Bought a -99 Samsung SE130LC-2, sadly, haha

[SteinarN]

As thread title says...
I got it for ca 16k. I think it was an ok price, I hope...
There is a lot of rust on the cabin, else it looks mechanically good, so far. Three buckets included.
But, the electrics is a disaster, electronics dont work, ofc. Someone have thrown in a number of relays, some of them for lights, some for quick coupler. I cut all loose, going to redo those functions properly, route the wires properly, connect onto original wiring properly etc.

In summary it is a LOT of work to get all fixed up. But I want to restore the machine to a very nice condition.

I found a pic of the wiring diagram on this forum. However if anyone have the colour coding for the wires I would greatly appreciate to have those codes

Added one pic of the electric disaster area

 

[SteinarN]

Well, a little progress.
Most of the electric circuits was still powered with ignition off, so had to use the battery main switch to kill battery drain at standstill. Found the power cables on the main battery relay was connected together on the same relay post, the relay was effectively always closed. Put back to original connection and the relay seems to be working/closing as it should, but now power goes off when ignition is off, as it should do.

Next is to figure out where the cut wires on the main relay card behind the seat should go. It seems like one relay socket is cut out and therefore it's wires is just hanging loose there.

 

[HarleyHappy]

Those are nice sized machines. Overall pics would be great.

 

[SteinarN]

Some more progress.
As I told the electronics dont work, so are running in manual mode.
There is only one solenoid that the electrics can control in order to limit the pump power consumption, I think it is called a P valve? It sits on the outer of the two pumps. In manual mode the valve get power via a 36 ohm resistor. In automatic mode the valve is controlled by the controller unit.

I can easily kill the engine with boom or stick movement bottoming out with the resistor in place in manual. But when I supply the full 28V to the P valve I cant kill the engine any more. If I simply remove the resistor altogether the movements get even faster, until bottoming out ofc. So the hydraulic system seems to be working as it should.

The hard task now is to figure out the switch panel and main controller and get that working.

 

[SteinarN]

A couple pics...
Rust is definitely an issue. Chains is at the end of their usefull life, sprockets as well. Stick cylinder is leaking, the other cylinders are good. Cylinder rods are very good age considered.

 

[SteinarN]

One more

 

[mowingman]

Quite a project. You have a lot more patience than I do. Good luck with the rebuild/repairs.

 

[SteinarN]

Quite a project. You have a lot more patience than I do. Good luck with the rebuild/repairs.

Hahaha, I doo like fixing up stuff

I had measured the speed sensor signal into the main controller, the other day, thought I had ok readings.
However, today I couldnt get any reading at the controller. Checked the wiring at the engine, this is what I found the state of the rpm sensor wire to be, quite catastrophic:


It is a shielded wire, luckily I had shielded wire and new contact on one end. Had to reuse the contact on the other end, but it was good, so ok to reuse it.


And the correct tools to crimp the contact


The finnished wire:


Now the RPM signal into the controller is good again, but the controller still dont work, the only part of it that works is that I can increase the RPM with the push button, but nothing else works, so far.

 

[SteinarN]

Dang, the RPM sensor is defective after all. It reads like 90Mohm, I think it should be like 1-2Kohm. Additionally I only get ca 1V AC at max rpm, I think it should be several volts at max RPM. I need to get a new sensor. Hopefully that is the only remaining problem to solve in order to get the electronics to work again.

I have already replaced a zener diode and a buck converter control ship in the switch panel.

 

[SteinarN]

I received the engine rpm sensor the other day. Now the electronics seems to work as intended. But it is a fairly rudimentary electronic control. I also replaced the top cover gaskets and bolts, so now the oil sprouting has stopped. They were so leaky that after pressure washing and when I removed the covers it was some water innside all covers from the pressure washing!
And I diagnosed a leaky radiator, but it is much better with a leaky radiator than say a leaky head gasket

But I seems to have one significant problem left. The pump is not destroking that much when dead ending. The engine dont die but it runs pretty much fully loaded at dead end. Thinking logically the pump regulator should keep pump pressure just below safety valve pressure so that when dead ending a function the flow to that function goes to practically zero ofc and the pump should destroke to keep the pressure below opening of the safety valve. So, the pump should deliver only leakage flow but at a high pressure. Horse power is flow times pressure so a miniscule flow at high pressure should only load the engine a little. I am pretty sure there is no excessive leakage anywhere, nor any excessive wear/leakage in the pump causing this. The machine is both very fast as well as powerfull. A friend/neighbour who have run excavators all his life was very pleased with the performance when he tried it.

The pv? valve at the pump is working. At L setting it get a constant 13V, at M setting it get a constant 11V and at H setting it actually get a variable voltage. It seems the electronics notices the engine slowing (quite) a bit when dead ending at H setting and in turn are increasing the voltage to the PV valve so that the engine then unloads considerably when dead ending. But then the rpm increases again and the pv get less voltage loading up the pump/engine again so it enters some kind of oscilation with pv voltage going from about 10V up to about 20V and down to 10V again one or two times a second while in H mode while dead ending.

Does anyone know how the relationship between the internal adjustable pump regulator and the PV valve is supposed to work? There is two adjustments on each pump, the outer pump is acessible but the inner pump adjustment is pretty much completely inacessible without removing the pumps!

Can someone tell me what these two adjustments are? One should be the safety valve? And the other the load sense pre setting adjustment? And the pv valve, how does that valve work, does it alter the load sense presetting adjustment? There seems to be an adjustment on the pv valve also, am happy if someone can explain that too

I have gauges to measure pressures, but havent made any readings yet.

 

[smifwal]

This is one thing I hate about buying used equipment, you have to touch everything even the stuff that looks like it was just repaired because well it looks like it was just repaired but when you get a deal, I just remind myself how much new one is and it keep me from getting frustrated.

 

[SteinarN]

I like investigating, fixing and improving. So for me it is more of a challenge in a positive way.

I have googled a bit since last post. Turns out there is a multitude of various pump control valve blocks available for this and other pumps. I found a nice brochure for the Kawasaki K3V pump which I think is on this excavator. There it is layed out no less than eight different pump control valve blocks. If those alternatives is to be trusted then it probably is a block called "Load sensing control+ Total horse power control+ Variable horse power control" on this excavator. If so then the electric solenoid must be controlling the "Variable horse power" port. No mention of any built in safety valve.

Google is arguing the safety valve on this machine sits on the main valve block, but I cant find any single safety valve there, only what looks to be individual adjustable valves for each function, but I'm not familiar with how any safety valve there should look.

Further this pump seems to have no High pressure cut-off valve/function, again acording to the brochure. That fits very nicely, sadly, with how the machine sounds in dead end situations. If that is really the case it will be time for machining and fabricating an additional valve block with High pressure cut-off functionality which I can install between the pump(s) and the original pump control valve block.

 

[smifwal]

I like investigating, fixing and improving. So for me it is more of a challenge in a positive way.

I can relate with that, but I am also a 1 man band so work all day and then come home and tinker then oh poop I need that on a job. I get real cranky when is it is not done and I have rent whatever it is that I am still working on

I have done a fair bit of googling myself on this vactron I bought at a auction

https://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/threads/my-first-pintle-hitch-trailer.124097/

I thought I had it all sorted out but trying to run it as it should be ran it was overheating. I am mechanically inclined but I have been throwing parts at it because they are cheap, like the 2 water temp sensors and a thermostat, (less than $100 for all 3) just did those yesterday hoping that is the cure, I will give it work out tomorrow