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Cat 299D - 723-8 Error Code - Engine position Sensor - Abnormal Frequency - Pulse Width or Period

uglyguy

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Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Messages
92
Location
midwest
Does the parking brake warning light go off when you press the switch.?
No the warning light stays on


Could it be...
- Seat switch,
- Armrest Switch
- Door switch.
- Joy Stick-
- Faulty Parking Brake Switch


Events leading up to the Parking Brake Failure

April 9th - Code 723-2 - Engine Speed Sensor #2 Alarm
- I could run the machine, but ever 15-30 minutes parking brake would come on and stopping machine - I could shut machine off and then restart and cat would work until 15-30 minutes later parking brake would comeback on. Seemed like I could run longer if I ran the RPMS higher...

April 25th - Code E878-3 - High Hydraulic Oil Temp Alarm - Took machine back to shop to power wash and clean radiator - Switched Cam and crank sensors Hooked up new attachment and then it started throwing code 723-8. drove it 10-15 minutes and fuel pump went out - took me a while to figure out it was my fuel pump. I would start the machine, and it would cavitate like I had a hydraulic leak. I tried to limp back to shop, and eventually, I figured out it was the fuel pump.
Note: Parking brake came on several times during the 15 minute of driving.

April 30th Installed New Fuel Pump
- Engine started back up and parking brake would not release. Tried this 3-4 times until eventually, the engine would not start at all and parking brake would just stay on. Now Throwing 636-8 Engine Position Sensor Code. --- Also now showing Fault on RPM Gauge

May 3 - Repaired connections on Cam Sensor wires. Connection - Cut, stripped, soldered wires 1/4" away from connector, plugged it back in. Engine Starts, but parking brake won't release. Still throwing 636-8 Engine Position Sensor Code. Swapped crank sensor and cam sensor and Engine would not turn over and parking brake still wont release. Switched sensors back and Engine will start, but parking brake still won't release.
 

Nige

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Could it be...
- Seat switch,
- Armrest Switch
- Door switch.
- Joy Stick-
- Faulty Parking Brake Switch
On the face of it - no.
The reason being that any type of malfunction of the 5 components you mention would generate its own Diagnostic Code (or Codes).
Seat Switch - CID1190
Armrest Switch - CID1628
Door Switch - CID2471
Joystick - could be any of CID2474/75/76/77
Park brake switch - CID0070
 

Nige

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Still throwing 636-8 Engine Position Sensor Code. Swapped crank sensor and cam sensor and Engine would not turn over and parking brake still wont release. Switched sensors back and Engine will start, but parking brake still won't release.
If you still have the 636-8 Code then on the face of it the sensor/wiring relating to the cam sensor is still a problem. See my earlier somment regarding the engine wiring harness. Anecdotal information here on HEF is that failure of that particular harness is not an unkown phenomenon.
 

uglyguy

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Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Messages
92
Location
midwest
Update

Never could understand why the active codes where not showing up on my Active Screen, in the last few weeks. The Active screen would be blank and the logged screen would show the old codes, but not the active code that would be displayed at start up. The Active Screen has been Blank this past few weeks.

I just rebooted the Monitor and now it is showing the following codes as active

636-8 - Engine Position Sensor - Abnormal Frequency Pulse Width or Period (Yellow)
190-2 - ACU - Engine Speed Sensor Data Eratic Intermittent or incorrect (Green)
3700-3 - Machine - Loader Bucket Voltage Above Normal (Green)
 
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uglyguy

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Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Messages
92
Location
midwest
If you still have the 636-8 Code then on the face of it the sensor/wiring relating to the cam sensor is still a problem. See my earlier somment regarding the engine wiring harness. Anecdotal information here on HEF is that failure of that particular harness is not an unkown phenomenon.

Nigel,
The attached pictures #1 &#2 for reference for the Cam Sensor (for me and others). It is a Denso, Japan 3 pin connector. (I need to find a place that I can purchase the connectors and pins. I have the tools to install the pins - see 3rd attachment.

I agree that the issue is still the sensor/wiring relating to the cam sensor. so, I need to find the pins or new connectors.

I also wanted to note,
1) The bolt hole on the upper Cam Sensor plastic bracket is cracked.
2) The threaded bolt hole in the engine block on the lower Crank Sensor, appears stripped. the bolt holds the sensor in tight, but if you tighten it up, it will slip. Just wanted to mention this, in case this could be a concern.

 

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Nige

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Reading your post #22 above with the timeline of Codes, action taken, etc, I've cherry-picked your text and my comments are as follows: -

April 9th - "Code 723-2 - Engine Speed Sensor #2."

April 25th - "Took machine back to shop to power wash and clean radiator - Switched Cam and crank sensors. Hooked up new attachment and then it started throwing code 723-8." 723-2 (Data Erratic, Intermittent, or Incorrect ) and 723-8 (Abnormal Frequency, Pulse Width, or Period) are pretty much the same thing. The ECM is receiving "inconsistent data" from the sensor in other words. The troubleshooting procedure for both is the same one I posted earlier. Interesting to note that the Code stayed on the same sensor despite the fact the sensors were physically switched. This gives the impression that the sensors might not be the issue.

Getting water into the sensor connectors from the pressure washing could be related to this.


April 30th - "Now Throwing 636-8 Engine Position Sensor Code. - Also now showing "Fault" on RPM Gauge." Confirmed that the RPM signal is taken from the camshaft position sensor. A dodgy signal will cause no RPM reading on the display.

May 3 - "Engine Starts, but parking brake won't release. Still throwing 636-8 Engine Position Sensor Code. Swapped crank sensor and cam sensor and Engine would not turn over and parking brake still wont release. Switched sensors back and Engine will start, but parking brake still won't release." So by my count you have switched sensors 3 times. Once on Arpil 25 and twice on May 3. Is that correct.? If it is then it appears as though they are still in the "wrong" holes from where they were before all this kicked off prior to April 9.

My suggestions: -

1. Unplug both main ECM wiring connectors J1 & J2 plus both speed sensors and test the following wires on the engine wiring harness for continuity between the engine ECM and the 3-pin connectors on the sensors. Y733 Purple, 993 Yellow, & 997 Orange (crankshaft sensor) and 709 Orange, J864 Grey, & F732 Pink (camshaft sensor). Testing the resistance using a multimeter is NOT recommended. Instead make a temporary connection from one end of a particular wire to machine frame ground and apply battery+ voltage to the other end via a 5A test light. The reason for this is simple. A wire that is damaged internally and "hanging on by a thread" without showing any external damage may pass a DMM resistance test but it won't pass 5A.

2. Give the male/female connectors of the ECM and both sensors a good dose of aerosol contact cleaner and dry with compressed air before reassembling.
 
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uglyguy

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2010
Messages
92
Location
midwest
Reading your post #22 above with the timeline of Codes, action taken, etc, I've cherry-picked your text and my comments are as follows: -

April 9th - "Code 723-2 - Engine Speed Sensor #2."

April 25th - "Took machine back to shop to power wash and clean radiator - Switched Cam and crank sensors. Hooked up new attachment and then it started throwing code 723-8." 723-2 (Data Erratic, Intermittent, or Incorrect ) and 723-8 (Abnormal Frequency, Pulse Width, or Period) are pretty much the same thing. The ECM is receiving "inconsistent data" from the sensor in other words. The troubleshooting procedure for both is the same one I posted earlier. Interesting to note that the Code stayed on the same sensor despite the fact the sensors were physically switched. This gives the impression that the sensors might not be the issue.

Getting water into the sensor connectors from the pressure washing could be related to this.


April 30th - "Now Throwing 636-8 Engine Position Sensor Code. - Also now showing "Fault" on RPM Gauge." Confirmed that the RPM signal is taken from the camshaft position sensor. A dodgy signal will cause no RPM reading on the display.

May 3 - "Engine Starts, but parking brake won't release. Still throwing 636-8 Engine Position Sensor Code. Swapped crank sensor and cam sensor and Engine would not turn over and parking brake still wont release. Switched sensors back and Engine will start, but parking brake still won't release." So by my count you have switched sensors 3 times. Once on Arpil 25 and twice on May 3. Is that correct.? If it is then it appears as though they are still in the "wrong" holes from where they were before all this kicked off prior to April 9.

My suggestions: -

1. Unplug both main ECM wiring connectors J1 & J2 plus both speed sensors and test the following wires on the engine wiring harness for continuity between the engine ECM and the 3-pin connectors on the sensors. Y733 Purple, 993 Yellow, & 997 Orange (crankshaft sensor) and 709 Orange, J864 Grey, & F732 Pink (camshaft sensor). Testing the resistance using a multimeter is NOT recommended. Instead make a temporary connection from one end of a particular wire to machine frame ground and apply battery+ voltage to the other end via a 5A test light. The reason for this is simple. A wire that is damaged internally and "hanging on by a thread" without showing any external damage may pass a DMM resistance test but it won't pass 5A.

2. Give the male/female connectors of the ECM and both sensors a good dose of aerosol contact cleaner and dry with compressed air before reassembling.

Nigel,
Yes, the Sensors have been switched at least 3 times in the past month.

I will do the above testing on Monday, when I have some additional help. I

Any suggestions, on why the parking brake will not release. I had read on a another which had a similar issue on a 299, and it is seemed like replacing two sets of wire harnesses from the right side speed sensor, may have solved the issue.



Thanks again!
 

Nige

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Any suggestions, on why the parking brake will not release. I had read on a another which had a similar issue on a 299, and it is seemed like replacing two sets of wire harnesses from the right side speed sensor, may have solved the issue.
I remember that one, but the symptoms were different AND once the owner updated to the same Advanced LCD panel that you already have- it had Codes for joystick/speed sensors (can't remember which offhand) - You don't.

Quote - I can move about 6 inches and then the parking light comes on and it won't move anymore. If I restart it, the same thing happens." - Unquote.
 

ozarkag

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Apr 25, 2018
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ozarks
For these sensor plugs try ballengermotorsports.com Probably have to match up by number of terminals (2) brand, (denso) and images.
 

Tree Mulcher

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Apr 15, 2023
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64
Location
Central Florida
For the sensor plugs consider a complete engine harness. Last one I changed was something like less than $150 and may fix your problem any way with a new harness. This only changes half the connector though
 

uglyguy

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midwest
Attached are pictures of the plug for sensor -

Denso​

 

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uglyguy

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Dimension of sensor plug -

Denso​

 

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uglyguy

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Pictures of pin for sensor plug (Stamped E 14) Approx 5/8" Long
 

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uglyguy

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Pictures of pin for sensor plug (Stamped E 14) Approx 5/8" Long
Approx Diameter Width - 5/64" or 1.42mm
Approx Length - 5/8" or 16.50 mm Length

I believe the part number is

Manufacturer: Sumitomo
8240-0182 TS Series (Female)

Manufacturer: Sumitomo
8230-4878 TS Series (Male)
 

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Nige

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For the sensor plugs consider a complete engine harness. Last one I changed was something like less than $150 and may fix your problem any way with a new harness. This only changes half the connector though
Did you consider this suggestion.? With reference to the "other half" of the connector that's on the sensor anyway. So if you replace a sensor you get that half.
 

uglyguy

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Did you consider this suggestion.? With reference to the "other half" of the connector that's on the sensor anyway. So if you replace a sensor you get that half.
Nigel,
I'm not sure where to purchase an aftermarket harness, and I was thinking the Cat harness was about $1000. Also I would need to figure out how to install the harness and secure it to the engine. Cat must run the wires before the engine is installed.
 
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