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cat 297c
- Thread starter Paul Wade
- Start date
Nige
Senior Member
There should be 2 wires to that unit, 327 Pink and 200 Black, the latter being the ground. Just to mention here that the 200 Black joins with a gazillion other back in the harness and ends up at the platform ground stud.
The fuel pump should not run unless that Black wire has somehow been grounded to somewhere else on the machine frame.
The fuel pump should not run unless that Black wire has somehow been grounded to somewhere else on the machine frame.
Nigeria, there are 4 wires to fuel pump. One big red wire , one big black, one very small red and one very small black. The very small black one is the one broken. The pump does come on when unit is started and fuel pump runs roughly 10 seconds. Im assuming the big wires run the pump. Im wondering what the two small wires do and if they run to ecm and could possibly lock system down if ecm doesn't detect it?.
Nige
Senior Member
IMHO someone has been butchering the wiring. Your photo shows a connector (circled) and a protective sleeve (arrowed) both of which are not OEM Cat parts. The electrical schematic shows one Pink and one Black wire, both 18 SWG, to the fuel priming pump. There are no red wires.
Nige
Senior Member
It might be worth your while tracing that additional wiring and find out where it goes. I'm assuming that a previous owner installed it to fix an actual or perceived problem.
I think it actually may go to a back up camera... but Im not 100% sure.
Nige
Senior Member
Why would anyone take the supply for a backup camera from the fuel pump when there are spare (unused) fuses in the fuse box for exactly that putpose.?
All of these had 14V When at idle with cab up testing volts. I am unable to see power to any fuse but could be doing it wrong. Horn does work. Ac blower does work and I believe they run through the fuse box. Sorry for so much confusion. & thank you for your ongoing help. The grey box is hooked to fuel pump and to a backup camera. I do not know why it's hooked that away
Attachments
Nige
Senior Member
Power for the horn siwtch comes straight from the battery, not from the fuse box.
I'd suggest to go back to first principles. With the engine stopped, pull the 3 protective covers inside the red area of the first photo. You should find a large terminal stud under each one. Do you have battery voltage on all of them.?
Disconnect the two 2-pin connectors inside the blue area. Turn on the key but don't start the engine. Do you have battery voltage measured between the yellow wire and the black wire on the half of the connector with the wires on it.? If you do, turn off the key and reconnect everything.
Go to the second photo. Pop off the cover in the red circle and a 2nd cover (arrowed) that is almost out of shot on the left side. Again you should find a terminal stud underneath each cover. Turn on the key. Do you have battery voltage at those two terminals.? If so then you have power to your fuse box.
ok, so we have battery power to the first picture and to the second picture.. to the relay side and to the fuse side. Then tested power to the fuses and they did have battery voltage as well. I then jumped to the L.H. joystick and tested pink wire at which it did have battery voltage too. I ran out of time but that is what I got done today. Again thank you for your patience and mechanical advice. Also Battery is just a couple months old, good voltage and very clean posts.
Mr. Nige, I think we might be getting somewhere. Just a recap. Battery is good, chargings system is good, all fuses are good, all relays beside fuses are good. When I lift the cab and All of the covered red big wires that are bolted on with red cover are getting battery power and the two seperate plugs that have the yellow wire and black wire are getting battery power. The wires in back of machine are hooked to the lifter pump and runs a back up camera and I dont think it has anything to do with locked system. I have gone to the l.h. joystick and with key on I do not believe it is getting power as I checked the pink and the black with key on . I am going back out there to reverify that is what I got. I have the two different forms from the above post to test the joysticks. Just wanted to let you know and if there are any tips at this point. thank you as always
and how do I differentiate from active codes and old thrown codes.. which screen or what is shown on screen to let me know thats its active or just old recorded code.
Nige
Senior Member
Go back to Page 1, Post #19, where I posted an attachment showing how to use the Monitor Panel to access Diagnostic Codes and Events. Here is what's found where: -
Service Mode 1. Active Diagnostic Codes.
Service Mode 2. Logged (old) Diagnostic Codes.
Service Mode 3. Active Events.
Service Mode 4. Logged Events.
Mr. Nige, I went about a week ago and checked power to the l.h. joystick with pink and black wire. If I was doing it correctly and probes were reaching inside of connector correctly then there is no power to the joystick. I kept it plugged together, probes in , turned key on and nothing. I then took ground probe out of black and went directly to ground frame and still nothing. Is there any tip from here you can give. I am reading notes from pages I printed off from what you sent me , starting to get confused . Thank you as always for your patience and helpful advise.
Nige
Senior Member
That sounds as though you were doing it right.
If you have no power on the C126 pink wire at the joystick end you need to go back to the top half of the fuse box, fuse A4. That is the other end of the same C126 wire.
Do you have 12v measured between the outlet side of the fuse (red arrow) and machine frame ground.?
While you are in there it might pay you to make sure there is power at the input side of the fuse (blue arrow).
Both of the tests above are done with the key ON.
ih100
Senior Member
Just to throw in, in case I’ve missed it, but have you checked the park brake/hydraulic lock switch is okay?
Nige, as ever, you’re a diamond for the support you give people on here.
Nige, as ever, you’re a diamond for the support you give people on here.
We checked the parking brake switch, but when you say hydraulic lock switch are you talking about the switch a person pushes to turn off brake or another switch. We tested the one you push to turn off brake and was ok
ih100
Senior Member
No Paul, same switch does both.