Chevrolet C60 1973

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Picked up a new to me Chevy C60 dump truck built in 1973. The only issue I see with the truck is the driver side king pin is worn and has chewed up the tire really bad. I went to napa and a few other parts stores and they only thing they can find is for a 1980 C60. I checked ebay real quick and the same. Anyone have a part number? I would like to get both sides done so I don't need to bother with the rest.

Also, (dodge guy here) is there some way to tell what motor I have? The rocker gaskets are leaking and would like to change them out.

 

[fast_st]

I suppose you could pull it apart and see if the parts match the napa parts. else any respectable truck repair place should be able to help.

 

[CatToy]

If the motor is original, the VIN will tell you the motor installed at the factory. Do a quick web search on Chevy C60 trucks vin and you should find a "decoder". Several motors were used those trucks, if gas more likely a 366 (but could be a 427 or 350). The 366 and 427s are big-blocks and are about 4 inches longer than the small-block in length, about 5 inches wider and 6 inches taller in deck height.

Here is a link that might work... http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/73-91VIN/1973truck.pdf

 

[bannerd]

If the motor is original, the VIN will tell you the motor installed at the factory. Do a quick web search on Chevy C60 trucks vin and you should find a "decoder". Several motors were used those trucks, if gas more likely a 366 (but could be a 427 or 350). The 366 and 427s are big-blocks and are about 4 inches longer than the small-block in length, about 5 inches wider and 6 inches taller in deck height.

Here is a link that might work... http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/techinfo/73-91VIN/1973truck.pdf

My vin is; cce613v118636

Says just a V8 gas.

 

[bvfdfire]

73 gas v8 would have been either 350 md or 366 truck, could have been 427 tall deck, but most likely not. Easiest way to tell the 350 and the 366 apart is count the valve cover bolts, 350 has smaller valve covers and only 4 bolts side. 366 or 427 are big blocks and will have large rectangular covers and 8 bolts side. 350 md was a standard deck block with steel crank and pink rods from the factory. probably have .010 cast in the lower block web. 366 and 427 are both big blocks, both tall decks, but the 366 has smaller bore and cannot be up bored to make a 427. cylinder walls will not stand the oversize.

 

[bannerd]

73 gas v8 would have been either 350 md or 366 truck, could have been 427 tall deck, but most likely not. Easiest way to tell the 350 and the 366 apart is count the valve cover bolts, 350 has smaller valve covers and only 4 bolts side. 366 or 427 are big blocks and will have large rectangular covers and 8 bolts side. 350 md was a standard deck block with steel crank and pink rods from the factory. probably have .010 cast in the lower block web. 366 and 427 are both big blocks, both tall decks, but the 366 has smaller bore and cannot be up bored to make a 427. cylinder walls will not stand the oversize.

Thanks, I think it's a 350. On the valve cover I have 4 bolts on the bottom and three on the top(towards the carb).

 

[OFF]

Thanks, I think it's a 350. On the valve cover I have 4 bolts on the bottom and three on the top(towards the carb).

366 or 427 then. The 350's only have 4 bolts total on the valve cover. Most likely a 366.

 

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Heres a picture

 

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I just put a new alternator in.. but I don't think that bracket goes like that. I'll have to ger a service manual.

 

[tuney443]

bannard--there is 2 different engine identifying tags on your big block to see if it's a 366 or a 427. The one on the rear is the better of the 2 but usually the hardest to see easily while in the chassis. It will have raised digits and is up high just above the highest part of your bell housing. I've used play dough to push down on it to read it. The other place is on the front of the engine, pass. side, just below the head on a ''shelf''. That one is imprinted, tread lightly while cleaning it, I use a soft brass type brush, then hit it with some Brakeleen. Get one or both and you can then google what you have.

 

[bannerd]

bannard--there is 2 different engine identifying tags on your big block to see if it's a 366 or a 427. The one on the rear is the better of the 2 but usually the hardest to see easily while in the chassis. It will have raised digits and is up high just above the highest part of your bell housing. I've used play dough to push down on it to read it. The other place is on the front of the engine, pass. side, just below the head on a ''shelf''. That one is imprinted, tread lightly while cleaning it, I use a soft brass type brush, then hit it with some Brakeleen. Get one or both and you can then google what you have.

Thanks, I'll check it out.

 

[Willie B]

I went through the whole process 10 years ago with my '76 C65. Did a ton of research to confirm which engine. None of the serial number solutions worked. The Truck big block was 3/8" taller than a standard big block. This gave room for an extra oil control ring. Mine proved to be a 366. At 48000 miles it ran like a sick sled dog. Timing was erratic. I had a couple real mechanics attempt to set the timing. It seemed to wander. One suggested the timing chain/gears might be worn out. Find a better engine. So called experts assured me any GM big block would fit. I bought a rebuilt 454, and was disappointed to learn that it in no way was going to fit. My engine rebuilder found a 427 block, and used all the other parts from the 366. When we were about to install the old distributor in the fresh engine my friend stood absent mindedly holding the distributor. He, a devoted Ford man, noticed too much free motion in the distributor, and discovered a broken locator stud inside. The motor was ranging an extra 8 degrees on timing.

Too late to turn back, I went forward with the 427 install. I have a 366 block with 48000 miles if anybody needs one. My builder described the 366 as; "When they are running REAL nice, they have just enough power to pull a sick whore off a pi$s pot."

Willie