jimg984
Senior Member
THANKS FOR REPLIES
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Advice for welding repair of 4 in 1 bucket
- Thread starter Scout_1969
- Start date
JL Sargent
Senior Member
I found this 309 rod on Ebay. This rod or a similar one should work on your stick welding machine.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/293700597527?hash=item4461eb7717:g:7IcAAOSwX4BfQCzE
https://www.ebay.com/itm/293700597527?hash=item4461eb7717:g:7IcAAOSwX4BfQCzE
Welder Dave
Senior Member
One of the experienced Tig welders on the Welding Web swears by 312 stainless for any difficult to weld steels. Just stainless to mild steel 309 is good without the added expense.
I would buy rods from a local welding supply instead of online. Heard a few stories where the rods were thrown around and the flux was chipped off on several rods despite having fragile handle with care labeling. Radnor is a private label for Airgas and the rods likely come from overseas. A lot of welders prefer name brand stainless rods like Avesta.
I would buy rods from a local welding supply instead of online. Heard a few stories where the rods were thrown around and the flux was chipped off on several rods despite having fragile handle with care labeling. Radnor is a private label for Airgas and the rods likely come from overseas. A lot of welders prefer name brand stainless rods like Avesta.
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Sorry for reviving an old thread but I figured this was better than having multiple 4in1 repair threads:
I need a little advice as to how one might repair this. Hire a guy doesn’t help me currently but I agree that’s the ideal option.
I planned on cutting off the section that the blade mounts to but what would be a reasonable fix for the small section above that? It opens to a closed cavity at the back of the bucket.
I need a little advice as to how one might repair this. Hire a guy doesn’t help me currently but I agree that’s the ideal option.
I planned on cutting off the section that the blade mounts to but what would be a reasonable fix for the small section above that? It opens to a closed cavity at the back of the bucket.
HarleyHappy
Senior Member
Can you take a picture of the whole bucket? The close ups are good but hard to see the whole picture.
HarleyHappy
Senior Member
Are you saying that the back of the Dozer blade is a compartmentalized design?
If so, you will just have to block it in, the best you can.
I would probably start either way a wide enough piece, welded to the back of the dozer blade, that can accommodate the base for the cutting edge.
Probably want to drill holes for the cutting edge first, unless you have access to a mag drill.
Then probably plate the front, high enough to get to good metal and weld it to the base plate on the back, with the weld edge at the back of the cutting edge.
If so, you will just have to block it in, the best you can.
I would probably start either way a wide enough piece, welded to the back of the dozer blade, that can accommodate the base for the cutting edge.
Probably want to drill holes for the cutting edge first, unless you have access to a mag drill.
Then probably plate the front, high enough to get to good metal and weld it to the base plate on the back, with the weld edge at the back of the cutting edge.
I like your plan of action Harley. Thanks for the tip on drill holes. Here’s a few more shots.View attachment IMG_3855.jpeg
JL Sargent
Senior Member
Used to haul salted snow? All the rotten has to go to where a straight edge can be achieved all the way. Ideally you would install a single patch that includes what looks like a needed small curl at the top. Take a big press to do it. Might could fit it up nice with 2 straight pieces. I would drill and install cutting edge to fit it all up and then when happy with that I would just tack it and then remove cutting edge before welding all that up. There are all kinds of bucket welding videos on Youtube to watch also.
Willie B
Senior Member
Understand the steel broke. Everything near it was stressed bad. Yes, you need to stitch up the crack, but repair must address that nearby steel is weakened. Not real clear from pictures, I'll say cutting out as much as 3/4" away from the bent sections, replacing with new.
I don't know the grade of steel the original bucket is built from, perhaps you can learn. I guess not more than 70,000 PSI tensile steel. If you will use stick filler you likely won't need stronger than 70,000 PSI filler. Any good, fresh 7018 is famous for ductility. The shrinkage from firm solid as it cools to ambient temperature causes immense stress (tension). Ductility is the forgiveness, (stretch) of thay pull. 7018 is hard to beat.
You might weld with fillers up to 110,000 PSI tension rating, if it pulls away as it cools you have failed.
The bucket failed. Why did it fail? If poor design. you must reinforce. If it suffered abuse, stop abusing.
I don't know the grade of steel the original bucket is built from, perhaps you can learn. I guess not more than 70,000 PSI tensile steel. If you will use stick filler you likely won't need stronger than 70,000 PSI filler. Any good, fresh 7018 is famous for ductility. The shrinkage from firm solid as it cools to ambient temperature causes immense stress (tension). Ductility is the forgiveness, (stretch) of thay pull. 7018 is hard to beat.
You might weld with fillers up to 110,000 PSI tension rating, if it pulls away as it cools you have failed.
The bucket failed. Why did it fail? If poor design. you must reinforce. If it suffered abuse, stop abusing.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
Your pics. are too close to tell what you're even looking at. The bottom of the 4 in 1 where the clam closes against it should have a thick edge. Judging by the holes there may have been a replaceable bolt on cutting edge for when you use the bucket like a dozer. I'd cut with a torch or even a cutting disc in a grinder above the rusted out part where it's still a decent thickness and see what's behind there. Cut a straight even line across the bucket. The bottom piece should be about 3/4" thick abrasion resistant steel and it needs to go a couple inches lower than where the clam closes against it. Once you cut the rusted part out you can see if there's internal bracing behind the bucket skin. 7018 will be fine for welding but if you get abrasion resistant steel ask what rod you need to weld it with. Standard mild steel will wear fast for the bottom edge. If you got a wide enough piece for the edge you could weld it to bucket skin unless you make a bolt on edge. I don't think I've ever seen a bolt on edge on the inside edge of a 4 in 1 bucket though. I have a 4 in 1 bucket and the bottom edge is just flat plate with no curve. It is indented some from the clam being forced against when closing it.
Looking again the lower part with holes need's to be replaced. This isn't a job for someone with little welding experience. You might be able to just replace the whole bottom part of the bucket with a thick plate 3/4" or even 1" thick.
Looking again the lower part with holes need's to be replaced. This isn't a job for someone with little welding experience. You might be able to just replace the whole bottom part of the bucket with a thick plate 3/4" or even 1" thick.
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View attachment IMG_3854.jpegWelder Dave, I appreciate the advice. Yes there is a cutting edge I unbolted (with the exception of one bolt I cut out) to get a proper photo and assess the extent of the corrosion/damage.
I’ll ask around about abrasion resistant steel.
I also understand this isn’t an easy job for an amateur…only grow through adversity eh?
I’ll ask around about abrasion resistant steel.
I also understand this isn’t an easy job for an amateur…only grow through adversity eh?
Welder Dave
Senior Member
If it's a JD bucket the bolt on edge should be available but pricey. Maybe it's a std. bolt pattern for a flat grader blade? The plate with holes needs to be replaced though. The bucket repairs could be mild steel but the cutting edge should be high carbon or a wear resistant steel.
I greatly appreciate all the advice and information. It’s definitely a substantial undertaking. The bolt on edge is possibly salvageable. I’ve been assessing the corrosion and it’s minimal.