Case 580B Boom Cylinder Gland and Piston question

[Friendof580B]

Hello everyone,
I have one of my 580B Boom cylinders removed and disassembled for seal replacement.

It had been sitting idle for quite a while with boom in transport position and found that the outer gland seal rubber was completely deteriorated. The gland and rod came out of the tube without too much difficulty using a spanner wrench and long lever. I found it had been beat up quite a bit from previous owners..
I was able to finally get the gland off the rod using some light penetrating oil and tapping with 4x4 wood blocks. The gland had some internal light rust and crud, evidently from the rain and dust getting in from the bad end seal.

Question: Is there any need to replace this gland or just cleanup and new seals & internal bushing are all that is needed. (please see pics)
Also my parts book shows there were 2 or 3 part number variations of this boom gland over the years, and mine appears to be one of the older style glands and 2 piece piston.

Is there a preference/need to convert to the newer style gland or piston or just keep this style? (*Does newer gland design have better seal life, etc..)

piston if

Thanks in Advance!

 

[Tinkerer]

The two piece piston is quite normal for that application.
The gland is fine. Clean it up but don't go crazy and remove any metal. That outer seal is called a wiper seal.
A new seal kit does not always contain the piston seals and the gland seals.
Pay attention to what the vendor's describes for the seal kit contents.
There is almost always more seals in kit than you need. That is because they can sell one kit that covers a multitude of different cylinders.

 

[Swetz]

I am with Tinkerer, clean up the gland and use it again. The sealing parts are all that matter, as well as the threads.

 

[Delmer]

Replace the bushings only if they need it, they're usually fine.

 

[Friendof580B]

Tinkerer, Swetz, Delmer,
Thanks for the quick response, that's great news that the gland can be reused!
The gland threads and external o-ring area looked pretty good.
I was looking at buying a seal kit from FoxKits.com that included the piston wear ring G33181 which my piston uses. Their pic seems to match up with all the seals and rings that I've pulled out so hoping that would be a good choice. (Hoping their pic is accurate for the actual kit and not just generic..)

Heres some pics of the seals and rings I've taken out. The middle piston ring in the group was crumbling apart when I disassembled piston.
I think this gland just had these 3 pieces but please let me know if you think there anything missing that it should have .
Thanks again!

 

[Tinkerer]

The split fiber bushing should be included in the kit. I have never reused an old one.

 

[Friendof580B]

The split fiber bushing should be included in the kit. I have never reused an old one.

Thanks Tinkerer, I just ordered the kits so I'll post some pics when I start reassembly.

While waiting, what is the preferred method now for tightening piston bolt-Case manual shows the boom piston bolt at 475-525 ft-lb.,
Are you guys torquing these or just going back with an impact on them?
I've seen pics online of people doing it both ways but want to go with whats best. (I was considering making an extension bar and putting my 250ft-lb torque wrench on end of that to get the torque)

Is blue loctite still used on piston bolt threads as well?
Thanks

 

[Tinkerer]

I use the correct size socket on the bolt and then I use a 24" pipe wrench with a piece of pipe for a handle extension on it.
Then I put a track bar in the pipe and tighten the bolt down.
You will destroy your torque wrench if you go beyond it's maximum reading.
You can use blue or red Loctite on the threads.
I don't use the stuff.
I never have had a piston bolt come loose yet.

 

[Friendof580B]

I use the correct size socket on the bolt and then I use a 24" pipe wrench with a piece of pipe for a handle extension on it.
Then I put a track bar in the pipe and tighten the bolt down.
You will destroy your torque wrench if you go beyond it's maximum reading.
You can use blue or red Loctite on the threads.
I don't use the stuff.
I never have had a piston bolt come loose yet.

Thanks Tinkerer,
I like your method for tightening the bolt, I should have everything here to do it that way, I have a couple of 36" pipe wrenches and some pipe lying around.

 

[Swetz]

I am gathering that this is your personal tractor. If I am correct, you do not need locktite. If the cylinder was going to cycle full time, like millions of times, maybe. But, if you are using it on your property, the seals will get old and require replacement again in 10-15 years (read, not worn out, old and brittle), you will thank yourself for not putting on locktite if you do them again.
500 ft-lb is not crazy. You should have no problem achieving the proper torque with a pipe on a socket or breaker bar.

 

[Friendof580B]

I am gathering that this is your personal tractor. If I am correct, you do not need locktite. If the cylinder was going to cycle full time, like millions of times, maybe. But, if you are using it on your property, the seals will get old and require replacement again in 10-15 years (read, not worn out, old and brittle), you will thank yourself for not putting on locktite if you do them again.
500 ft-lb is not crazy. You should have no problem achieving the proper torque with a pipe on a socket or breaker bar.

Thanks Swetz,
Yes its just mine for personal use, for dirt work and some light/med land and fence row tree clearing. I guess I was trying to overthink the torquing, thinking I needed some elaborate setup to do it.

I didnt see any loctite remnants on the bolt when I removed it. Like you mentioned, they can be such as pain to remove, Years ago I remember being required to use red loctite at work on some high vibration industrial equipment, and it worked but the next time we needed to disassemble it was a major frustration to remove parts without damaging something..

 

[Delmer]

166# guy on a 3' pipe wrench or cheater bar= 500 foot pounds. no jumping.

 

[Friendof580B]

Thanks guys, I had gotten myself waaay off track with the torquing..
For some reason I had it in my head that I needed something like a 6-7ft cheater pipe to just to torque the boom at 500ftlbs and then something like a 10ft or more to do the 1000-1200ftlbs (if I do the swing cylinders and dipper.)
I guess I was just figuring a force of 75-100lbs at the end of the bar instead of using actual body weight..
Thanks for bringing me back to reality

 

[jimg984]

10ft cheater x 200 weight/man===2000lbs torqe
10ft cheater x 100 weight/man====1000lbs torque
just keep breaking out numbers to find what you want