• Thank you for visiting HeavyEquipmentForums.com! Our objective is to provide industry professionals a place to gather to exchange questions, answers and ideas. We welcome you to register using the "Register" icon at the top of the page. We'd appreciate any help you can offer in spreading the word of our new site. The more members that join, the bigger resource for all to enjoy. Thank you!

best grease?

daman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
237
Location
Bad Axe,MI
Occupation
Agriculture,Truck Driver,Mechanic
Any type of Heavy equipment pins/bush 5th wheels anything that "slides" one should use a 5% Moly fortified aluminum or calcium-sulfonate complex thickener base grease,it's very sticky/tacky stays where it's put HIGHLY resistant to wash out/pound out applications not like a Lithium base that will actually mix with water and wash away.

the new Amsoil Off-Road grease is very good as is Schaeffer's #238 Moly
 

mitch504

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 27, 2010
Messages
5,776
Location
Andrews SC
I hate that Mystik is owned by Argentina but their red grease and gear oil has given me excellent service for 20 years so I am scared to change.
 

FWDtruckparts

Member
Joined
May 10, 2010
Messages
19
Location
Michigan
Grease for pins and bushings

We use mystic JT6. I do a lot of custom farming and run six john deere tractors and six hay cutters, two round balers, a and three square balers. I also have a john deere 328 skid steer, and a D4G dozer. I don't have any problems with universal joints on cutters or balers or anything. I baled over 10,000 round bales this year. I am very pleased with this grease.

Grease that is good for pins and bushings in not even recommended for use in U-joints. u-joint and wheel bearing grease must be lighter and have much higher temp ratings than pin and bushing grease.

Pin and Bushing grease needs to be thicker so it does not get pounded out.

I use Mobile CM with Moly for pins and bushings. They also have mobile CMW for winter use but I don't buy that.

I use Mobile HP with Moly for U-joints and wheel bearings. I also use Mobile HP for pins and bushings in the winter as Mobile CM seems to heavy to use in the Winter.
 

FWDtruckparts

Member
Joined
May 10, 2010
Messages
19
Location
Michigan
Just wondering what brand/type of grease everyone finds to work the best for pins and bushing to prevent wear on there heavy equipment.


Grease that is good for pins and bushings in not even recommended for use in U-joints. u-joint and wheel bearing grease must be lighter and have much higher temp ratings than pin and bushing grease.

Pin and Bushing grease needs to be thicker so it does not get pounded out.

I use Mobile CM with Moly for pins and bushings. They also have mobile CMW for winter use but I don't buy that.

I use Mobile HP with Moly for U-joints and wheel bearings. I also use Mobile HP for pins and bushings in the winter as Mobile CM seems to heavy to use in the Winter. Mobil has gotten very expensive however.
 

daman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
237
Location
Bad Axe,MI
Occupation
Agriculture,Truck Driver,Mechanic
Shell SRS2000, recommended by Shell rep. Says it is their top seller around here.

no offense but yea...he wouldn't say Amsoil...lol


and that grease is sub par very average here,,many better..
 

daman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
237
Location
Bad Axe,MI
Occupation
Agriculture,Truck Driver,Mechanic
No the shell im talking,,that's a red grease right?? if it's the same stuff it was crap IMO washed out pounded out mixed with water it was terrible.

for years now we use Schaefer's #238 outstanding grease.

search back i got a post explaining better.
 

norite

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2010
Messages
483
Location
Sudbury, Ontario, Canada
I was at the Shell depot to pick up some Rotella 15w40 for the diesels and some Rotella T6 for the Duramax, so I figured I might as well pick up some grease as well. (was recommended Shell SRS2000 for use mostly on pins and bushings).

If it is that bad a grease what do the experts here recommend? It has to be available locally (Sudbury, Ontario, Canada) and I don't intend to buy Amsoil until they come out with a superior product that sells at a reasonable / competive price.

My equipment is old but in relatively good condition, paying for amsoil won't make my pins and bushings any tighter, I'll have to do that in the shop.

If I had a brand new machine, I might be tempted to use a premium lube, but in my experience, pins and bushings wear no matter what grease you use and greasing regularly is more important than the brand of grease.

I'll post back when I've had a chance to use the SRS2000 for a while.
 

daman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
237
Location
Bad Axe,MI
Occupation
Agriculture,Truck Driver,Mechanic
Last edited:

j.r.

Active Member
Joined
Jun 8, 2010
Messages
41
Location
baltimore
Occupation
hoe operator
ive always used the blue castrol and feel it work well. nothing fancy but it gets the job done.
 

norite

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2010
Messages
483
Location
Sudbury, Ontario, Canada
read my post #61

https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?t=4479&page=5

highly recommend it,,you can buy it on line reasonably priced and a little goes a long way,you'll find you grease less often because it stays put.

you want a Moly fortified grease,,5%

If you read my post I said I wanted to be able to buy it locally, I don't want to wait a week if I run out before I am supplied with grease again.

There is also a 5% moly version of SRS2000, the catch is it costs 40% more. If I am not satisfied with the SRS2000 I may give this a try.

Has anyone found a cost/benefit analysis on the different grease products out there, done by an independent tester? Which grease produces the best results at the lowest cost?
 

daman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
237
Location
Bad Axe,MI
Occupation
Agriculture,Truck Driver,Mechanic
If you read my post I said I wanted to be able to buy it locally, I don't want to wait a week if I run out before I am supplied with grease again.
There is also a 5% moly version of SRS2000, the catch is it costs 40% more. If I am not satisfied with the SRS2000 I may give this a try.

Has anyone found a cost/benefit analysis on the different grease products out there, done by an independent tester? Which grease produces the best results at the lowest cost?
A simple constant inventory check would cure that no? i'm sure you do that with your other supplies??

and if you have a dealer located by you(zip code search)he'll have it hand for you and no it don't take a week even IF you had to order it.


here click the link and type in your zip code and see if you have a dealer located by you i'd bet you do....

http://www.schaefferoil.com/dealer_locator.html

IF not here is a great web site that will ship it fast.....

http://www.speedpartz.com/oillubepage.htm

this grease is reasonably price and out standing performance.
 
Last edited:

Randy88

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2009
Messages
2,149
Location
iowa
Ok guys I've read over the replies and now I have quesitons, is this basically a ford, chevy, dodge debate as to what one is the best, can we summarize the different catagories grease falls into and who makes what and who just labels the tubes, I'm thinkng that the one who said maybe all red tacky grease is same and only have different pachage on the outside more like the case but I don't know. Are we comparing chevy to chevy and the only difference is the paint color on the outside,

I agree with norite and asking about an independant tester done any testing on the different products. I understand the moly thing and have used moly and yes I like it and I'd also have to agree with the synthetics are only higher priced I've used lithium grease and several others as well, I'd agree that some grease does some jobs better but does anyone have a cheat sheet so to speak as to what does what job. My oil/grease supplier told me years ago that the only basic difference between grease was the basestocks use to make it and the addatives put into it, so red grease was the same as any other red grease except for maybe an addative here or there, is this true? I'm not lookng for a sales pitch but more of an information pitch on grease. Please keep the replies coming and thanks for the interesting reading so far a lot of these names I've never heard of before.
 

koldsteele

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2010
Messages
223
Location
Va.
Occupation
Owner Heavy Equipment Mechanic
I've put more customers on Shaeffer 238 and all they want to know is where to buy it. When i first started using it i noticed that a lot less bearing failures in my customers grain drills ....Shaeffer 238 won't pound out.
 

daman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
237
Location
Bad Axe,MI
Occupation
Agriculture,Truck Driver,Mechanic
Ok guys I've read over the replies and now I have quesitons, is this basically a ford, chevy, dodge debate as to what one is the best, can we summarize the different catagories grease falls into and who makes what and who just labels the tubes, I'm thinkng that the one who said maybe all red tacky grease is same and only have different pachage on the outside more like the case but I don't know. Are we comparing chevy to chevy and the only difference is the paint color on the outside,

I agree with norite and asking about an independant tester done any testing on the different products. I understand the moly thing and have used moly and yes I like it and I'd also have to agree with the synthetics are only higher priced I've used lithium grease and several others as well, I'd agree that some grease does some jobs better but does anyone have a cheat sheet so to speak as to what does what job. My oil/grease supplier told me years ago that the only basic difference between grease was the basestocks use to make it and the addatives put into it, so red grease was the same as any other red grease except for maybe an addative here or there, is this true? I'm not lookng for a sales pitch but more of an information pitch on grease. Please keep the replies coming and thanks for the interesting reading so far a lot of these names I've never heard of before.
If you read back i explained why my recommendation is ideal for this kind of use.

I'll cover it quickly again....


1st...anything that "slides" like 5th wheels,,backhoe/excavator ,payloader pins/bushings,,drive shaft splines,,or even tie rod ends anything with a high load application/requirements etc,,etc,,etc..

you want a Moly fortifyed grease..you ask why?? well because Moly(Molbdenum)is a very good,excellent anti wear additive ok,and in these situations that's what is needed and wanted, obviously.

2nd..IF your looking for a good grease that will repel water hold up better against wash out and pound out and lets you grease LESS often your going to want a grease with a better base(thickener). Now most your common greases are going to be a lithium base(a thickener that will yes actually mix with water), yea it gets the job done but not ideal for this kind of use your going to want a aluminum or calcium complex base(thickener) this stuff will not mix with water has extra tackifiers in it to able it to "stay put" and not dry out wear off.


three greases that i have used are all covered under my above statement and are excellent grease with high timken ok load ratings.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/gpor2.aspx

http://www.schaefferoil.com/238_moly_grease.html

http://www.trclubricants.com/grease/moly880crownandchassisgrease/moly880crownandchassisgrease.html
 
Last edited:

nobull1

Charter Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2003
Messages
198
Location
Nova Scotia Canada
Occupation
Same as interests
daman,

I have researched grease for a long time and came to the same concussion as you. You need to have moly and a base that is not going to mix with water. The problem I have with calcium is it does not mix well with some other greases that a person might have been using previously and could be hard to remove (tracks, house gears) before switching to calcium. I use aluminium complex with moly from a supplier in western Canada. You cannot get Schaeffer in Canada for a reasonable price unless you have a local user or buy large quantities. For some reason aluminium complex with moly is not an easy find in our area. In the past I did use a red tacky aluminium grease without moly and found it lasted about half the time of the aluminium with moly before the bushings started to clack.
 

daman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
237
Location
Bad Axe,MI
Occupation
Agriculture,Truck Driver,Mechanic
daman,

I have researched grease for a long time and came to the same concussion as you. You need to have moly and a base that is not going to mix with water. The problem I have with calcium is it does not mix well with some other greases that a person might have been using previously and could be hard to remove (tracks, house gears) before switching to calcium. I use aluminium complex with moly from a supplier in western Canada. You cannot get Schaeffer in Canada for a reasonable price unless you have a local user or buy large quantities. For some reason aluminium complex with moly is not an easy find in our area. In the past I did use a red tacky aluminium grease without moly and found it lasted about half the time of the aluminium with moly before the bushings started to clack.
Hi nobull1,

yes our friends in Canada are usually stuck when it comes to certain things unfortunately, so them guy's have to use what is available for sure or pay the price for the item.

as far as compatibility you are correct some greases don't play nice together but from what i have found out is just keep feeding it in heavily eventually you'll get the old worked out.
 

nobull1

Charter Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2003
Messages
198
Location
Nova Scotia Canada
Occupation
Same as interests
If a person really wanted to use calcium they could use a cheap lithium grease, if not using already, before using calcium as they are compatible. Unfortunately the aluminium and calcium are not and could cause lubrication issues which is why I have not used calcium. The test for aluminium or calcium with water is to put some of your grease in your hand and add a couple of drops of water and try and mix. Aluminium and I believe calcium will not mix but lithium will easily and change colour.
 

daman

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2010
Messages
237
Location
Bad Axe,MI
Occupation
Agriculture,Truck Driver,Mechanic
The test for aluminium or calcium with water is to put some of your grease in your hand and add a couple of drops of water and try and mix. Aluminium and I believe calcium will not mix but lithium will easily and change colour.
Correct i was going to put that in my post but thought i was lengthly enough.

yes it will mix as you said.
 
Top