual says there are two (FERRY) bolts holding it on, never heard of them before. The parts book shows no bolts at all meaning the longer cover bolts do the job. Some confusion here?

I have the floor removed and that only helped with getting to 2 of the upper bolts. I can't even look into the housing as things are very close to the frame. I am thinking of removing that one wheel using a winch off the ROP and the back hoe to hold it out of the way, is that of any help?. I am working by myself so any ideas would help. BTW there is liquid in the tires.

 

[willie59]

A Ferry bolt is actually a FC (Ferry Cap) counterbore machine screw, has a 12 point cap head, item #7 in your parts illustration above. You should find them mounting the brake housing to transaxle housing once you remove all the internal brake components. They fit into counterbored holes inside of brake housing.

 

[sheepfoot]

I would drain trans/rear end 5 gal, do not pull wheel, put two holes in seal and install sheet metal screws, pull seal, clean up with brake clean, clean area where seal seats and shaft area, pack rear of seal with grease, install shipping tape around splines, slide seal down tapes shaft and drive home, remove tape and install remainder parts and adjust brakes, fill with oil. I have just washed the disc with brake clean/either and re installed or replaced them.

 

[syndy]

Thanks willie59, I should have known that as outboard motors are full of them and I worked on them for over 20 years, just called them 12 point. sheepfoot, are you saying to remove the seal working around the spline shaft sticking out of the differential housing?? From what you say, the seal comes out the outside end of the housing. I just can't help to think with only two 12 point screws holding the housing on, it would be easier to remove the housing to replace the seal. However looking at the photos and doing it are two different things, I have never pulled one apart before.

I might also add that my first look (a few days earlier) at the housing cover with the tractor up in the air using the pad to raise it was discouraging as it appeared to be impossible to reach into that area with any tools. After a lot of thinking and a few hours to spare I decided to bite the bullet and remove the floor. That didn't help much and by that time the 580 was covered and the battery removed. With a thunder storm dropping lightning all around me I went under and climbed over to get the brakes out. I also had to whack the heads of the floor panel off with a Cole chisel as the nuts on the outside were all turning. Using a vise-grip was not an option as the tires were full of poison ivy and I get it real bad. Being exhausted I could barely lift the cover back onto the housing and shaft after removing the disk and assembly. The working conditions were about as bad as they get with flash flooding from all the rain. For my next trip, removing the wheel just seems to me that it would give me more light to see plus enable me to see the ferry bolts better or even the seal but I know the frame is still in the way..

 

[syndy]

sheepfoot, I went back and looked again at the manual and it appears that you are right about using SM screws to remove the seal.

The next question is how do you do it with the frame and shaft in the way???? I was in a hurry to get out of there because of rain and lightening so although I tried to look into the housing it seemed like I would need a mirror to see anything. This is why I thought about removing the wheel. I see a shim pack and O-ring on the back side of the housing and it seems best to leave them in tact. I guess it is just not an easy job but I need to plan ahead as what tools I bring has to do the job, no stores are near by and I could easily waste a half day running for supplies. What size socket will fit that 1/2" ferry bolt???? (9/16-5/8????

 

[sheepfoot]

syndy, I would still go about it with the screws to pull the seal, it seems hard to work in that spot but it can be done with out pulling that housing off, not only will you be dealing with the housing, shims,large o-ring, but the side gear shaft will also drop a little, that housing supports the ring gear, and you have to hold the shaft also to get the bearing cone centered to the housing to slide it back in while not cutting your o-ring with your shims as you work it back in the trans housing. I use a right angle air drill with a 1/8 bit to start the hole for the screw and you may find a right angle head for a cordless drill that would work and have several screw sizes on hand if they pull out while prying and pulling.

 

[syndy]

sheepfoot, I not only think you are right, I know you are right. I took a better look in the parts manual and the repair manual and the least disturbed in the field the better. I have from now until the fall to prepare and I will have a generator and air compressor with me then. Once I have the new seal I will also have a better picture of what I have to deal with.

 

[syndy]

sheepfoot, I finished the cleanup on the brake parts today and the brake clean worked like a charm, thanks for the tip. The disk look and feel like new and the balls were in excellent shape. I polished out the ball sockets and it is all ready to go back in. I have two seals ordered and just can't wait to sit under and try to get the old seal out.