Case 1845c questions: Block heater, parking brake, hydraulic hoses

[Larpy]

Good to see a Chiefs fan in Bronco country.

Thanks....even though we did not pull it off

 

[Larpy]

That's a good question, never had to deal with those kinds of altitudes. The average elevation here is around 525 ft above sea level!

Not sure but might try running it by The Pump Guy, start a conversation with him at "thepumpguysc".

At that altitude I would expect a noticeable loss of power and maybe a bit more smoke due to the reduced oxygen. I'm assuming this is a non-turbo engine like the one in our 1845C.

Yep, It is non-turbo.

 

[Dmoneyallstar]

Good to see a Chiefs fan in Bronco country.

GO CHIEFS! And I'm in crappy Browns and Lions country. Was so sad to see everything that happened to KHunt -- we both went to UofToledo.

Larpy...if you haven't done so already for your block heater, buy the new block heater and then just try replacing the cord. The interface / pins get a little corroded in the cord-end. I replaced my cord only and the block heater works perfectly and pretty quick. My old cord was green and corroded on the end. Block heaters are merely a controlled short and work on technology older than Thomas Edison. Nothing computerized or complicated about 'em.

And please never ever ever underestimate the power of gravity and the power of hydraulics. Physics don't discriminate flesh over steel.

 

[kshansen]

It is easy to test the block heater. Just connect a Ohm Meter across the two terminals of the heater.

I'm thinking a block heater for an 1845C would be about a 750 watt heater so at 120 volt that would read at approx. 19 ohms across the two terminals. Also test from each terminal to the engine block should shop "infinite" reading.

If both those check out then worst you should need is a new cord after a good cleaning of the contacts. New block heater might go for around $60.00 but with a little shopping around the cords can be had for around $20 or less with free shipping.

 

[Larpy]

Thanks for the input guys! I spent 7 hours media blasting all the control arms and linkages as well as the ROPS and lower base. They turned out great! A ton of work but worth the results. My brother passed away so I have had to travel which is slowing my progress. I did get a bunch of new parts including 5 new LED Lights, seals, and piston rebuild kits. My next HUGE goal is to remove the lift arm from the chassis. I need to media blast it which will be done more thoroughly off the chasis itself. Not sure how to do that yet but I have a forklift, chains, man power and ideas. That combination makes me dangerous lol.

 

[kshansen]

Sorry to hear about your brother.

Most important thing to do when removing something big and awkward shaped like that boom is to "THINK BEFORE ACTING"!

Second and maybe more important is to keep away from pinch points and have an exit route on the chance things start going wrong!

 

[Larpy]

Spent a little time in the paint booth tonight. A fresh coat of primer and equipment enamel on the linkage assemblies to the hand controls. They came out great! No more greasy mess.
New bushings and bearings for the install. ROPS and base into the big booth on Sunday!

 

[kshansen]

Spent a little time in the paint booth tonight. A fresh coat of primer and equipment enamel on the linkage assemblies to the hand controls.

Dang Larpy you going to work that 1845C or put it on display in a museum?

All kidding aside, clean machine with fresh paint is easier to keep clean and spot any problems while still small! I've got a few small jobs on my property if you need some place to "Test Run" it!

 

[InternalCombustion]

Greetings all. Noob here. Real OLD Noob.

This past Spring, after tons of research I got a nice 1845C, 2,300 hours, bought from a dealer in Virginia and shipped to my home in Central Colorado for personal / ranch use / blizzard survival. I bought a shop manual and parts catalog, did some modest maintenance as needed, upgraded the lighting, switches, and just put on new Carlisle UltraGuards. Dang sweet machine.

My place is at 8,400 feet and even with the 1845C being kept indoors in my shop, starting it below ~45 F is a pain, as everyone here knows. Time for a block heater. The consensus here seems to be the 750w 196803A1 heater. I'm sure you can get cheaper but I break out in a rash when I install cheap parts on my vehicles. So I'll go with the above part.

Question: say I'm starting at 30 F or so (in the shop). Approximately how long would it take to heat the Cummins block to a reasonable starting temp (~50). My point is I don't think that heater has any thermostat control (i.e., "if it's plugged in, it is heating") so I don't want to leave the heater on longer than necessary. So how long? A couple of hours to go from say 30 F to 50?

Thanks. Great forum.

IC

 

[kshansen]

With the machine parked inside out of wind I would say 2-3 hours should be a good starting point.

Another idea might be a cord with thermostat, just a suggestion:
https://www.hotstart.com/product-search/in-block-replacement-thermocords/

Or check with this outfit:


Let them know what you are working on and the conditions and they may have a good solution for you!

 

[InternalCombustion]

KS, excellent. I’ve done a fair amount of research on thermostats, but obviously not enough since I never saw these options. Nice. I’ll check these out.

Much appreciated!

 

[kshansen]

KS, excellent. I’ve done a fair amount of research on thermostats, but obviously not enough since I never saw these options. Nice. I’ll check these out.

Much appreciated!

Most of the equipment at the quarry was just plugged in at end of day and left on over night. Just one machine we were having problems with burning out the in-block heater so I went to one of the thermostat controlled ones and it seemed to work out good.

One note on block heaters. It is always a good idea to unplug them before starting equipment as some times when coolant starts flowing there can be some air in the coolant and the heaters can overheat in a short time.