Case 1845c won’t stay running

[chris_pops]

Evening everyone,
Home your all having a good thanksgiving. This is my first post here hopefully someone can help me. I’m working on an 1845c the machine starts right up runs for about 45 seconds then shuts off starts right back up but turns off within a few seconds. Battery connections are cleaned and reattached. What I believe is causing the problem is a white wire I found coming out of the factory wiring harness connected to a red wire coming out of the ignition switch. When you turn the ignition to on the wire gets hot enough to melt the glue in the shrink connector, when this wire is hot the machine won’t stay running but when cool it will run until the wire heats up again. If I knew what the wire was I’d just run a new wire but I haven’t been able to find a wiring schematic anywear if anyone has any ideas I’d greatly appreciate the help.
-Chris

 

[thepumpguysc]

What injection pump are we talking about?? they put about 3 diff. ones on that engine.
The wire that gets hot, is it going to the shut down solenoid on the injection pump?
Is the solenoid a 1 wire, 2 wire or 3 wire solenoid?

 

[Delmer]

the wire connection is heating up for one of two reasons, it's either carrying more current than it's supposed to, OR it's a weak connection that has too much resistance and as it heats up it gets more resistance until there's no voltage being delivered to the injection pump or where ever it goes. The simplest thing to try is cut the wires back to where they're solid and clean, temporarily wire in a 15 amp fuse with two female spade connectors, and see what happens when you start it up.

This is assuming that the previous owner didn't cobble stuff around every which a way, in which case you might want to figure out the wiring diagram and see if it's correctly wired first.

 

[rondig]

Pull , hold, ground...if it starts good....sounds like hold is weak or not getting enough juice...also check adjustment plunger most bottom out to hold and not create to much heat

 

[chris_pops]

Thanks for the responses. I’ll be working on this machine again within the next few days I’ll let you know how I make out.
-Chris

 

[chris_pops]

So here’s what I’m working with. I found the other end of the wire circled in blue,below the wire there are two spades one of which has nothing connected (blue arrow) which is where I believe the wire slipped off of, then the red arrow has a single black wire going to it but I couldn’t get a good picture, what are your thoughts? I’m assuming one of these is the solenoid but I’m not sure as this is not the type of shut off solenoid I’m used to seeing. Unfortunately I was not able to do much other testing as the owner changed the key cylinder and I forgot to bring the new key with me‍♂️ Thanks in advance
-Chris

 

[thepumpguysc]

The BLUE is the shut-off/stop solenoid.. ya GOTTA have power to it to start.. u should hear/feel it click.
The RED is the cold start solenoid.. I think it runs off the empty spade on the sh/off sol.
Its just a wax motor that heats up & changes the timing..

 

[alrman]

There is only ever one wire attached to the shut off solenoid. (blue arrow in pic 2)
Some of these models had the cold start solenoid & some didn't - the pics don't really show if there is one on this machine.
It would be located on the bottom or side of the pump.+
Does this machine have a large yellow timer relay near the fuse box? They are often the cause of no start or weird shut down problems.

 

[thepumpguysc]

I can see it has a CSD on the side of the pump, pic#2 next to the red arrow.

 

[chris_pops]

The machine fired right up and ran till I shut it off 30min later. I assume the wire that slipped off the spade must be something to do with the cold start solenoid then? And when it grounded on the rail it stole voltage from the shutoff solinoid and shut the machine down. All is well now thanks for the help!
-Chris