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955K Tilt cylinder leaking

charlesscott

New Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2018
Messages
3
Location
NEPA
I searched and found a few posts on here that show the cylinder being taken apart on the machine. How hard is it to remove the cylinder? I would take it to have it rebuilt if I can remove it without major issues.

Thanks
 

charlesscott

New Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2018
Messages
3
Location
NEPA
61H596 is the serial number to the best of my ability to read the plate on the back of the machine.
 

kshansen

Senior Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
11,208
Location
Central New York, USA
Occupation
Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
Well SIS does not show any disassembly info for that one but does show the attached info for a 955L which might be very close. They show using a hydraulic puller to remove pins but not sure if that is really needed. Also they mention draining hydraulic take maybe someone else can comment on why that would be needed if the controls are in the "hold" position.
 

Attachments

  • 955K tilt.pdf
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bunkclimber

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2009
Messages
116
Location
MD
I pulled the tilt pins on my 977K when I changed out the H-frame mast and they would NOT budge,not even with a maul and working them back and forth with PB Blaster..finally had to use a hydraulic pull-back ram with a cobbled-up support to force them and it took quite a lot of force to get them to 'pop'-then they moved out no problem..try working the tilt levers back and forth with PB Blaster to soak them down as a first step,maybe inject thru the grease fittings if they are still there..be sure to have a support/hoist in place for the cylinder once the pins are out of socket..FWIW
 

Dave Neubert

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 18, 2018
Messages
1,679
Location
Monroe NC
I always just pop the pin out on the rod side and unbolt the head and pull rod and piston it will come out easier if you loosen the line on the rear of the cylinder so you don't get a vacuum holding the piston in. you need to handle the weight of the rod and piston with a lift of some kind probably 150 lbs
 

charlesscott

New Member
Joined
Dec 19, 2018
Messages
3
Location
NEPA
So it sounds to me like the easiest method is to pull the piston out while leaving the other end of the cylinder attached to the machine. I have a skid steer I can use to support the piston. Where is a good place to get parts? From what I have been reading I should be able to replace the "soft goods" and reassemble.
 

Cat977

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 19, 2006
Messages
505
Location
Madison WI
Occupation
Machinist/Millwright
The nut that holds the is really tight! and it needs to be! Match mark the position of the nut relative to the piston with a center punch. One way to remove/install put the rod end into the draw bar. Support things proper so you don't bend the rod.
 

tctractors

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 9, 2007
Messages
2,425
Location
Worc U.K.
I think on the 955 the tilt rod piston is a taper fit so after undoing the nut you might need to press off the piston, I just stand the rod up vertical and lift the gland cap up to the top of the rod eye, then throw the gland cap down onto the piston its not to the book but it works rather well. tctractors
 

leadfarmer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2019
Messages
232
Location
SW PA
Earlier this year I rebuilt one tilt cylinder on my 85J 955L. It wasn't too bad. I got new seals from CAT, which were not that expensive and they worked, so that's all that matters. It leaked for a little time after completing the job and then it stopped and I've been leak free all year. Some info here: https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/happy-new-955l-owner-with-questions.80272/page-12

I only removed the rod, and left the cylinder on the machine. I unbolted both fluid connections so I could get the rod out. I supported the cylinder with wood blocks on the loader arm. The rod with the seal block has some weight so don't be cavalier with it.

Plan on replacing the o-rings at those cylinder line connections.

I had to take it somewhere and have someone use a big impact to loosen the nut on the rod end to remove the seal block. I was able to torque it myself.

To get the rod back in the cylinder I lubed the cylinder and seals with hydraulic fluid, then ran a come-a-long up over the tower and down the top of the cylinder, and used that to pull the rod in while someone else kept it from cocking or moving around. It went easy.

Just follow the instructions that come with the seals and the info you get here and it should all work out.
 
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