HarleyHappy
Senior Member
Duh, I just had to replace a temp sensor the other day.
well think I found my problem. I can pull the harness of the switch with ease and the switch has the little prongs to hold the harness end on. I really don’t want to go about replacing the whole harness for the one connection end. Does cat just sell the end that goes onto the switch?The high coolant temp warning light is not activated by a sender/sensor but by an NO switch that closes when the temperature reaches a certain value. Note where wire #406 inputs to the warning light module.
I would say do a simple test first. Unplug the 2-pin connector E-C4 at the switch. Does the light go out completely.? If it does then you have a malfunctioning switch.
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You shouldn't have to. Post a photo of what you currently have for connector(s) on the end of the engine wiring harness.I really don’t want to go about replacing the whole harness for the one connection end. Does cat just sell the end that goes onto the switch?


I’ll have to check tomorrow what the inside looks like but after looking at the connector part number you sent me my connector didn’t have a little metal retaining clipThe connector Part Number is a 100-3320, and the seal in the back side is 126-5011.
However from your description I thiink that the problem lies in the two terminals inside the connector. To help identify the correct terminal, which of the illustrations below most closely reseomlbes what is inside that connector.?
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Yours should've had the metal retainer, that's probably why it unplugs so easy.I’ll have to check tomorrow what the inside looks like but after looking at the connector part number you sent me my connector didn’t have a little metal retaining clipView attachment 337445
That’s what I’m thinking. It definitely was not there when I looked at the plug for the first timeYours should've had the metal retainer, that's probably why it unplugs so easy.
Well definitely didn’t fix the problem light came on instant I started the engine ran it good for 45 min shut it down half the radiator was cold so I’m assuming everything works and it’s the plug no pushing coolant or anything like the engine was really hot. The light in those 45 min stayed on for about 10 then went off for a good 30 min then can back on last 5 minYours should've had the metal retainer, that's probably why it unplugs so easy.
Yeah problem still persists I’m debating changing the actual sensor nowThe connector Part Number is a 100-3320, and the seal in the back side is 126-5011.
However from your description I thiink that the problem lies in the two terminals inside the connector. To help identify the correct terminal, which of the illustrations below most closely reseomlbes what is inside that connector.?
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I'm sorry but I think you are assuming wrong. IMHO 45 mins of working the machine should have had the complete cooling system includsing the radiator up to full operating temperature. Maybe first the functioning of the cooling system requires investigation rather than the sensor.?I started the engine ran it good for 45 min shut it down half the radiator was cold so I’m assuming everything works
Sorry I should rephrase it wasn’t cold where the fan blows on the rad was cool enough to touch by hand by on all edges and everywhere else the rad was hot. Which leads me to believe the water pump and thermostat should be working. Coolant is full to the brim in the rad and just by me turning the machine on the coolant overheating light should not be on and stay on when the engine is coldI'm sorry but I think you are assuming wrong. IMHO 45 mins of working the machine should have had the complete cooling system includsing the radiator up to full operating temperature. Maybe first the functioning of the cooling system requires investigation rather than the sensor.?
Also I think you would benefit from investing in an infra red thermometer so that you can shoot actual temperatures of the radiator, hoses, thermostat housing, etc. One can be had for $20 or less.
But I will put a inra red on it and see if it reads anything above 200 or soI'm sorry but I think you are assuming wrong. IMHO 45 mins of working the machine should have had the complete cooling system includsing the radiator up to full operating temperature. Maybe first the functioning of the cooling system requires investigation rather than the sensor.?
Also I think you would benefit from investing in an infra red thermometer so that you can shoot actual temperatures of the radiator, hoses, thermostat housing, etc. One can be had for $20 or less.
I’m hoping too, can’t hurt at this point I guessMy 246B had the same issue, ended up being the temp sensor. Super easy to replace. Hope it's just that easy for you, as it was for me! Good luck.
Yeah, I haven’t tried it yet because sometime when I start the machine the light never goes off for like 10 min then will flicker and go off until I turn the machine off and back on. Sometimes the light never comes on eitherMaybe I missed it but I don't see it posted anywhere that you tried running the machine with the coolant temperature switch unplugged. If the light stays out with the switch unplugged then it's likely the switch. If it keeps coming on while unplugged I'd be looking in to a harness issue.
Just ordered one , also going to unplug sometime soon when the weather isn’t crap in Wisconsin.I had to replace the temperature sending unit on my Kubota a few months ago. Light was on constantly, buzzer wasn’t buzzing, just for a second.
Unplugged first and light went out. Seemed to OHM fine but still had to replace and all is well now.