953 loader opinions

[Ralph Harris]

Will I lose all the oil by taking the line off? Is there a process to keep Hy oil?

 

[HardRockNM]

Will I lose all the oil by taking the line off? Is there a process to keep Hy oil?

If in doubt, use screw-in line plugs or silicone Mess Savers. You may need to move quickly to minimize oil loss.

 

[Nige]

Will I lose all the oil by taking the line off? Is there a process to keep Hy oil?

I would suggest that you drain the tank just in case. Even that may not totally prevent any oil loss when you remove the tube. If you want to reuse the oil you could always drain it into a clean container.

 

[Ralph Harris]

Yes, common sense. I guess I’ll probably drain the tank because I doubt anything I do under there is going to be very fast L O L
I was thinking about something, though when I saw that fluid peeing out of that line that was quite a bit of thick oil mud I wonder if there’s a chance that the fluid is coming out of a seal and just finding its way up through the mud?

I’m gonna make another attempt with the pressure washer before ordering a whole line. I’m assuming I can order seals for that line

 

[Ralph Harris]

OK update 100% sure I have a pinhole in that steel line. I’ll pressure washed it out real good and put my finger at approximately 2 o’clock on the dial and it’s coming out pretty hard.

 

[pittsburgh cat man]

If you do decide to braze it also check where the clips are it will be worn and could probably use some brass there too

 

[Welder Dave]

Don't use your bare hands to check for leaks. If the fluid is under pressure can penetrate the skin and potentially kill you. If the bucket was off the ground could still have a lot of pressure even with the engine off. If you braze the line make sure to build the braze up at least 3 times the thickness of the tube or it won't hold the pressure. O/A welding might be a better option. Under $300 for an OEM line isn't too bad especially when it's a main line and a beatch to get to.

 

[nicky 68a]

I think you’re biggest problem here is age of the machine.
That pipe work hasn’t seen the light of day in many years I guess.
A build up of oil and dirt has most likely corroded much of that lot.
Assume any pipes or fittings you need to remove to get to the culprit may well break or cause flexing to already corroded lines.
I know it’s a big pain,but I think you need to remove whatever is in the way and get in there properly.
It all needs cleaning to a good standard,then looking at how many pipes and fittings are leaking or about to start leaking.
If not,I think you’ll be going back in there

 

[Welder Dave]

Definitely good to inspect all lines and fittings when you're in there.

 

[Ralph Harris]

Thanks guys. I really appreciate it.
I ordered the line 298 shipped

Makes sense about rusting sitting in nasty stuff.

I’m hyper aware of anything under pressure having worked on refrigeration, boilers , pneumatics and such. That being said anything can happen at anytime to anyone.

Even though the machine looks very nice, what I’m finding is that these bottom plates were not removed on a regular basis so I plan on taking my time and inspecting everything that I can thanks everybody

 

[pittsburgh cat man]

When you get around to draining hyd tank a 1/2 inch nipple and a piece of heater hose screwed into drain valve on front bottom of hydraulic tank will make it a lot easier drain valve is behind little access door on front

 

[Ralph Harris]

Thanks, cat man I haven’t looked for the drain valve yet, but I will certainly do that. Makes a ton of sense.

 

[Nige]

I haven’t looked for the drain valve yet, but I will certainly do that.

I think you might be well advised to get hold of an Operation & Maintenance Manual that will contain illustrated procedures for stuff like this. Probably the best $50 you'll ever spend. Click this LINK and put SEBU5758 in the box then click the Search button. You can have a download in 5 minutes or less.

 

[Georgia Iron]

I just went through a bad hydrostat cooling line. 1" line with #16 jic fittings on each end. 40"s or so long. It was impossible to get it loose where it attached to the lower hydraulic cooling radiator. Went to last resort had to take off the lower radiator cooling pedestal to so all anti freeze was removed.

Attempted to use a crows foot end it snapped. Attempted to use an air hammer with chisel it would not budget. Cut slits into it with a cut off wheel as oil was dripping in my face and lips. Hot sparks in my hair and what not. Then used the air hammer to get it to break free and spin it loose. Fully expected to break the lower fitting off the radiator. Lots of fun. Had to drop the back belly pans. In the mud. Lost $500.00 in oil moving the machine out of the incredibly bad place the hose went bad.

I had a helper also, and the hose took all day long to fix and ended up costing me 1200.00 total with 8 hours of driving. It was almost as bad trying to get the new one back on and tighten up properly.

Putting it on , i stretched a
2nd crows foot end. Luckily I had a set of snap on 1" 5/8s hydraulic wrenchs with a big boxed end wrench that saved the day and the cutter. The draw backs of running older stuff. They sit and then when you put them back to work the weak stuff let's go and you get to spend lots of money till you straighten it out


Ruined my clothes and 100* heat. Not for the faint of heart this stuff loosing the day of production also cost me at least 1000.00. So yeah 2200 up a hogs ***

 

[HardRockNM]

I just went through a bad hydrostat cooling line. 1" line with #16 jic fittings on each end. 40"s or so long. It was impossible to get it loose where it attached to the lower hydraulic cooling radiator. Went to last resort had to take off the lower radiator cooling pedestal to so all anti freeze was removed.

Attempted to use a crows foot end it snapped. Attempted to use an air hammer with chisel it would not budget. Cut slits into it with a cut off wheel as oil was dripping in my face and lips. Hot sparks in my hair and what not. Then used the air hammer to get it to break free and spin it loose. Fully expected to break the lower fitting off the radiator. Lots of fun. Had to drop the back belly pans. In the mud. Lost $500.00 in oil moving the machine out of the incredibly bad place the hose went bad.

I had a helper also, and the hose took all day long to fix and ended up costing me 1200.00 total with 8 hours of driving. It was almost as bad trying to get the new one back on and tighten up properly.

Putting it on , i stretched a
2nd crows foot end. Luckily I had a set of snap on 1" 5/8s hydraulic wrenchs with a big boxed end wrench that saved the day and the cutter. The draw backs of running older stuff. They sit and then when you put them back to work the weak stuff let's go and you get to spend lots of money till you straighten it out


Ruined my clothes and 100* heat. Not for the faint of heart this stuff loosing the day of production also cost me at least 1000.00. So yeah 2200 up a hogs ***

Between sun rot, corrosion, and critters trying to build nests in places they shouldn't, sitting is hard on equipment. A expression around here is "lack of use is abuse". Any time we resurrect a machine that's sat for more than a couple of years, we basically bank on replacing all hoses.

 

[Ralph Harris]

Thanks guys Georgia ironthat sounds like some beach, although not as bad. This job has been a real pain in the arse. I finally got the diesel tank unbolted and moving around. I basically had to disassemble the whole front of the machine because of the way everything‘s interlocked something holding the tank in place, I believe it’s the fuel line. It’s got some flex fuel line on it and some rigid steel. It looks like I taking fuel lines off. But I might have to completely remove the tank to get to that line.

Sorry for the late reply I’ve been stupid busy

 

[Ralph Harris]

Nige I’m gonna invest in that book for sure

 

[Ralph Harris]

In my opinion, they did not build this machine to be easily worked on

 

[Nige]

In my opinion, they did not build this machine to be easily worked on

I think what you have to bear in mind is that it was designed/engineered to fit within an “envelope” of a certain size. To improve accessibility the machine has to get physically bigger, which is not an option. It’s an unfortunate fact of life that the smaller a machine is, the harder it is to work on. That’s why I prefer the bigger stuff because you can walk underneath it.

 

[pittsburgh cat man]

They aren't as bad as you think. Cab tilting makes some stuff a lot easier