Cat 955K track removal

[Iron Dinosaur]

Right side final drive is completely dead, track does not engage, move, or lock, and rolls free when pushed hard enough, so there is some bad stuff happening inside. I'm pretty sure this started before I had the machine; seal failed, water got in, etc. So, where I am right now is figuring out how to remove the track, so I can get at the drive sprocket and pop that off. I was trying to locate the force to punch out a track pin in the service manual, but it doesn't seem to be in there. The book says it has a master, but I don't think the track chain is original. I know some kind of pin press is required to do this, I want to know what the rating needs to be. Anything the old iron masters can share will be greatly appreciated. I don't know the exact year of the machine, my S/N is 85J3811. I think that is early 70's but it's a guess.

 

[Nige]

How did you come to the conclusion it's a final drive.? Have you drained the oil to look for metal.?
It could just as easily be in the bevel gear or steering clutches based on your description of the problem.

I know some kind of pin press is required to do this, I want to know what the rating needs to be.

Probably around 70-100 tons.

I don't know the exact year of the machine, my S/N is 85J3811.

You don't need to know the year. The Serial Number tells all when it comes to parts & service information.

 

[Iron Dinosaur]

I think it's the final drive due to the checks I did a few months back after an earlier thread. I pulled the magnet strainer at that time, and it looked brand new, so the clutches can't be shredded. Also, the leak in the drive seal is really bad, the final drive reservoir is literally filled with dirt and silt; there is zero oil in there. If I jumped too many steps ahead of myself here, please advise, I am listening. I am NOT looking forward to the course of action I was describing above.

Thank you for the info on the track pin press.

 

[OzDozer]

Iron Dinosaur - Post some photos of the track chain and final drive, so we can ID what you've got, and what you're facing.

The master pin is usually identified by a sizeable but shallow hole drilled into it - unless you have the "alligator style" bolted master link that is a later design.
You can see the zig-zag pattern in the links where they join, if you have this style.
The alligator style master link removes the need to drive out a master pin.

Master pins can be driven out with a large sledgehammer and drift, but you need to be pretty fit, and also have a couple of helpers!
The important part of setting up for master pin driving out with a sledgehammer is to ensure the track is solidly blocked, so that the impact of hammer hits is not absorbed by track deflection.

Many people claim the best position for hammering out a master pin is at the idler - I always found a better hammer-driving position was at the sprocket - because the sprocket doesn't deflect as much as the idler. You still need to support the master links at the rear with a solid support or bucking bar.

You may be able to hire a portable track pin press in your area if you're not too remote. You usually need a small crane to support the portable track pin press, they aren't exactly a lightweight device!

First step (besides photos) is to fully clean down the track frame area (remove all track cover guards, shovel off all dirt, and pressure wash) - and allow enough working area around the tractor to have room for the track to come off and spread out.

If you have a tractor front end loader or something similar, these can also be useful to assist in track removal and replacement.
You'll need lifting equipment or a helper to remove the heavy final drive housing. An impact wrench speeds up bolt removal on the housing bolts.

Once the track is off, the track frame needs to be unbolted at the outer hub and at the cap on the inner track frame diagonal brace bearing - and the tractor must then be jacked up and solidly blocked so the final drive can come off

The job is not rocket science, it's just that you have to familiarise yourself with the procedures and ensure you have at least one helper, because everything is heavy.
A 955K master pin shouldn't need any more than about 40 - 50 tons of pressure to remove, unless it is exceptionally corroded.

A S/N of 85J3811 makes your tractor a 1971 model.

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[Dave Neubert]

first you need to locate the master pin it should have a dimple on the end of pin . I usually burn out the pin about 1 1/2 in on both sides then knock the pin out if not you better have a 20 lb hammer and a lot of wind. You will need to have access to a CAT press to pop off sprocket about 70 ton of force and you will need the press to press sprocket back on you can not get the sprocket on tight enough with out the press

 

[Iron Dinosaur]

 

[tctractors]

That little pimple is not the Master pin so look some more, 1 pin will be different to the others you just have to find it, also the track frame is a Bear to get off as it is all bolted solid, some of the bolts will take some shifting and there is also the chance of a welder being used as bolt/s snapped off in the past, the thoughts of Hiring a Track pin press from some place scares me a good bit as I have 3 sets and would not let them leave my sight, things go wrong fast and without experience of this work you would be advised to keep yourself safe and go the Heat and Beat route, to get the F/Drive stripped down can be tricky but I see people getting all sorts of Junk hooked together to pull the rim, but they struggle to press the rim back together, then you will be going into the steering case to remove the top pinion so the fun never ends, all this brings on the Cold Sweat when you start hunting down parts, I do this for my living and have all the CAT tooling so understand the bumpy path you are now starting out on and wish you the Best of Luck, keep yourself safe and use good timber to crib things up, a handy tip is to remove the bucket and lift the loader frame right up and fit a safety strut on the hoist cylinder.

 

[Iron Dinosaur]

Thanks all for feedback so far. If I have to go that route, does anyone know how to locate a good independent heavy equipment mechanic, for pin pressing or sprocket removal? I know they exist, but not how to find them. On account of what I paid for this machine (not a lot), it would almost be a crime not to see this whole thing through, even if there are some "challenges."

 

[OzDozer]

The track pin directly in front of the one sitting on the carrier roller, appears to me, to be the master pin.

 

[tctractors]

Still check all the pins on both tracks as you might be splitting both chains, off a photo it is hard to tell clearly.

 

[charles walton]

Thanks all for feedback so far. If I have to go that route, does anyone know how to locate a good independent heavy equipment mechanic, for pin pressing or sprocket removal? I know they exist, but not how to find them. On account of what I paid for this machine (not a lot), it would almost be a crime not to see this whole thing through, even if there are some "challenges."

There's a good chance that the sprocket will slide right off once you get there and you may need a new hub and or sprocket to get it to press back tightly. I had to put a new hub on my 941b and I built a press to assemble it with.