Big Tex 7x16 14K Trailer - Newbie Questions

[BMFR]

I recently picked up a used 7x16ft Big Tex bumper pull equipment trailer with what I was told has a 14K GVWR. I couldn't verify this because the manufacturer's data sticker had been worn off. I purchased this to be able to haul my MF 390 farm tractor (sorry, I'm not a pro heavy equipment operator). This trailer has a pintle hitch and surge brakes...which I did NOT find out about until picking it up. I have a few 'newbie' questions if anybody is willing to entertain them.



1. I've never owned or used a pintle hitch before. The lunette ring appears to be much larger than required for the pintle hook receiver mount that came with the trailer. The ring has a lot of play and therefore the trailer can slam/rattle forward and back in the hook as I accelerate and stop. See picture below. Is there a better setup to minimize or eliminate this slop to make towing smoother and reduce wear and tear? Is there any way possible to add weight distribution spring bars to a pintle style hitch?


2. Without any prior information on the trailer, how can I determine the GVWR? It does not have leaf springs, but does appear to have what I think is a torsion spring axle (see picture). However, when I jacked the trailer up it didn't seem to drop down at all, or at least I didn't notice it. I can't imagine having no suspension whatsoever, so maybe the weight of the trailer itself wasn't enough to displace it. The wheels are 8 lug and the hubs/drums have "8-219" and "10MT" cast into them.


3. I've never owned a surge hydraulic brake trailer. I was told before driving hours to go pick it up that it had 'electric brakes'. I was a very disappointed to find surge brakes. Any tips/tricks that I should know before hauling a load? How are they adjusted? There is a lever that is a mystery to me (see below). Should I look into converting it over to electric brakes?


Thanks!
BMFR

 

[skyking1]

1) the lever is for your emergency break away brakes. you need to put a lanyard from that lever to one of the safety chain attachment points on your truck, so that if the trailer somehow gets loose the brakes will be applied.
2) I think you have 7000 pound axles, based on the 8 lugs alone. the 6000 pound axles of the same design are typically 6 lug hubs.
3) I have never seen equalizers on a pintle hitch. Perhaps they need the more precise location that a ball hitch makes.
4) the heavier torsions like this don't give much with just the trailer weight. They do have a limited lifespan and tend to get stiff. Wait till you get a load on it and see how it rides.
5) on the torsion axles: they need to be towed as flat as possible. if the nose is high, the weight ends up on the rear axle and it does not equalize between the two axles, and vice versa.

 

[BMFR]

I'm not tracking on how the lanyard is going to engage the brakes. Does that lever 'flip' into a different position with enough force and lock up the brakes, requiring it to be re-set afterwards? Otherwise the lanyard would eventually snap and no more brakes again, or the lanyard would need to be just the right length to engage the brake while the trailer is hanging on the safety chains.

It seems that pintle hitches are common on heavier weight equipment trailers. I was thinking that I could remove the lunette ring and find a 2 5/16 coupler that could bolt into that existing surge brake assembly, which would permit use of a WD hitch. IMHO, heavy loads shouldn't be pulled with a bumper...but if you must, then use of a WD hitch helps a lot.

How does a guy test if a torsion spring is wore out? Can you replace just the spring or is it a complete axle remove and replace?

Thanks for the towing tips...that makes sense to keep the trailer level with torsion axles. Right now I'm a little nose low and this would get worse with a load on it.

 

[skyking1]

The lever does indeed trip a spring which applies the brakes. Get a lanyard on it.
If you are still hanging on the safety chains the premise is you will get it stopped and off the road using the tow vehicle brakes only. The lanyard is for when it is completely loose and going off independently.
The torsion axles are replaced as a unit. Don't get too excited about that yet. I tow with a 2006 torsion trailer very similar to yours and the axles don't move much either, and it tows just fine. I have everything similar except for electric brakes.

 

[BMFR]

I think I now understand how the emergency brake works. Upon inspecting mine, the spring plate did not catch the second sear to hold the brakes engaged. I clearanced that plate notch by another 1/8" and now it catches and holds well. Next step is to fab up a stainless cable lanyard. THANK YOU!


I am going to start trying to find a 2 5/16" coupler that fits the bracket to convert it to a ball hitch.

Anybody have any luck with an 'electric over hydraulic' conversion? I have no direct reason or experience to say that the existing surge brakes won't work for me, but my gut tells me that being able to use my brake controller in the cab must be a better way. I'm open to opinions/advice based on real world experience.

 

[CM1995]

Welcome to the Forums BMFR!

I recently bought a 4 pack of these for all our trailers. Really like this type over the hard wire break aways that come with most trailers. Put one my camper as well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097XXBH3N/ref=twister_B09685P1LM?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

Any trailer dealer or online source should have a 2 5/16" bolt on for the trailer. Personally I prefer a pintle for loads over 10K. YMMV.

 

[BMFR]

Those look much better than a homemade lanyard and will be less cumbersome. Ordered!

My max load will probably be 9K. Regardless, why do you prefer a pintle for heavy loads? I dislike the 'rattle' and that a WD hitch cannot be used.

 

[skyking1]

you are approaching the maximum capacity of a ball at that point. Pintles don't fail.
I agree the rattle is annoying, I wish they tightened up like the big pintles.

I have this type on the dump truck for the big trailer, but still use your kind for the small trailer.

 

[CM1995]

What Sky just said.

You can get a pintle only receiver hitch for the truck that will take some of the movement out but loose the 2 5/16" utility. I use a combo hitch on my pickup as well. Already carry a 2" ball receiver in the back of the truck for small trailers and I don't want a third receiver hitch to carry around. Only use the WD hitch for the camper trailer.

 

[Junkyard]

Properly maintained and adjusted surge brakes are superior to electric in my opinion (worthless is most circles lol). They just work. No controller? They work. Plug came out? They work. They’re also quite smooth assuming everything is working correctly.

Adjusting them is no different than any other hydraulic drum brake setup. My last experience with repairing electric brakes cost more than a comparable surge brake setup.

There is not a way to apply them independent from the tow vehicle which for some may be a negative. A properly loaded trailer and sensible driving should negate the need for trailer only brake application.

 

[TCat]

You may want to measure the size of your lunette eye. Can't tell from the pic, but they come in two different sizes, 2 1/2" and 3". The 3" will give you more play and movement especially when slowing down and making turns. I have a 3" on my trailer and it definitely moves a lot making turns. Somewhere I have a 2 5/16 coupler and I have a tri-ball that I keep in my truck that I have intended to swap out on my trailer, but just have never gotten around to it. My pintle and lunette eye setup is rated at 18k, so it's above what my trailer is rated it.

As far as surge brakes, personally I hate them, but that's just my opinion. I have them on my boat trailer and have replaced about every piece of the system including the master cylinder to get them in good working order after buying the boat and trailer used. Boat trailer brakes take a beating for sure. I personally prefer the ability to electronically adjust the hit of the brakes and to test to ensure they are working while on the road. Both systems have their drawbacks and your trailer could certainly be converter to all electric if you wanted to. That would require rewiring the trailer and buying the loaded backing plates and possibly drums, along with another trailer hitch and a battery backup for the breakaway. It wouldn't be too cheap I suspect. It all depends on how you want to go.

 

[crane operator]

Why wouldn't you just go to a 2 5/16" ball type hitch? I'm going to guess the former owner put this behind a small dump truck - so he wanted the big pintle. Looks like you just have a pickup bumper hitch, so I'd get rid of the slop. The 1" head start the pintle has- I'm sure its giving you a nice ride.

https://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufacturing-25328-Channel-Mount-Coupler/dp/B0050HHHTA?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

[TCat]

Why wouldn't you just go to a 2 5/16" ball type hitch? I'm going to guess the former owner put this behind a small dump truck - so he wanted the big pintle. Looks like you just have a pickup bumper hitch, so I'd get rid of the slop. The 1" head start the pintle has- I'm sure its giving you a nice ride.

https://www.amazon.com/Curt-Manufacturing-25328-Channel-Mount-Coupler/dp/B0050HHHTA?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

View attachment 286568

Won't have as many people looking at you to see what all those noises are when you go through parking lots. That's for sure.

 

[TCat]

I recently picked up a used 7x16ft Big Tex bumper pull equipment trailer with what I was told has a 14K GVWR. I couldn't verify this because the manufacturer's data sticker had been worn off. I purchased this to be able to haul my MF 390 farm tractor (sorry, I'm not a pro heavy equipment operator). This trailer has a pintle hitch and surge brakes...which I did NOT find out about until picking it up. I have a few 'newbie' questions if anybody is willing to entertain them.
View attachment 286485


1. I've never owned or used a pintle hitch before. The lunette ring appears to be much larger than required for the pintle hook receiver mount that came with the trailer. The ring has a lot of play and therefore the trailer can slam/rattle forward and back in the hook as I accelerate and stop. See picture below. Is there a better setup to minimize or eliminate this slop to make towing smoother and reduce wear and tear? Is there any way possible to add weight distribution spring bars to a pintle style hitch?
View attachment 286482

2. Without any prior information on the trailer, how can I determine the GVWR? It does not have leaf springs, but does appear to have what I think is a torsion spring axle (see picture). However, when I jacked the trailer up it didn't seem to drop down at all, or at least I didn't notice it. I can't imagine having no suspension whatsoever, so maybe the weight of the trailer itself wasn't enough to displace it. The wheels are 8 lug and the hubs/drums have "8-219" and "10MT" cast into them.
View attachment 286486

3. I've never owned a surge hydraulic brake trailer. I was told before driving hours to go pick it up that it had 'electric brakes'. I was a very disappointed to find surge brakes. Any tips/tricks that I should know before hauling a load? How are they adjusted? There is a lever that is a mystery to me (see below). Should I look into converting it over to electric brakes?
View attachment 286488

Thanks!
BMFR

If you did convert over to a 2 5/16 weight distribution ball mount, you could then use weight distributing bars on the trailer as well if you wanted/needed to. I was surprised at how cheap used ones in my area were going for on FB Marketplace recently. I thought about trying to sell the set from my camper when I went to sell it a couple of weeks ago, and I just ended up letting them go with the trailer. It wasn't worth the trouble for me to pull them off and try to sell them separately.

 

[CM1995]

Welcome to the Forums BMFR!


Any trailer dealer or online source should have a 2 5/16" bolt on for the trailer. Personally I prefer a pintle for loads over 10K. YMMV.

Why wouldn't you just go to a 2 5/16" ball type hitch?

Good idea..

 

[cfherrman]

How are surge brakes on ice?

 

[PeterG]

I have a similar trailer with surge brakes and pintle. Works well. Even though it has 7000lb axles, the steal beams seem undersized. I would not load it with over 10,000lbs of equipment including tie downs, buckets, plate compactor etc. Keep the pintle, stronger connection, and harder for someone to steel the trailer. Regarding the receiver, here is what I use: Check your lunette size.

CURT 48004 Pintle Hook Hitch for 2-Inch Receiver, 20,000 lbs, Fits 2-1/2-Inch Lunette Ring, GLOSS BLACK POWDER COAT, Amazon Prime $78.00.​

 

[PeterG]

On your title should be the vin number. Call Big Tex parts dept. and they will give you the build info.
Because it has surge brakes, it may have been a rental trailer and is licensed at 10,000 lbs. Such is the case with my old Hertz equipment rental trailer. The surge brakes work well, but I have spent money on installing the whole new surge brake system on this trailer and also on my boat trailer.

 

[BMFR]

There are no titles on trailers under 4,000 lbs in my state (which seems like encouraging theft), and the 'sticker' with the VIN and data is completely faded away.

I can imagine that this could have been a rental, dictating the surge brakes. I'll try to see if Big Tex can identify it by any other means. Maybe there is a hidden VIN in an obscure location that I could find.

The beams seem pretty beefy on this, but I really don't plan on maxing out the capacity anyhow. The pintle hitch is definatley a stronger connection, but I like the idea of using a WD hitch...especially becuase I have a spare since I converted my Travel Trailer over to a Hensley Arrow. WD makes a huge improvement in bumper towability.

 

[BMFR]

Properly maintained and adjusted surge brakes are superior to electric in my opinion (worthless is most circles lol). They just work. No controller? They work. Plug came out? They work. They’re also quite smooth assuming everything is working correctly.

Adjusting them is no different than any other hydraulic drum brake setup. My last experience with repairing electric brakes cost more than a comparable surge brake setup.

There is not a way to apply them independent from the tow vehicle which for some may be a negative. A properly loaded trailer and sensible driving should negate the need for trailer only brake application.

1. Do you have a link to a good resource for learning how to properly adjust surge brakes?

2. I have read somewhere that there should be a lever to disengage the surge brakes for backing up. I don't seem to see any other levers on mine. Where is this typically located?