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Case 1840 1850 hrs rpm fluctuated, engine idled down and quit, now won't start

drillmd

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Az
Occupation
Sales and product support for a manufacturer of dr
First time poster so go easy on me and help me to follow the rules. I have been very impressed with this forums profesionalism by the intelegent and experienced people. My Case 1840 (has 1850 hrs and I have owned it for 7 years using it about 50 hours a year) was running good, getting low on fuel. Engine started to increase rpm then decrease then increase under no particular load. Trammed to my shop (yard next to garage)raised the loader frame and put in safety bar. Throttled down and it died.
Steps taken;
Filled with fuel
Changed fuel filter
Bleeding with lift pump produced good flow from IP top cover bleed screw.
Removed FSoff sol, jumpered with batt and observed plunger function to be ok and no contamination visable.
Removed injection lines at pump, cranked engine with FSoff sol powered by seperate battery, as machine voltage drops to 9V during cranking. Small trickle out of each inj outlet pipe.
Removed fuel inlet pipe, cranked engine and fuel dis appears from inlet and small trickles of fuel out of IP outlets.
Removed top cover and linkage is free to move. So free it feels as if it is not hooked to anything down in the pump but I do not have an internal illustration so do not know what it is supposed to do.
Questions;
Are there more checks / repairs I can do in chassis or does the pump have to come out?
Should I try and start the machine with the plunger removed from the FSoff sol? Manual shut off lever doesn't want to move very easily and I don't want to get it started and not be able to shut it off.
If pump removal is the only option is there a remove and install proceedure posted somewhere?
Any help would be appreciated.
 

Delmer

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
8,923
Location
WI
getting low on fuel. Engine started to increase rpm then decrease then increase under no particular load.

That's classic symptoms of running out of fuel. If it doesn't start right up after refilling and bleeding the air, then loosen one injector line at the injector and crank it till you get fuel with no air. Then tighten it up and it will usually start.

I don't know if you messed anything up with the linkage or not, but it sounds like you're getting a trickle out of the injection pump so it's worth a try to put it back together and loosen a line at the injector.
 

alrman

Senior Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Messages
3,319
Location
QLD Australia
Occupation
Diesel Fitter;Small Business Owner;Cleaner
Welcome to HEF drillmd!
Does sound to me like it has not been bled properly.
1) You may have a blockage at the fuel pick up in the tank. Blow some air back through the feed line to the lift pump to tank, & re prime.
2) Does it have an in-line fuel filter fitted? - change it also.
3) There are 2 bleed screws at the injector pump - the lower one is the all important one, the upper one is for decoration.
Let us know how you go ;)
 

drillmd

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Az
Occupation
Sales and product support for a manufacturer of dr
Thanks to all for the suggestions. Am on the road all week and will try on Saturday and let all know how it goes.
 

apetad

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2012
Messages
385
Location
Leander, Texas
Occupation
Compact Construction Equipment Sales
There's a shut off valve at the fuel tank, Make sure that someone's not shut it on you!
 

drillmd

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Az
Occupation
Sales and product support for a manufacturer of dr
So I checked fuel valve and it was open. Took the top of the lift pump off and good fuel flow. Reassembled the IP top cover and reconnected the fue lines one loose at the injector. Bled the IP using the lower and upper bleed screws following Altman suggestion and had a lot of air in the lower. With battery fully charged engine cranked but seemed slow. Took an hour of cranking and cool down but finally got fuel to an injector. Did other three before engine would start. I think it was the suggestion from down under that was the winner. Now for an additional piece of info. I traced the slow cranking speed to a bearing going out in both the fan hub and tensioner. I think the slow cranking rpm contributed to the difficulty of priming and hope this helps some one else in the future. Probably lucky this happened now instead of finding the bad bearing by putting the fan through the radiator. In the process of replacing those bearings now and then should be good to go. Thanks to all, especially Aussie land, for the help.
 

drillmd

Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2015
Messages
5
Location
Az
Occupation
Sales and product support for a manufacturer of dr
Sorry Arlmam. I didn't catch the spell check of your name. Thanks again for the suggestion.
 
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