awful knawful
Well-Known Member
We have a cat 950f with 30 000 hrs. It's the yard loader, everyone runs it, some of them shouldn't. Power is getting low but still starts and runs well. Burns little oil.
AK
AK
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Can you tell how many hours to expect out of a well maintained engine?
- Thread starter joeeye59
- Start date
jdns
Member
Wet brake noise
Run the Deere oil. It has a additive for wet brake systems. I have seen the same problem happen on the Deere wheel loaders before. You my also have glazed the brake disk and piston from over the years of use. If you notice a change in the noise just from changing the oil then I would not think you have a worn out brake disk. I have not seen many worn out disks in my 14 years with Deere equipment repairs. Not saying it couldn't be worn out but doubtful. Try unlocking the brake pedals and just brake with one or the other brake and see if the sound is only in one or the other brake disk. If the brake lines are installed correct the right pedal controls the right brake.
Run the Deere oil. It has a additive for wet brake systems. I have seen the same problem happen on the Deere wheel loaders before. You my also have glazed the brake disk and piston from over the years of use. If you notice a change in the noise just from changing the oil then I would not think you have a worn out brake disk. I have not seen many worn out disks in my 14 years with Deere equipment repairs. Not saying it couldn't be worn out but doubtful. Try unlocking the brake pedals and just brake with one or the other brake and see if the sound is only in one or the other brake disk. If the brake lines are installed correct the right pedal controls the right brake.
hello, cant help jumping in because im currently negotiating on a jd 310G.The tractor is great ,(1400 hrs) except for the same brake chatter mentioned here.I dont know if I should buy or pass it up.I have other equip with wet brakes and have never had this issue.
CEwriter
Senior Member
industry average backhoe engine life
According to our research with Construction Equipment readers, the average 14-foot backhoe loader engine lasts 8,500 hours. The typical range (80 percent of experience) extends from about 7,000 to 12,000 hours.
These are average numbers -- reports of use from everyone from owner/operators to multinational construction giants.
For a story about backhoe component life, read Contractors Report Real Backhoe and ADT Life
Best,
Larry
According to our research with Construction Equipment readers, the average 14-foot backhoe loader engine lasts 8,500 hours. The typical range (80 percent of experience) extends from about 7,000 to 12,000 hours.
These are average numbers -- reports of use from everyone from owner/operators to multinational construction giants.
For a story about backhoe component life, read Contractors Report Real Backhoe and ADT Life
Best,
Larry
joeeye59
Senior Member
I figured I keep everyone up to date about my brake chatter.....
So far I'm happy with the way things have turned out..... I did nothing but change the fluid a few times, no additive, and the brake chatter went from the worst chatter ever from the softest touch of the brake peddle to now I can glide along and moderately applying the brake peddle with out any chatter, I still get the chatter but only when I'm slowing to a stop which is not bad, and a little harder on the pedal creeping along I get chatter, and at the last second of a long moderately brake application..... I think the machine is okay now because of hearing some chatter is normal....
Now at least when I go to sell it at some point the guy won't go running to his truck...
Oh yeah, I did adjust the three allen head set screws on each side of the axle, the piston stop screws that level off the brake disc to the piston when hitting the brakes, but it didn't look like any of them were way off, but of course they may have been off a little being were talking very little tolerances not noticeable to the eye?
So not sure if that made a difference in the way of creating a better or another contact surface, like backing and easing up on the hot spots between the brake disc and piston...
So far I'm happy with the way things have turned out..... I did nothing but change the fluid a few times, no additive, and the brake chatter went from the worst chatter ever from the softest touch of the brake peddle to now I can glide along and moderately applying the brake peddle with out any chatter, I still get the chatter but only when I'm slowing to a stop which is not bad, and a little harder on the pedal creeping along I get chatter, and at the last second of a long moderately brake application..... I think the machine is okay now because of hearing some chatter is normal....
Now at least when I go to sell it at some point the guy won't go running to his truck...
Oh yeah, I did adjust the three allen head set screws on each side of the axle, the piston stop screws that level off the brake disc to the piston when hitting the brakes, but it didn't look like any of them were way off, but of course they may have been off a little being were talking very little tolerances not noticeable to the eye?
So not sure if that made a difference in the way of creating a better or another contact surface, like backing and easing up on the hot spots between the brake disc and piston...
alanstr
Member
brake chatter
One thing I've seen from working on customers equipment is that the help will get plain hyd fluid and not the UTH because it is cheaper or don't know better.Was this machine a 1 owner operator and did his own maintainence?It's possible someone used AW32 or AW68 in the tranny/rear end not knowing it doesn't have the wet brake additives that a common sump oil like UTH has.I've been to farms where the help was using the wrong oil in the equipment.I had to replace the brakes on a MF tractor because they were seized.When I pulled the axle apart some of the brake friction material came off the disc and was packed up between the plates.When you changed the hyd filter was there any bits and pieces or metalic sediment in the filter housing?I also became an Amsoil dealer and use their products in just about everything with no problems.It's possible the Amsoil being a superior product may have stirred up some sediment.I've changed plenty of hyd oil and filters over the years and sometimes when a cover has been removed you can see sediment laying on the bottom,in nooks and crannys and doesn't drain out.As far as engine life goes be sure to use a coolant conditioner to keep the liners from pitting.I've replaced a few of them over the years also with pin holes in them right above the lower O rings.You'll know if that happens,coolant will end up in the oil and the engine will run hot because the radiator level will drop.Also when you see the vent tube breathing like a steam engine you'll need at least a set of rings.
One thing I've seen from working on customers equipment is that the help will get plain hyd fluid and not the UTH because it is cheaper or don't know better.Was this machine a 1 owner operator and did his own maintainence?It's possible someone used AW32 or AW68 in the tranny/rear end not knowing it doesn't have the wet brake additives that a common sump oil like UTH has.I've been to farms where the help was using the wrong oil in the equipment.I had to replace the brakes on a MF tractor because they were seized.When I pulled the axle apart some of the brake friction material came off the disc and was packed up between the plates.When you changed the hyd filter was there any bits and pieces or metalic sediment in the filter housing?I also became an Amsoil dealer and use their products in just about everything with no problems.It's possible the Amsoil being a superior product may have stirred up some sediment.I've changed plenty of hyd oil and filters over the years and sometimes when a cover has been removed you can see sediment laying on the bottom,in nooks and crannys and doesn't drain out.As far as engine life goes be sure to use a coolant conditioner to keep the liners from pitting.I've replaced a few of them over the years also with pin holes in them right above the lower O rings.You'll know if that happens,coolant will end up in the oil and the engine will run hot because the radiator level will drop.Also when you see the vent tube breathing like a steam engine you'll need at least a set of rings.
joeeye59
Senior Member
To touch on some of what your saying I did get the file with the history on this machine since it was put in service, it was a one owner unit and maintained very well according to the records. I even called the service company and asked what he used for oil/fluid being the backhoe runs great with 9K hours, he said they used Castrol for everything.
Since I started getting all my oil/fluids at the JD dealer things seem okay.
I did get the coolant additive for the electrolysis along with new antifreeze thats pre-mixed at the JD dealer..... When I was looking at used machines I seen that a unit owned by a private do-it-your-selfer rather than a unit owned and maintained by a business is where I seen the difference in how it was kept up, it looked to me that a private owner uses all the wrong oil, fluids & antifreeze at the bargain stores buying the cheapest fluids out there that often don't meet vehicle requirements, where a unit maintained by a pro using the correct fluids the machine was in great shape.