Welder Dave
Senior Member
You might want to see how far back you can get the track adjuster. If the tracks are pretty slack it might be easier to take them off and put back on than pounding the master pin in and out.
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Cat 931C SN 2BJ00191
- Thread starter ksliger
- Start date
We are going to try that first this weekend and then switch to the master pin if that doesn't work.
OK, I've spent some time going over this machine, and it seems pretty decent. I'm going to replace the top roller on both sides when I break the track to work on the track adjuster seals. Other than that, the undercarriage is pretty solid. The transmission and brakes\clutches seem to be fine. It has wet brakes, thankfully.
The biggest issue it has is blow by (pic below shows some smoke coming from tube). There is a fair amount of smoke coming from the vent tube and out of the oil fill tube, when the cap is removed. It's not the worst I have ever seen, but it's annoying enough that I wouldn't want to run it too long and inhale those fumes, and I don't really want to bother with rerouting the tube as I have seen others do. So, I would like to do some minimal level of in-frame in the coming months. I need input from smart people who have experience with this scenario. Ideally, I would like to replace pistons and rings with a 3-ring option, but I don't want to bore for oversize. I would love to get away with just sticking with OEM bore size and honing cylinder walls in-frame. This machine is on a farm and will have very little use, so I am not looking to spend a lot of money. Assuming the cylinder walls are not badly gouged or out of spec, does my plan pass muster? If so, are there good options, such as IPD, for 3-ring pistons and rings that are OEM spec? Or, should I just go with actual OEM parts for this scenario?
Thanks in advance for any feedback or advice!
The biggest issue it has is blow by (pic below shows some smoke coming from tube). There is a fair amount of smoke coming from the vent tube and out of the oil fill tube, when the cap is removed. It's not the worst I have ever seen, but it's annoying enough that I wouldn't want to run it too long and inhale those fumes, and I don't really want to bother with rerouting the tube as I have seen others do. So, I would like to do some minimal level of in-frame in the coming months. I need input from smart people who have experience with this scenario. Ideally, I would like to replace pistons and rings with a 3-ring option, but I don't want to bore for oversize. I would love to get away with just sticking with OEM bore size and honing cylinder walls in-frame. This machine is on a farm and will have very little use, so I am not looking to spend a lot of money. Assuming the cylinder walls are not badly gouged or out of spec, does my plan pass muster? If so, are there good options, such as IPD, for 3-ring pistons and rings that are OEM spec? Or, should I just go with actual OEM parts for this scenario?
Thanks in advance for any feedback or advice!
pittsburgh cat man
Senior Member
I think I would clean the breather and give it a good run and see how it is
Yes sir, that's one of the first things I did. Also, new air filters and new precleaner (old bowl disintegrated). It made little to no difference.
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pittsburgh cat man
Senior Member
does it have a working hour meter just wondering how many hours on it
Funny you should ask. It has a digital one that wasn't working. I got it working today and the hours were zero'd out. I guess because it didn't have power for a long time. I am guessing it's on the second pair or chains, because the pads look original to me and are in decent condition. The set of chains on it now have plenty of life, I would guess 75%. I would guestimate somewhere north of 6000 hours. What do you think?
pittsburgh cat man
Senior Member
I would think you are in the ball park
If it's around 6000 hours, do you think I can get away with doing an in frame and going with new oem spec pistons, rings, and honing, assuming there is no damage to cylinder walls or out of spec?
Welder Dave
Senior Member
The 3204 came with 2 ring pistons and are known for blow-by. Some have said it's not even worth doing a blow-by test. It might be wasted money to replace the pistons until you know how much oil it's using and the overall condition of the engine. There's nothing wrong with boring the cylinders if it's done right. Even if the cylinders are good, I think an in-frame rebuild would be next to impossible. You can't remove the oil pan for one thing. If you're doing the pistons you might as well check everything else while it's apart. If it 's not using much oil/smoking and has power I'd just run it. Excessive idling is bad for a 3204! Run it hard and see how it performs.
Thanks for the feedback. I was under the impression that the oil pan could be dropped while in frame. If not, this project might just have to wait a little longer.
Welder Dave
Senior Member
The track cross member is in the way. Engine and trans. have to come out together too. Weigh about 1700lbs.
That machine is looking nice!
Others have mentioned unbolting the crossbar (pic attached) that runs right under the oil pan, and then jacking up the machine to have enough clearance to remove the oil pan and do an in-frame overhaul. Can anyone confirm if they have successfully done this? I took a look today, and it seems feasible.
pittsburgh cat man
Senior Member
I think you would be much farther ahead pulling the engine block it up oil pan down pull the head then stand it up on flywheel housing to remove pan and do your pistons and cylinders it will be a lot less aggravation a lot easier on you body and probably quicker and you can probably do a better job of cleaning
Welder Dave
Senior Member
The loader frame makes it real a PIA. Not that much more work to pull engine and trans. together. Following the Cat procedure helps immensely!
Ive done it eithet way one loaders and dozers dont really make a difference to me
FYI, the master pin didn't seem to want to budge, so we were able to push the idler all the way in, and with enough slack in the track, we were able to pull it off to the side far enough that we could then move the idler forward far enough to replace the track adjuster seals.
Nige
Senior Member
See my Post #14 on Page 1.